FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

Drip edge questions

Rebeccah | Posted in General Discussion on January 15, 2007 08:27am

At junkhound’s suggestion I’m breaking my list of roofing questions down a bit. This set is on drip edge. My fiance and some of his friends and I are going to reroof our garage, which is in generally crappy condition so we don’t want to spend a lot of money. It’s a simple gable roof, 2.5:12 slope, exposed rafters, with a curb on the front rake.

We want to apply standard 3-tab shingles (over a double-thickness #30 felt underlayment, as per GAF instructions for low slope roofs). The shingle instructions say to put the metal drip edge under the roofing felt at the eave, and over it along the rake.

– There’s a huge variety of metal roof edgings at Home Depot. Is there any guideline for which one to use? We were thinking about the 1.5″ wide L-shaped pieces that come in 10-foot lengths. I think it might be aluminum.
– Do we need a drip edge on the front rake if there’s a curb?
– Do nails penetrate through the drip edge OK?
– Do we need any kind of adhesive or sealant between drip edge and plywood, drip edge and roofing felt, or drip edge and shingles?

Thanks,

Rebeccah

Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. User avater
    jarhead | Jan 15, 2007 09:27am | #1

    We nail drip edges through the felt into the plywood. Shingles go on top of this. No adhesive needed. I don't know what a "curb" is. If is what I think it is we call them rain diverters. That is for personal opinion. If it were my garage and they were installed on the roof above the garage doors, I would use them. Keeps water from screaming down on you as you go into the garage.

    Semper Fi

    "To be young and a conservative, you have no heart"

    "To be old and a liberal, you have no mind"

    Winston Churchill

    "Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference. The Marines don't have that problem."
    PRESIDENT RONALD REAGAN, 1985



    Edited 1/15/2007 1:36 am ET by Jarhead

    1. Rebeccah | Jan 15, 2007 09:22pm | #4

      Here's a photo of the garage.http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=84033.10Rebeccah

      1. semple | Jan 17, 2007 03:42am | #6

        tear it down

        1. stevent1 | Jan 17, 2007 04:16am | #7

          Likewise. Tear it down.

           

          Chuck S

           live, work, build, ...better with wood

          1. semple | Jan 17, 2007 04:53am | #9

            why would you want to waste your time .big waste of time and money

          2. Rebeccah | Jan 17, 2007 05:22am | #13

            ---
            why would you want to waste your time .big waste of time and money

            ---Time: We have some, we enjoy building things (my fiance is an artist and I'm a retired orthopaedist AKA bone carpenter), and this is something we haven't done. In short, it's fun. The weather is supposed to be good all week and I have vacation this week.Money: This is the least expensive option that leaves us with a structure that is standing and sheds water.We're doing some structural work at the same time, more than the minimum I was willing to commit to because we do have the time and the weather is cooperating.Waste: I am aware that this is not Fine Homebuilding. I have to be selective what work I hire out to people who know what they are doing and have a good reputation, making space in the budget for a quality job -- and what jobs we hack through ourselves with some help from our friends. This is one of the latter.Rebeccah

          3. Piffin | Jan 18, 2007 01:36am | #21

            Not picking on you, just curious - and it really is none of my business, but - How do you get to have a weeks vacation when you are already retired?I get it - workeing on this is a vacation from being retired, you are back to work again.;)
             

             

            Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

          4. Rebeccah | Jan 18, 2007 06:37am | #25

            I left orthopaedic surgery after 5 years in solo private practice in central Illinois. Why is complicated, but the bottom line is I don't fit in with other physicians all that well, and I stressed out and didn't delegate well as a business owner. It just wasn't a good fit. I moved to the SF Bay area to a software company and have been doing Java programming for the last 6 years. So I've gone from being self-employed with a C corporation to being someone else's employee. I also went from small clique-y town to a more consmopolitan environment filled with activities and people I enjoy, and loosened up enough to meet and fall in love with a member of the opposite sex. He's everything I'm not, and appreciates what I am.Rebeccah

          5. MikeSmith | Jan 18, 2007 02:23pm | #26

            soooooo.... rebeccah.. have you & kalim thought about Mt. Tremblant for your honeymoon ?

            supposed to be quite the place in August

            anyways... non illigitimi carborundum... carpe diem ,  etc....

            and there's always..." roofing as therapy"Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

          6. Rebeccah | Jan 17, 2007 05:11am | #11

            --- Likewise. Tear it down. ---That issue's already been addressed. We need it and we can't afford to replace it. It stays.Rebeccah

      2. pickings | Jan 17, 2007 04:45am | #8

        You got enough decking on the edge to attach the drip edge to?

        1. Rebeccah | Jan 17, 2007 05:14am | #12

          --- You got enough decking on the edge to attach the drip edge to? ---We will. We've stripped off the roofing and the rotten sheathing from around the edges. We're in the middle of patching the sheathing with plywood and then we're going to overlay with another layer of plywood to smooth it out.Rebeccah

  2. Stilletto | Jan 15, 2007 01:56pm | #2

    Put the drip edge on before you put the tar paper on.  I put it on with the same stapler I use for the paper.  It will get nails through it when you shingle it. 

    On your eaves be sure to put a starter shingle (shingle cut in half lengths) on first then start your courses of shingles.   

     

     

    1. Rebeccah | Jan 15, 2007 09:23pm | #5

      Good idea about stapling. I knew about the starter course. Thanks.Rebeccah

  3. Piffin | Jan 15, 2007 02:01pm | #3

    If this is that garage that is readay to fall down, get the cheapest you can find or do without.
    Metal drip edge should always go under the shingles.
    On that curb - I saw that in earlier photo and wondered why in the world it is there. I think it would be easier to remove it than to deal with special flashing situations for it.

    Welcome to the
    Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
    where ...
    Excellence is its own reward!



    Edited 1/15/2007 6:03 am ET by Piffin

  4. User avater
    gdcarpenter | Jan 17, 2007 04:54am | #10

    It's a nit, but on the eave the drip molding should go under the tar paper, on the gable ends the edge molding should go on top of the tar paper.

    Let's not confuse the issue with facts!

    1. Rebeccah | Jan 17, 2007 05:23am | #14

      --- It's a nit, but on the eave the drip molding should go under the tar paper, on the gable ends the edge molding should go on top of the tar paper. ---Thanks. I did see that on the shingle instructions, so it's good to have it confirmed.Rebeccah

      1. roofguy | Jan 17, 2007 06:44pm | #18

        OK, firing another shot in the drip edge war... I always install the felt first and then the drip second, even on the eaves. On the rakes, if you put the drip first, wind-blown rain could be forced under the felt to the wood decking. The drip edge on top holds the felt tight to the deck and any rain under pressure will be driven to the top side of the felt. I also would run a thin, continuos bead of sealant down the drip edge as I shingled the edge up, if the rake edge faced the prevailing winds. DO NOT use cheap "tar-in-a-tube"!! It will bleed oils in the heat! I generally use a sealant just for this purpose made by OSI called RF-140, but I think any good quality, butyl or urethane caulk would do.( NO SILICONE! )

        As far as the eaves, drip over the felt for the same reasons, plus the surface of the drip edge in a better surface to seal to than the felt. I know this seems to be wrong because the drip is bucking water, but shingles are a water-shedding system, and you will have two layers of shingles shedding water over the drip edge.. Cut the starter shingles so the sealant strip is is at the bottom edge of the drip edge as the shingle wrapper says. Just prior to nailing on the starters, apply dabs of sealant spaced about 3"-4" apart on the surface of the drip edge to seal down the starter course. If the rest of your roof is sealed down, it makes sense to seal the starters down too.  I know a lot of the other roofers out there will say that my methods are too time consuming, but I feel that a little extra time spent during the installation avoids  a lot of potential problems down the road!

        getting a little too chatty... 

         

        1. Rebeccah | Jan 17, 2007 08:07pm | #19

          Just curious, roofguy, what is the rationale for the traditional putting the dripedge under the tarpaper at the eaves? I understand your rationale for putting it over.Rebeccah

          1. roofguy | Jan 17, 2007 08:33pm | #20

            Generally roofing is done from the bottom up to shed water, which generally runs from the top down. 

        2. Piffin | Jan 18, 2007 01:39am | #22

          Me too, but on something like this one, I ain't going to make a point of arguing it. 

           

          Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

  5. MikeSmith | Jan 17, 2007 06:11am | #15

    rebecca... you have 5 threads by my count... all about the same subject... your house & garage

    everytime you start a new thread , you lose half your audience... ( or , at least, you lose me )

    if you had kept things in one thread , then it's easy to reference back and pull things forward

    and links are good .. but they are also distracting

    i would think you should stick to thread number 3..... ( the one where you started yelling at the help )...

    but hey, whadda i no ?

    Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
    1. stevent1 | Jan 17, 2007 06:41am | #16

      Mike,

      You know more than most folks forgot.

      Chuck S.

      live, work, build, ...better with wood

      Edited 1/16/2007 10:42 pm ET by stevent1

    2. Rebeccah | Jan 17, 2007 09:08am | #17

      OK, you're clearly not in junkhound's corner on this issue. :)But I agree, I'll keep further garage posts to the "DIY after all" thread.The house is a separate issue, despite being also a roofing question. Rebeccah-- Da dah, dah. I've learned my lesson well. You know you... can't please everyone, so you've... got to please yourself....

    3. Piffin | Jan 18, 2007 01:41am | #23

      She started on with all her Qs in one place and Junkhound told her to spread it out to gain audience. think we oughta take him out back in the alley? 

       

      Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

      1. MikeSmith | Jan 18, 2007 02:57am | #24

        no.. alleys are too tempting for junkhound.. he'll find something and start salvage

        what you wanna do with him is  lure him into a tea  potty.. kill him with boredomMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Affordable Scans, Accurate Plans

Hover's smartphone app offers an easier way to get precise 3D scans.

Featured Video

A Modern California Home Wrapped in Rockwool Insulation for Energy Efficiency and Fire Resistance

The designer and builder of the 2018 Fine Homebuilding House detail why they chose mineral-wool batts and high-density boards for all of their insulation needs.

Related Stories

  • Affordable Scans, Accurate Plans
  • FHB Summit 2025 — Design, Build, Business
  • A Summer Retreat Preserved in the Catskill Mountains
  • Fine Homebuilding Issue #332 Online Highlights

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work
  • Issue 328 - Dec/Jan 2024
    • How a Pro Replaces Columns
    • Passive House 3.0
    • Tool Test: Compact Line Lasers
  • Issue 327 - November 2024
    • Repairing Damaged Walls and Ceilings
    • Plumbing Protection
    • Talking Shop

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data