What are the codes for roof drip edge?. After removing hornets nest from gutter the only thing I see holding drip edge is what appears to be some kind of paper with adhesive strip holding it down. I don’t see any nails . I can basically fold up the drip edge like a flap and look at the roof sheathing. Is it supposed to be nailed or is there some new product that eliminates the need for nails. What am I missing here.
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Replies
You are missing asphalt and nails! Lol! It is supposed to have asphalt under it and roofing nails on top. You can at least buy tubes of roofing tar and squirt under it even if you can't nail it.
Using tar is an option I thought of as a quick fix.
I would recommend Loctite PL S30
Easier to work with and more durable than tar.
But doesn't meet code I don't think.
Where can I find code about drip edge without having to purchase a 600 page book. I'm curious to find out if code specs out anything about what is supposed to hold it in place. Galvanized nails, screws.
Building codes are public property so are usually posted online.
Our inspectors require a bitumen coating under the drip and roof nails staggered every 6 inches but we are in a very high wind zone.
1507.3.9 IRC
"In areas where the average daily temperature in January is 25°F (-4°C) or less or where there is a possibility of ice forming along the eaves causing a backup of water, the metal valley flashing underlayment shall be solid cemented to the roofing underlayment for slopes under seven units vertical in 12 units horizontal (58-percent slope) or self-adhering polymer-modified bitumen sheet shall be installed."
R905.2.8.5 Drip Edge. A drip edge shall be provided at eaves and gables of shingle roofs. Adjacent pieces of drip edge shall be overlapped a minimum of 2 inches (51 mm). Drip edges shall extend a minimum of 0.25 inch (6.4 mm) below the roof sheathing and extend up the roof deck a minimum of 2 inches (51 mm). Drip edges shall be mechanically fastened to the roof deck at a maximum of 12 inches (305 mm) on center with fasteners as specifi ed in Section R905.2.5. Underlayment shall be installed over the drip edge along eaves and under the drip edge on gables. Unless specifi ed differently by the shingle manufacturer, shingles are permitted to be fl ush with the drip edge.
That's good news to hear it's public knowledge right to know. I'm going to find out if the local code enforcement agencies have the right to make changes to the codes. Honestly, It's beyond me how work like this gets by. I can see the roof sheathing. Perfect conditions for pests , wood rot and mold.
Well, you got me going here. I've been over the drip edge codes everywhere I can find a reference but don't see any requirement for any kind of sealant under it. I could still be missing it but so far I can't find a reference to it. Not that code requirements matter to you in which case I would be using PL S30 as others have recommended. If you go up late on a hot day the shingles will be pliable enough that you can peel the top one up, drive a nail in and put a daub of PL on the nail.
I doubt your roof job was done by a pro or inspected. Probably a homeowner job.
And yes, local building departments and make changes to the IRC to fit local needs.
Wow, I am stumped and surprised. If true, what authority do local inspection agencies or municipality have over building codes. Suppose it's a new home. So basically if true they can take any shortcut they want. In that case don't nail the shingles. It's a strange world in construction.
Loctite PL S30 will be good
I wouldn't worry about a drip edge under shingles at the edge of the eaves trough. The roof is on a slope. Water will not easily run up a slope. Furthermore, the shingles bend naturally under their own weight into the troughs. Water will be even less likely to get back underneath to the roof surface. Water will naturally drip off the edge of the shingle into the trough.
Now a drip edge at the edge of the shingling....That's a different story. Some homes have them. Others don't. Sometimes a problem. Sometimes not. On most of this continent, the roofs are (wastefully) coming off every 20 years anyways. So what if you have to replace a bit of cheap ply at the time?
In considering the integrity of the roof, there are much more important things to worry about.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capillary_action
Drip edges can't be that important. Looked up the Code. Drip edges are not Code and NOT even mentioned in it, here in Ontario, Canada, and that is why in my 65 years I've never seen them. Even the Snow and Ice Shield along the eaves and rakes (for low slope roofs, over heated areas of the home only, etc, etc), that would largely negate the need for a drip edge, is a recent requirement. 30 years ago it was offered to me as a roofing upgrade.
In reading, and as I suspected, fascia board rot and roof rot, are mostly a problem with no, or insufficient, shingle overhang. (Coastal areas would get a lot of wind blown water-rot problems.) A lot of incorrect blame is being placed on the very minimal physical property of "capillary action", when in fact, roof and fascia board rot is due to poor installation.)
During my lifetime, I've cleaned my fair share of gutters. It's not a job that I relish. Can barely get my hand in a 5" gutter. --At least 2" of overhang. Always end up with cut hands. Please don't try to tell me that a drip edge is needed because the water wicks 2 inches up to the fascia and roof deck.
Hey! I like Loctite PL S30. Used for https://www.worktime.com/
Pulled these pics off the Internet. If this is the typical shingle overhang on homes in the U.S, of course you're going to get rot and you definitively need a drip edge. This, in no way, looks like the shingling overhang on my home or any other in Ontario.
That looks like another DIY job to me, it's certainly not typical of US roofing practices. It's got some sort of metal above the fascia but it isn't drip edge, it's the wrong stuff, and it doesn't turn up the eves. You can also see several older layers of shingles under the "new" roof. Very poor work anywhere. However, most places in the US require drip edge which works very well. I agree water doesn't wick up and the OP has no concerns with that. What he does need to be concerned about is the wind lifting the edge of his unsecured roof. I posted the revelant codes in #6.
We use a roofer I have know for decades. I used to work in commercial roofing and we used the company back then. One thing he share when we were looking at a property outside his service area was to make sure the company is certified with the brand of shingles you are using. This way they are trained to do install according to manufacturer specs. For example, the shingles we chose on our home requires them to be hand nailed and not with a power nailer or the warranty is void. The warranty also requires a complete tear off, which is a good thing IMHO. He also installed new drip edge along the gutters, etc. They carefully worked the channel behind the gutters, nailed to deck, paper and shingles. Everything is tight as a drum. See if you can work it behind the gutters. There should be just enough room. It is much easier without shingles on top. Try a putty knife.
Too many people jump on the roofing cement wagon and I can’t stand the stuff. When it gets hot, it melts. When it gets cold it cracks. And it seems to jump on you no matter how careful one is. My vote is for the Loctite as well.
Who wastes their money on a 20 year roof? Asphalt shingles last about five years less than their stated length. So a 20 lasts about 15 in our neck of the woods. The difference between a 30 year and 50 year shingle on our 2800 sq ft home was about $1800.00. It was just the difference in cost of shingles, rip off, new deck board allowance and installment were the same. At my age we will never put another roof on.
Who wastes money on a 20 year roof? New home builders and any homeowner planning to sell within 10 years.
My reference to roofs requiring replacement every 20 years was to a N.A. average.--perhaps a "30 year rated" roof.
I'm not aware of in-service field trials showing 40 year shingles actually lasting 35 years. Can you provide a link?
Their life span also depends on the slope of the roof, the direction it faces, etc. or do you just replace a part of the roof?
The drip edge shouldn’t be “behind the gutters”.
Around here insurance companies are refusing to insure houses with roofs over 20 years old.
Please share with us the brand you used that requires hand nailing, please?
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Are we understanding his question? The vertical surface of the drip edge, where it rolls onto the fascia, should not have nails. So yes, it would be normal to be able to "lift" that edge up and look at sheathing, right?
The nails should be on the top flange, under the shingles. Properly installed, you will not be able to lift the vertical flange without creasing, buckling or otherwise destroying the drip edge.
The OP was seemingly asking if the vertical face should be nailed, which is why I wanted to confirm we were all on same page.
No, he was asking about the top flange. He got the correct answers.
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