(posted this in knots, but figured people here might have different thoughts)
I’ve been considering getting a drill press.
but don’t know what to look for.
I don’t mean brand
but things like should I get an 8″ or a 14″ or ?
how big should the motor be
those types of things
I know, what will I use it for.
don’t know for sure but was hopeing to get some general recommendations on what to consider.
home use (not commercial) building/making things for the house
TIA
bobl Volo, non valeo
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Replies
A radial drill press: where the power head can rotate to drill holes at an angle.
multiple speeds.
freestanding >>> larger capacity.
Just a few ideers off the top of my head.
Mr T
Do not try this at home!
I am an Experienced Professional!
Remodeling Lead Carpenter w/ 20 years exp.
+ A Construction Engineering Degree
Located in Elmira, NY
thought about this .. researched it... wound up with a 10" multi-speed ( move the belt).. tilt table.. rack & pinion....
small enough to pick up and move.. big enough for most of our uses... wound up with a delta on sale for $99Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
15/16" floor model.
Large tilt table w/ up - down hand crank and able to accept jigs and hold downs.
Cold molasses slow to warp speed.
Foot pedal on and off..
6" at least of quill travel.
1/2 HP at rock bottom minimum. 3/4 or 1 HP prefered.
Tilt head.
Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish....
it depends on how much money you want to spend. I got one of those harbor freight tawian knock off. and it does great for what ever I need. Only recomendation I can offer is floor model over bench model. And find one with the belt pully system. That way if you want to increase to a bigger motor, it easy.
6" at least of quill travel.
that is the most important aspect mentioned, esp. if you are going to have a lot of quick jobs with different length bits.
I think the foot petal is most important.... Major safty feature...
Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish....
Worked as a machinist. I agree,
Quill travel is important. I hate having to lock the quill and use the table to raise the work into the bit. It also makes changing bits, if your going deep, more of a pain.
I don't think actual motor size is that important. I used a Bridgeport vertical mill that had a 3/4 HP motor. Larger bits need to be run more slowly so they gain a mechanical advantage. 1/2HP should be fine. If you find a unit with more more HP fine but I wouldn't pay much more for the privilege.
Strong, preferably oversized, industrial grade bearings. If you ever plan to do any light milling, by adding a cross-feed vice and a cutter, you need good bearings as the forces will be lateral to the normal direction.
Possibly the deciding factor is the frame and structure. A good solid unit has a heavy and rigid frame that absorbs vibration and allows precision work to be done. It also greatly effects the general perception of strength and quality. A cheaper unit may not fall apart but head to table flex, wobble and vibration makes for a harder job and a lack of confidence in the machine.
"oversized, industrial grade bearings"
You bet, that's the second most important, double row ball at least, or (only ever saw it once on anything I could afford, an old oliver) opposing tapered roller bearings with preload and adjustable zero backlash rack) bearing to prevent the dreaded "quill drop" which, esp. on something like 4340 steel, can snap the bit "like that" unless you got belt slippage. On wood it causes splintering which wont happen with a sharp bit/backup and no quill drop.
This could turn into a real thread?
It's interesting how some topics can bring near consensus:
- if I was buying a small drill press (14-16" - 1/3-1/2 hp), no question I'd go for a radial,
- free standing (you'll need that size eventually)
- 3/4- 1 hp is better
- make sure that it accepts a standard taper (MT2 or MT3) or you'll be up to your armpits in adaptors.
- I have a 20" / 1 hp drill with 1/2" and 3/4" chucks / 10 speeds / auxillary wood-working table c/w fence - love it.
Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright
Unionville, Ontario
Bobl,
Just my 2 cents.
A positive vertical depth stop. Way too many have the rotary style that almost always slips.
Beyond that, bigger everything is always better....and ****the ability to some how tram the spindle axis to the table
Jon
If you do almost exclusively wood, I would go for the radial arm drill press (I have a Delta). They are fairly low powered and not terribly rigid, however, so aren't great for doing 3/4" holes through 1" steel plate...
If you do a lot of steel, then go for at least a 3/4 hp bench or floor model standard drill press. I have been through a number of retirement/bankruptcy sales at small/medium sized job shops and I am always surprised how many of them have cheap Taiwan/Chinese floor model drill presses rather than the big old Rockwells or Deltas that I would expect. (of course, maybe that is why they went bankrupt or had to retire...)
I had (actually still have the pieces) a Taiwan 3/4 hp floor drill press from the '70s. The casting broke so that the head would no longer stay attached to the upright. I could never get the arbor/chuck completely trued. I think they are much better now than then but if possible and I was going to get a lower end Chinese drill press, I would want to check it out first or at least have the right to keep bringing it back until I got one that was right.
I got this Jet and couldn't be happier. I can't imagine having a smaller or larger unit - I've used all of its capabilities but haven't been wanting more.
Mine came with a mortising kit - either I put it on wrong or it's just not very good, but I haven't had time to explore it more yet.
The manual when I got it (~4 years ago) wasn't very good at explaining how to adjust the belts; not too hard to figure out but come back here if you get one and save yourself the hour. :)
I'll second that Jet model. I've had one for about 5 years and have used it for some pretty serious stuff including drilling 3/4 inch holes through big steel c-channels. The travel of the quill is definitely important but I've never seen one with 6 inches of travel. 5 years ago, the Jet model I have was at the top (I think) with 4-7/8" of travel. The external stop (with double nuts) is also a must if you do much mortising or blind hole drilling. I don't know if you can get that kind of stop on a benchtop.
Regarding the radial drill presses, they're pretty slick but limiting yourself to only those will greatly reduce your choices. Also, I think most of those are on the smaller side unless you get into real expensive industrial models. You can drill holes at angles with practically any drill press because the tables on most models tilt.
One other person mentioned price which is really what it comes down to. A $99 drill press is better than none at all but the $300-$400 floor standing ones should do anything you'll ever need.
I have a Delta like this one:
http://www.mytoolstore.com/delta/17-900.html
Looks like it's about $315. I like it for the most part. Doesn't have a light, but I rigged one up. It's done some pretty heavy drilling and mortising, and hasn't ever grunted a bit. I'm glad I got it instead of a table top model.
I do wish it had one more slower speed. The slowest one is 250 RPM - Too fast for drilling big holes in steel.
.
Looks like now they make a 16 speed model:
http://www.mytoolstore.com/delta/17-965.html
It has a slow speed of 215 RPM. Better, but still not slow enough. And it's $370 - $55 more than the 12 speed.
.
If ya got lots of bucks to throw around, they have a variable speed model:
http://www.mytoolstore.com/delta/17-925.html
It's about $1,000 though. Too rich for my blood.
Then there was the old politician who went to see his doctor. He complained he was having to dodge issues he used to sidestep easily.