At junkhound’s suggestion I’m breaking my list of roofing questions down a bit. This set is on drip edge. My fiance and some of his friends and I are going to reroof our garage, which is in generally crappy condition so we don’t want to spend a lot of money. It’s a simple gable roof, 2.5:12 slope, exposed rafters, with a curb on the front rake.
We want to apply standard 3-tab shingles (over a double-thickness #30 felt underlayment, as per GAF instructions for low slope roofs). The shingle instructions say to put the metal drip edge under the roofing felt at the eave, and over it along the rake.
– There’s a huge variety of metal roof edgings at Home Depot. Is there any guideline for which one to use? We were thinking about the 1.5″ wide L-shaped pieces that come in 10-foot lengths. I think it might be aluminum.
– Do we need a drip edge on the front rake if there’s a curb?
– Do nails penetrate through the drip edge OK?
– Do we need any kind of adhesive or sealant between drip edge and plywood, drip edge and roofing felt, or drip edge and shingles?
Thanks,
Rebeccah
Replies
We nail drip edges through the felt into the plywood. Shingles go on top of this. No adhesive needed. I don't know what a "curb" is. If is what I think it is we call them rain diverters. That is for personal opinion. If it were my garage and they were installed on the roof above the garage doors, I would use them. Keeps water from screaming down on you as you go into the garage.
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Edited 1/15/2007 1:36 am ET by Jarhead
Here's a photo of the garage.http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=84033.10Rebeccah
tear it down
Likewise. Tear it down.
Chuck S
live, work, build, ...better with wood
why would you want to waste your time .big waste of time and money
---
why would you want to waste your time .big waste of time and money
---Time: We have some, we enjoy building things (my fiance is an artist and I'm a retired orthopaedist AKA bone carpenter), and this is something we haven't done. In short, it's fun. The weather is supposed to be good all week and I have vacation this week.Money: This is the least expensive option that leaves us with a structure that is standing and sheds water.We're doing some structural work at the same time, more than the minimum I was willing to commit to because we do have the time and the weather is cooperating.Waste: I am aware that this is not Fine Homebuilding. I have to be selective what work I hire out to people who know what they are doing and have a good reputation, making space in the budget for a quality job -- and what jobs we hack through ourselves with some help from our friends. This is one of the latter.Rebeccah
Not picking on you, just curious - and it really is none of my business, but - How do you get to have a weeks vacation when you are already retired?I get it - workeing on this is a vacation from being retired, you are back to work again.;)
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
I left orthopaedic surgery after 5 years in solo private practice in central Illinois. Why is complicated, but the bottom line is I don't fit in with other physicians all that well, and I stressed out and didn't delegate well as a business owner. It just wasn't a good fit. I moved to the SF Bay area to a software company and have been doing Java programming for the last 6 years. So I've gone from being self-employed with a C corporation to being someone else's employee. I also went from small clique-y town to a more consmopolitan environment filled with activities and people I enjoy, and loosened up enough to meet and fall in love with a member of the opposite sex. He's everything I'm not, and appreciates what I am.Rebeccah
soooooo.... rebeccah.. have you & kalim thought about Mt. Tremblant for your honeymoon ?
supposed to be quite the place in August
anyways... non illigitimi carborundum... carpe diem , etc....
and there's always..." roofing as therapy"Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
--- Likewise. Tear it down. ---That issue's already been addressed. We need it and we can't afford to replace it. It stays.Rebeccah
You got enough decking on the edge to attach the drip edge to?
--- You got enough decking on the edge to attach the drip edge to? ---We will. We've stripped off the roofing and the rotten sheathing from around the edges. We're in the middle of patching the sheathing with plywood and then we're going to overlay with another layer of plywood to smooth it out.Rebeccah
Put the drip edge on before you put the tar paper on. I put it on with the same stapler I use for the paper. It will get nails through it when you shingle it.
On your eaves be sure to put a starter shingle (shingle cut in half lengths) on first then start your courses of shingles.
Good idea about stapling. I knew about the starter course. Thanks.Rebeccah
If this is that garage that is readay to fall down, get the cheapest you can find or do without.
Metal drip edge should always go under the shingles.
On that curb - I saw that in earlier photo and wondered why in the world it is there. I think it would be easier to remove it than to deal with special flashing situations for it.
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Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
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Edited 1/15/2007 6:03 am ET by Piffin
It's a nit, but on the eave the drip molding should go under the tar paper, on the gable ends the edge molding should go on top of the tar paper.
Let's not confuse the issue with facts!
--- It's a nit, but on the eave the drip molding should go under the tar paper, on the gable ends the edge molding should go on top of the tar paper. ---Thanks. I did see that on the shingle instructions, so it's good to have it confirmed.Rebeccah
OK, firing another shot in the drip edge war... I always install the felt first and then the drip second, even on the eaves. On the rakes, if you put the drip first, wind-blown rain could be forced under the felt to the wood decking. The drip edge on top holds the felt tight to the deck and any rain under pressure will be driven to the top side of the felt. I also would run a thin, continuos bead of sealant down the drip edge as I shingled the edge up, if the rake edge faced the prevailing winds. DO NOT use cheap "tar-in-a-tube"!! It will bleed oils in the heat! I generally use a sealant just for this purpose made by OSI called RF-140, but I think any good quality, butyl or urethane caulk would do.( NO SILICONE! )
As far as the eaves, drip over the felt for the same reasons, plus the surface of the drip edge in a better surface to seal to than the felt. I know this seems to be wrong because the drip is bucking water, but shingles are a water-shedding system, and you will have two layers of shingles shedding water over the drip edge.. Cut the starter shingles so the sealant strip is is at the bottom edge of the drip edge as the shingle wrapper says. Just prior to nailing on the starters, apply dabs of sealant spaced about 3"-4" apart on the surface of the drip edge to seal down the starter course. If the rest of your roof is sealed down, it makes sense to seal the starters down too. I know a lot of the other roofers out there will say that my methods are too time consuming, but I feel that a little extra time spent during the installation avoids a lot of potential problems down the road!
getting a little too chatty...
Just curious, roofguy, what is the rationale for the traditional putting the dripedge under the tarpaper at the eaves? I understand your rationale for putting it over.Rebeccah
Generally roofing is done from the bottom up to shed water, which generally runs from the top down.
Me too, but on something like this one, I ain't going to make a point of arguing it.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
rebecca... you have 5 threads by my count... all about the same subject... your house & garage
everytime you start a new thread , you lose half your audience... ( or , at least, you lose me )
if you had kept things in one thread , then it's easy to reference back and pull things forward
and links are good .. but they are also distracting
i would think you should stick to thread number 3..... ( the one where you started yelling at the help )...
but hey, whadda i no ?
Mike,
You know more than most folks forgot.
Chuck S.
live, work, build, ...better with wood
Edited 1/16/2007 10:42 pm ET by stevent1
OK, you're clearly not in junkhound's corner on this issue. :)But I agree, I'll keep further garage posts to the "DIY after all" thread.The house is a separate issue, despite being also a roofing question. Rebeccah-- Da dah, dah. I've learned my lesson well. You know you... can't please everyone, so you've... got to please yourself....
She started on with all her Qs in one place and Junkhound told her to spread it out to gain audience. think we oughta take him out back in the alley?
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
no.. alleys are too tempting for junkhound.. he'll find something and start salvage
what you wanna do with him is lure him into a tea potty.. kill him with boredomMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore