OK… got my big bag o’ ipe plugs, big box o’ deck screws, and a big stack of ipe to screw down on the deck. My two questions are:
Any good drilling tools that will predrill the pilot hole AND drill the 3/8″ hole for the plug at the same time? Current setup (doing the first few stair treads) is one drill with a 3/8″ forstner bit, another with a 9/64 twist drill, and then the impact driver for the screws. Combining the first two into one would make it quicker. I have a set of Makita predrill/countersink bits that are totally ineffective in ipe.
Then… what’s the glue of choice for gluing the plugs? My fallback position is epoxy, but I’d sure love to use Titebond II or III if someone out there can vouch for it.
Replies
I use tapered bit w/ the set screwed countersink offered by McFeely ( did I get that name right? ) If you dull the bit slide a new one in there
for the plugs I like Gorilla cuz it expands and fills the voids and sands extremely well ( as does the plug )
if there is a water view from the deck put your blinders on and enjoy it after you've plugged
The Kreg stepped bit oughtta do it for the decking only, NOT the pilot for the joist.
TB III is what I'd choose for the glue, it don't take much. AND really caliper them plugs, they are gonna vary a LOT I bet.
Gimmea reminder an Ill check the OD of a stepped bit..I seem to think it was a tad under .375..and the pilot was .200
What is the screw yer using?
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
" Do not add to the world's confusion, by speaking in unclear terms"
Dave, Here is the bit...the pilot is about .165, the counter bore is .375
The battery just went TU in my calipre, but you can see the pilot is onlt about .375 as well.
This is the Kreg bit, HSS, leaves a flat bottom hole, do not use bugle head screws, they'll sit proud or split the Ipe.
And the plugs might not be set deep enough for the glue to do anything, ya want a good 1/4 for the final plug thickness if possible.
sorry its fuzzy
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
" Do not add to the world's confusion, by speaking in unclear terms"
David,
Here's the kind of setup we used for laid teak boat decks, also made by fuller. avoid the really cheap versions. I think fuller might even have them in carbide, a thought if you are doing a large deck of ipe.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=32309&cat=1,180,42240
HAve fun,
Kit
I tried the combination bits, and they didn't survive the ipe for long, so switched to a carbide tipped brad-point for the counter-bore and did two operations. Use Gorilla glue because that was Pro-Deck's advice, and it worked well.
Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright
Unionville, Ontario
What we like to use are the Dewalt countersinks. We only leave enough of the pilot sticking out to penetrate the ipe and not into the joist more than 3/8" or so. You really have to muscle them into the wood to get a good depth for the plug.
Here are some pics of us screwin off a couple of weeks ago.
When you get to the album, and click on each pic, look right and click View>Original Size, to enlarge the image.
http://www.hpphoto.com/servlet/com.hp.HPGuestLogin?username=joe_wood&password=20421079
Thanks for the replies. The predrill/countersinks I have are like the Lee Valley ones and don't work worth a dam... the ipe gets do impacted into the cutting flutes that it's useless. I will check out the dimensions on the Kreg bit I have, but I think it's more than 3/8" diameter.
When you get sick of the "Plug and Screw" check out http://www.EBTY.com