Replies

1. 
   Mike_Mahan | Apr 05, 2013 12:35pm | #1

   Drill

   The only impact driver I own is my old 3/4 B&D and I think that would be over kill. I've used both corded and cordless variable clutch screw drivers on roofing screws. With newer cordless I can't think of why I'd use a corded again on a roof. Just set the clutch to pull the screws up tight enough but not too tight.

2. 
   BossHog | Apr 05, 2013 07:00pm | #2

   I don't like the noise of an impact driver. On a metal roof where you were driving a lot of them I think it would be even more annoying.

   I've never had trouble driving them with a cordless drill, so I think that's what I'll always stick with.

3. 
   DaveRicheson | Apr 05, 2013 08:34pm | #3

   Screw gun

   I use to build steel building years ago  Acres of roof so it was a corded screw gun with an adjustable nose piece (like drywall gun).  For small residential or ag type metal over wood framing a cordless drill is the way to go.  Use one wiyh a belt clip or use a monster hook to keep it handy.

4. 
   DanH | Apr 06, 2013 07:33am | #4

   Probably would have worked out well for Flashdance.

5. 
   oldhand | Apr 06, 2013 07:47am | #5

   try it...

   I have done more metal roofs than I can begin to count starting with lead heads and a hammer up to the present with an impact driver. The impacter is the definite tool of choice for speed and ease of use. The noise is no biggie and I have never had any issues with stripping. [ I also don't have problems with driving  #4 screws for drawer slides with an impacter, it's a simple tool to master.]

   The reason I'm asking is that I see most roof contractors use regular drill/drivers. Why do they not use impact drivers ? I have seen one of them strip the deck out with  whole rows of screws [they back out a few months down the line]  due to inept labor with a drill. 

   . 

   Putting aside the hazard of stripping is over torquing really a serious concern? I don't figure you can overcompress the neoprene gasket and dimpling/distortion of the metal should it occur is obvious.   What else could go wrong?

1. 
   Mike_Mahan | Apr 06, 2013 12:00pm | #6

   The thought of lead heads brings back fond memories of all the fingers of my left hand smashed. Young people don't know what they're missing.

1. 
   oldhand | Apr 06, 2013 04:24pm | #7

   fond memories...

   Back in the mid-paleo I had a job building poultry houses, like the 400' long models. By then lead heads were out and we were hammering the neoprene washered ring shanks, all day, as fast as possible. We were insulating with rigid foam as we went and had to nail to a 1.5" purlin you couldn't see.If you whacked a digit nobody said anything but if you missed the purlin you were told.

    First thing in the morn we would wrap our thumbs and first 2 fingers with duct tape, numerous layers with open joints at the knuckles. Made a big difference.

   Worst part was the ridge cap where you could be hammering through 4 layers of steel. I always got one side of that job and found the only way to stay ahead was to  flail that nail like you didn't care if you missed. 

2. 
   DaveRicheson | Apr 07, 2013 05:21am | #8

   Screws

   Over compressing the neprene washer is the most common cause of leaks in metal roofs.  

   Tighter is not always better.

1. 
   oldhand | Apr 07, 2013 09:05am | #9

   agreed

   But can you really compress neoprene with the thread pulling power of a screw? Seems like the screw would  strip out the deck first. I belabor this point because if it is possible to overcompress the washer you probably couldn't tell by looking.

   For sure you can over drive the screw sometimes to where the washer is distorted out of position and it will leak. But that error is easy to spot even as you work.

1. 
   DaveRicheson | Apr 08, 2013 07:22am | #10

   Over compression

   Yes, you can se the ones where the neoprene has been squashed out by over driving the screw or the ones that have pulled dimple in the metal.  The ones that are missed are the ones where the crown in the metal washer has been flattened out.  Most of the time that potential leak point won't show up right away.  It may take a few cycles of cold/hot weather to become a problem.

   My experience is whith large commercial roofs on structural steel buildings.  Acres of 22 or 24 ga steel roofs on wharehouse, factories, and office buildings.  I've only done a few light gauge steel roofs on wood framing but did notice that many guys  did the same thing i saw on commecial jobs.  They drive the screws to tight and the metal willtwist or break the neoprene washer as it expands and contracts over a  few years.

   I probably did the same thing when I first started , but after spending weeks/months going back on leaky commercial roofs I began to figure it out.  The normal one year labor warrenty doesn't mean squat when a large wharehouse or factory owner calls to say your leaky azz roof is ruining  $$ worth of product.  Fix it ! 

1. 
   oldhand | Apr 08, 2013 06:23pm | #11

   good answer..

   That's the science I been looking for,   the pulling the crown out of the screw part.

   I don't think I've done that and now look forward to go back and look at some old jobs I've done and look.