I am about to drill a hole in my foundation wall for a pipe pass thru. was told to try and keep them 4 to 8 inches from all edges. if I locate the holes at spot number 1 in the attached photo then I can have a shut-off valve above ground. if I go with location 2 then the pipe will come out right at grade. Is there any reason I can’t bring the pipe thru right under the sill plate? all the load is in compression and I will cement or epoxy in a piece of 2 inch galvanized pipe into the hole for the pass-thru. I’m pretty sure the load-path will not be affected. the only thing I can think of is maybe I hit a bolt that holds the sill plate to the foundation. I am in earthquake country. are there any other problems that I’m not aware of?
thanks for all the help
Replies
Spot no.2 is where you should be locating the hole. At spot no.1 you will weaken the load bearding capacity of the wall which is raised above the running stilth
I don't have an answer to your question but how exactly are you going to create the holes, hammer drill?
yes hammer drill with a 2" dia boring bit.
We're talking rotary hammer, right? Like an SDS or SDS+ rotohammer? Not one of those regular drills that is meant for wood but has a hammer function. Those are ok for drilling in Tapcons at best, and I don't think you'd even be able to attach a coring bit to one.
yes Bosche SDS Max
Spot #2 is the way to go. Elbow up and install valve at height of location #1. The 8" rule is so you have enough material to maintain integrity.
Drill using a hole saw, not a hammer drill.
Install a sleeve through which your pipe routes through.
They make sleeve gaskets to seal between the sleeve and pipe. Size sleeve accordingly.
Frankie
not sure how to elbow up and install the valve. if I did that then I would have to elbow right back down. the pipe comes out and then goes below grade for irrigation. wanted to put a valve between where it comes out the wall and goes below grade so I can shut it off if need be. got a civil engineer neighbor that says yeah its fine but I'm a little hesitant to drill a hole I'm my foundation either way. thanks for your thoughts
I was tired during last reply. I stated to use a holesaw. The proper tool/ term is core boring saw. Similar styles but core boring is for masonry. There are dry coring bits and wet coring bits. I like the wet ones - less dust. For small diameter hole (<2") I have used angle grinding tool with a 5/8" arbor. Pretty easy stuff. Bit will cost about $100+. Get one the length of the wall thickness.
Bore a hole below grade and bury the pipe. If you're in a cold weather climate, install shut-off assembly inside, with a drain valve. You can make/ buy a service/ junction box which is buried outside and can house valves or electrical connections.
Box is plastic and bottomless so if any water gets in, it drains out.Lid can be at grade.
Frankie
I know spot number 2 is preferred. but I guess what I'm asking is spot number 1 ok?
The reason you don't want to drill in spot #1 is that a crack there could take a big chunk of concrete right out of the wall while in spot #2 the crack would just be a crack.
Why not just go out through the existing opening above the other pipe? Or next to it?
I'm trying to close that up and keep rats, mice, and raccoons out. previous work just poked thru the screen that was there and made a mess of it.
You could close it up with something that would keep out the critters, and also be easier to route pipes through.