Replies

1. 
   RedfordHenry | Feb 06, 2008 05:28am | #1

   Are you adding newels, ballusters, or is this just an oak hand rail that you are attaching?  Industrial or commercial setting?  Need a little more info.

   Can't drill both steel and concrete with the same bit, at least not any that I've ever heard of.

   Welding some sort of steel tabs comes to mind as a possible alternate fastening method, but this is just a stab not knowing what the setting/details are.

   Can you tell us more.?

1. 
   thatman | Feb 06, 2008 06:54am | #5

   It is a commercial setting (old hospital built in 1960s) that has been turned into a college. I guess the best descripion for it is steel formed and then poured concrete. Im making it look like it was originally made out of oak. It is a three story stairwell that had allum. railing and we are going all the way up with wood. So Im fastening down a base piece 4 1/2" wide down and then building a railing tection and fastening it into that piece. All the steel posts are going to be wraped in oak as well and will be used as fastening also.

1. 
   pm22 | Feb 06, 2008 07:31am | #7

   Steel and concrete are a bad combination.* Concrete will grind the sharpness off a steel cutting bit in a jiffy and a concrete cutting bit won't do so well on steel. Nobody has mentioned powder driven nails so I'll mention them. Also epoxy?

   The cheapest steel cutting bits are those self-drilling sheetmetal screws. Best is 1/2" long for stability.

   Do you intend to use Tapcons or maybe an insert?

   *But not as bad as fruitcake.Note: a .50 caliber machine gun WILL work [on the steel and concrete at least].

   ~Peter

2. 
   RedfordHenry | Feb 06, 2008 04:36pm | #9

   Thanks for the description, it helps some, though a few pics would be really helpful.  For the purposes of the following suggestions, I'm assuming the existing railing is welded tubular steel.

   Just a few general thoughts for you to consider.  Someone mentioned power fasteners (Hilti, Ramset, or something comparable).  These would be perfect for anchoring wood cleats concrete walls/stairs to which you can begin fastening the railing system.  Also, consider welding strategically placed steel plates to which your final system can be bolted.  I did a bunch of woodwork on a steel boat once and we drilled and tapped a bunch of holes to receive bolts for various wood components.  Was slow going, relatively, but given your setting, this system needs to be unquestionably rock solid.

    

    

2. 
   plumbbill | Feb 06, 2008 06:34am | #2

   A rotohammer will drill through both, but it's LOUD, time consuming & bit life ends up being very short.

   I would buy a bunch of cheap HSS drill bits for the iron, then drill with a roto hammer.

   Some like hammer drills, but I would kill those in my line of work.

   “The world is a dangerous place, not because of those who do evil, but because of those who look on and do nothing.” —Albert Einstein
   

3. 
   Sphere | Feb 06, 2008 06:39am | #3

   Torch burn a hole possible, then go as normal in the crete?

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   "Success is not spontaneous combustion, you have to set yourself on Fire"

1. 
   thatman | Feb 06, 2008 06:46am | #4

   that may work. very interesting idea. thanks.

4. 
   USAnigel | Feb 06, 2008 07:03am | #6

   Bits from http://www.rodmanandcoinc.com/item.jhtml?UCIDs=1307321%7C1307323&PRID=1492961 should do the job.

   
   

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   Edited 2/5/2008 11:05 pm ET by USAnigel

5. 
   caseyr | Feb 06, 2008 07:36am | #8

   If you are going to be drilling a lot of holes in steel, if you have enough room around the area where you are drilling, AND you are feeling rich and want some new tool to play with; I would recommend getting a magnetic drill such as the Jancy, Haugen, or similar drill. My Jancy takes seconds to drill through steel plate that used to take me many minutes to drill through with my ol' trusty Hole Hawg - and with significantly more accuracy. On the down side, they do cost north of $500 and the cutters are a couple of times the price of a standard drill bit. However, the cutters also seem to last several times as long as a standard drill bit (for me "standard" is cobalt alloy drill bit).

   Just a thought for those who have lots of holes to drill, are impatient and who have a bit of tool lust...

   http://www.toolfetch.com/Category/Magnetic_Drills_Cutters/Magnetic_Drills/_page1.htm?per=25&sort=2&utm_source=Trafficleader&utm_medium=ppc&utm_campaign=Trafficleader

   
   

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   Edited 2/5/2008 11:37 pm ET by CaseyR

6. 
   Dunc1 | Feb 06, 2008 07:06pm | #10

   your friendly HD has a set of drill-all materials from Irwin. Limited sizes tho. Unused by me.