Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 01, 2000 08:52pm | #1

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   Gary

   I'd start on a cool morning to unseal the shingles,it breaks free easyer when cool, then as the day heats up they become more flexable. You might then be able to bend them back far enough to remove the drip edge without breaking them.

   Go slow and be carefull.

   Vince

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 02, 2000 02:32am | #2

   *b TVMDCRather than risk breaking the shingles by lifting and nailing, you could try lifting them a little bit with a wide drywall knife and setting the edge metal with mastic. It would also be faster than nailing. Once the shingles lay back down on the drip, it would self seal.

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 02, 2000 01:19pm | #3

   *The sealdown strips will not affect you at all and you will NOT need to break their seal.Work from below the area---Not above.Lift the first shingle AND the starter course and inch or so and slide the DE in place.Since you are working from below you have a good angle which will allow you to lift the bottom edge of the shingle only an inch or 2 and still have plenty of room to get your nails in.This will be very,very quick and the shingles will not be damaged in any way.Working from above means that you will have to bend the shingles MUCH more and damage will occur.This will be really easy work for you and will take you less time to complete than I spent typing.Good Luck All,Stephen

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 04, 2000 03:17am | #4

   *also in addtion to what vince and steve said.. you shouldn't be bending the shingles enough to break them ..you've got to thumb your shingles..the nail is held in the first two fingers with the fleshy side up and the thumb holds the shingle up out of the way....this gives just enough room for the hammer to drive the nailb but hey, whadda i no ?

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 04, 2000 04:03am | #5

   *Maybe Gary is talking about retrofitting dripedge up the rakes.Gary?Eave drip is as easy to install as Stephen says. If for some reason it must be installed or replaced on a rake, usually you must pull nails with a flat bar, then slip the drip edge in and lift shingles to nail it in place. You only need to lift the corner of every secon or third shingle to do this. I have had to do this to replace damaged dripedge on rakes, but I can't think of a reason to retrofit it if it is not already there.Tom

2. 
   Gary_Scarborough | Jul 11, 2000 11:14pm | #6

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   Thanks for the feedback from everyone. Status report on the problem/project: At this time, I'm not going to retrofit the rakes with drip edge. I have retrofitted the drip edge by friction fitting it.

   After I got through tearing off the trim and re installingg it with everything caulked,back primeded and painted I don't even know if I needed to try to install drip edge on this job. The rotten wood seemed to come from a lack of forethought in terms of priming and painting on the original installation of the trim and a screwed up original joinstallingg the gutters-slope to drain didn't happen on the original job on 40+ feet ofuttering that had no slope in it!

   The original question remains. On this installation, I just slipped drip edge under the shingles, and let it be held by friction fit. They are architectural shingles, and stiff as the sickens even in the close to 100 degree afternoon heat. I've only got 3/4-1" max taxI can lift them- that's on the very front, it tapers to the rear. Mastic was a good idea, if you could lift them simultaneously to do it-you'd need about 10 hands like a Hindu God to do this. Given the nature of the previous problem, I'd like the drip edge removable. So...

   What I've considered and may do, is use a short deck screw, 1" grabber, addrabber small ratcheting phillips bit to drive it home into the roof decking.

   That's the limitations of my knowledge and experience.

   Thanks,

   Gary Scarborough

3. 
   Guest_ | Jul 12, 2000 04:04am | #7

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   gary.. friction fit never works on a roof.. neither does mastic... gravity or the wind eventually wins...

   you have to get some kind of mechanical fastener in ..

4. 
   P_C | Jul 12, 2000 06:41pm | #8

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   Guys,

   I am replacing the rook on my home (4/12 slope). I have budgetted for a 25 year Elk Prestique II or GAF Architectural grade shingle. Question; is it worth upgrading to a 30 or 40 year shingle (at $10 per square for the 30 and $20 per square for the 40). Also wanted to know how important drip edge is behind the gutters and along rakes. Both will be covered with Alcoa Aluminum.

   Thanks from a novice.

1. 
   Gary_Scarborough | Aug 11, 2000 06:39am | #9

   *For PC I don't have any answers for your questions. For Mike Smith, you're right. I managed to lift the shingles enough to fasten the drip edge with strategically placed deck screws (very short ones, ie 1"). We'll see if they win against wind and water over the long term, have done so in the short term. I'm betting they will in this application. Thanks for the help, the retrofit looks great. GS

1. 
   Ron_Seto | Aug 22, 2000 06:08am | #10

   *Gary, I saw a retrofit drip edge product at Lowes. It's made by Genoa, the same people that make the plastic gutters. Seems the drip edge (plastic), slides between the shingle and roof sheathing and barbs on the strip, hold it in place without nailing. I just tuned in to this thread. Hope I'm not too late with the reply.

5. 
   Gary_Scarborough | Aug 22, 2000 06:10am | #11

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   I have a job where I have to add drip edge to a perfectly good roof without damaging the existing shingles. The owners paid big $ a few years back to have a complete tear off. Somehow drip edge never made it on & now I'm having to remove the gutters and replace rotting trim on a 30 foot section. I'm also thinking about retrofitting drip edge on the rest of the house considering the damage done to this section.

   I've looked at the situation and replacing the trim and gutters is pretty straight forward. Replacing the drip edge didn't seem difficult until I tried lifting the shingles. They're architectural shingles & it looks like it would damage the shingles if I bent them back far enough to nail the drip edge on.

   I thought about nailing or screwing through the front of the drip edge and caulking the penetrations, but that doesn't seem too desirable. I don't want a call back for more rotting fascia. Anybody have an idea how to attach drip edge without causing harm to the shingles?

   Thanks for helping me puzzle this out,

   Gary ScaGrayough