Replies

1. 
   MikeSmith | Apr 28, 2009 09:55pm | #1

    a picture  would  help... but  it  sounds  like  you  are  not  going  high  enough  with  your  flashing  scheme  to  avoid  a  leak

   i'd  be  srtipping  the  shingles  around  the  window  to  get  my  flashings  where  they  belong

   Mike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
1. 
   HockeyTom | Apr 28, 2009 10:33pm | #2

   I have attached a sketch. I can get a photo tonight. The shingles are stripped from the bottom all of the way up to 5 1/2 " above the window.

   
2. 
   rlrefalo | Apr 28, 2009 10:40pm | #3

   1. Shingles, cut to the correct length-thickness.

   2. Caulk the joint at the window, assuming a clad or vinyl window. For a wood window remove the brickmould and use 5/4 the width you want, with drip cap above.

   Rich

1. 
   YesMaam27577 | Apr 28, 2009 10:56pm | #4

   Caulking the joint at the top of the window, between the window and the shingles, will assure that water behind the shingles will be trapped, and will quickly rot the shingles. And make no mistake, there WILL be water behind the shingles.That's why a drip-cap flashing is needed in this instance. And IMO, it needs to extend at least as high as "higher than the bottom of the second course of shingles up from the window". At the tope edge of the window, this flashing is "z" bent, to everlap the top edge of the jamb or trim.That flashing will catch any water that gets between the vertical edges of the bottom course, and will direct that water back out to daylight.
   Politics is the antithesis of problem solving.

1. 
   rlrefalo | Apr 28, 2009 11:55pm | #5

   Agreed, I was talking about caulking between a clad window and a field applied casing. Always flashed above. Never caulking between siding and drip cap.

   Equally important but rarely addressed is the necessity of dams on the ends of drip cap when used with vertical siding.

1. 
   HockeyTom | Apr 29, 2009 12:40am | #6

   Thanks for the input. The windows are clad and flashing tape was used to seal the edges. So I believe that this is recommended:
   1. Insert a drip edge that will go approx 5 inches up under the shingles and then cut two layers of shingles that would normally be there and push them up under the top layer. Do I just nail these in from the face of the outside shingles?
   2. Install my 1 x 6 with another drip edge over the window
   3. Add dams at the ends of the drip edge which I guess are just thick beads of caulk?
   Thanks for the help. I am much better with interior work and I want to get this right so that I don't have problems down the road.

1. 
   MikeSmith | Apr 29, 2009 12:53am | #7

   you're trying to thief shingles in with only one coursei think it takes two minimum ... usually 3 to thief themMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

2. 
   jimAKAblue | Apr 30, 2009 06:36pm | #10

   What does "thief" mean in this context? Is that a typo?

3. 
   MikeSmith | Apr 30, 2009 10:21pm | #11

   when you're working around sidewall shingles, if you don't want to remove all the shingles all the way to the top and then start over at the bottom...
   you use a tool called a "shingle thief"which is about 24" long
   normally .. you break off two courses, then you start "thieving" the next course( noun + tool, using the tool = verb: to thief )the thief has a hook cutter on each side... you slip it up under the shingle , bang it sideways over the nail, and beat it down with a hammer to remove the concealed nailsnaturally, this takes about 3 courses just to have maneuvering room, it's labor intensive, so you always have to make a judgement about wether to thief or strip all the way to next horizontal stopMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

4. 
   jimAKAblue | May 01, 2009 06:44am | #12

   I see. The term comes from the tool.

   Could you use a long sawzall blade as the shingle theif? Of course, it would be attached to the sawzall. I like the long ones because I can bend them sideways and still get 6-8 " of cutting action.

5. 
   MikeSmith | May 01, 2009 01:15pm | #13

   on a 16" shingle, the top nails you have to get are about 12" to 13" above the butt of the bottom coursewith an 18" shingle they'll be slightly higher, so even a 12" sawzall will not really do the job and some times makes it worse because it jambs shingle fragments up to the top.. there is no "feel" with a sawzallyou're literally feel your way around with a shingle thief, kind of like picking a lockMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

6. 
   webted | Apr 29, 2009 02:40am | #8

   "3. Add dams at the ends of the drip edge which I guess are just thick beads of caulk?"No - you can cut and fold the sheet metal to make these. "Westcoast" posted a great guide to window flashing on rainscreen walls in this post:http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=117075.8it has a detail that shows how to clip and fold up the drip edge dam.-t

3. 
   Shep | Apr 29, 2009 04:43am | #9

   Its very unusual to use 1x for exterior trim. 5/4 is much more common.

   Plus shingles with a 5-1/2" reveal will stick out past the face of the 1x. Use 5/4.

1. 
   Pelipeth | May 01, 2009 01:25pm | #14

   In the past few yrs., maybe 10, much to my surprise builders have been using 1X as exterior window casing. It does give a 1/4 inch reveal past the beveled siding. Found this out on assuming the caseing was 5/4, was changing the pine for Azek and had a house full delivered (5/4). Had to reorder for the 1X. Also have been finding interior SR returns with wood casing and sills, once painted semi-gloss or gloss whose to know.