Replies

1. 
   dedhed6b | Feb 22, 2009 07:20am | #1

   Use a standard razor knife. On your perimeter cuts, cut them the same way you would a regular tile. Place it where it goes, score a light line with you razor knife and remove. cut along that line about half way through the tile,then cut along the edge to form a rabbet.

   "Shawdow boxing the appoclipse and wandering the land"
   Wier/Barlow
1. 
   larryscabnuts | Feb 22, 2009 07:24am | #2

   "ditto"

2. 
   JeffBuck | Feb 22, 2009 08:22am | #3

   you can buy a wood block with a utility knife blade set so it supposedly cuts the rabbit faster and more precise ... I have probably 3 of them somewhere in the back of the van ... but I always end up using my regular utility knife.

   sometimes if a helper just can't seem to control his knife, I switch him to the block and go for slower but better results, but I can do it faster and more precise with the regular old blade.

   btw ... both HD and Lowes sell the wood blocks ... and they may have a plastic version now ... they're back there by the tiles, come in a plastic bag with cardboard hanger/label. Fairly cheap.

   Jeff

       Buck Construction

    Artistry In Carpentry

        Pittsburgh Pa

3. 
   purplerays | Feb 22, 2009 04:17pm | #4

   I use one of the knives with a snap off blade.  I find that a regular utility knife blade isn't always long enough.  I also found that a nice, new, sharp blade keeps the face of the tiles from shredding, and showing the underneath.  I just finished 10 boxes of tiles in a doctors office.  Almost all the rooms were funny shapes, not a square or easy room in the place.  I learned a lot about tiles.

4. 
   BoJangles | Feb 22, 2009 04:48pm | #5

   I agree that the razor knife works best....but make sure you've got the Lennox super sharp & tough blades in it.  Those tile are hard on knife blades.

   I too have tried the guides with the blade it it, but it's much faster and just as easy to use the knife.

1. 
   calvin | Feb 22, 2009 05:17pm | #6

   Do you score along the wall mold and then bring the tile down to clear out the drop down?

   For a while now I've done the bottom of the rabbit scored freehand when I cut the tile to size.  Lay the tile in and then use the grid as the guide to finish the rabbit.  Lift up the tile a bit and clean off the debris, lay back down.  No removal to finish the cut.

   Commercial ceiling professional introduced me to the technique.

   Anyone else have a preference over tile brand?  I've had some crumbling problems with Armstrong-not so with USG.  Might have been some conditioning of the tile-but the most recent Armstrong was a pain no matter the sharpness or gauge of the knife.  Thinner too, 5/8's v. 3/4.A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   http://www.quittintime.com/

    

1. 
   BoJangles | Feb 22, 2009 08:57pm | #7

   I hate Armstrong tile for the reasons you describe.  Actually, what I do is keep a junk, lightweight table saw just outside the door where I'm working. 

   I just take a quick measure across the grid to see what the drop down needs to be and mark it lightly with a pencil and drywall square.  (I have an old one with a shortened leg for ceiling tile jobs.)  Visually add about 5/8", mark, and take it out to trim it on the table saw.  I usually trim 4 or 5 at a time. 

   Then I use the drywall square and knife to make the cut along the face about 5/16" deep and lay the knife on its side to make the side cut.  Zip,Zip you're done. 

   Then I slather on some white primer to cover the cut edge and hold the cheesy tile material together like glue, and set aside for a minute to dry while I'm working on the others.   Grab a bundle and pop them in....goes very fast once you get set up.

2. 
   JeffBuck | Feb 23, 2009 07:00am | #8

   a bottle of White Out makes for a nice tile chip repair.

    

   Jeff    Buck Construction

    Artistry In Carpentry

        Pittsburgh Pa