So general instructions are to mix 4 part sand, 1 part portland cement for a drypack mix. Didn’t say by volume or weight… Needless to say, while mixing it up, I was perplexed. Homedepot sells 60 lb. sandbags, and 94 lb. portland cement. I mixed 2 sandbags (120 lbs total) and 1/3 bag of portland cement (about 30 lbs). Did I do it right? I took left over mix and put in paper cup and once dried, tried to smash it and it held up pretty good. Suppose my mix is strong enough. My only worry is that the top of the shower floor is loose “sandy” surface and not the strong hard smooth surface I’m used to seeing on concrete. Is this OK? I suppose I will have to rub/grind down some loose surface to get to hard surface before I place Kerdi. Thoughts?
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I always played it safe and did a 3 to 1. That's the classic mix. I'm sure you're fine with a little more sand though
Check out the forum at http://www.JohnBridge.com. Do a search and you will find a ton of information over there about dry pack.
"I suppose I will have to rub/grind down some loose surface to get to hard surface before I place Kerdi. Thoughts?"
Nah. You'll be fine. The thinset stabilizes any surface "looseness". Also, I have found that you want the thinset under Kerdi to be a bit wetter than I normally use so it sticks to the Kerdi better.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
The mix is by volume. The materials don't weigh the same. Four shovels of sand to one shovel of cement.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Thats what I was thinking. I was too lazy to go to a weight chart to see how the numbers worked out.fka (formerly known as) blue
There can be a big difference in weight between a shovel full of wet sand compared to dry. Don't ask a mason tender any questions when he's shoveling, he might lose count. He probably doesn't have a scale, either. :-)Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
You did about a 3:1 mix by volume. Sand weighs about 120#/cubic foot and a sack of cement is one cubic foot. John Bridge recommends anywhere from 3:1 to 5:1. Your mix is stronger than most.
mixes are specified by dry weight, but the problem is that in real life, you never see dry aggregate, so everyone does it by volumn.
Yopu are fine with what you have if you packed it in hard.
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sandy is gooder ...
U don't want a smooth / shiney surface.
sounds like ya done good.
put it in dry ... dry enough to make mud "snow balls" outta ... so it doesn't stick to yer hands ... then pound the snot outta it till that little bit of moisture creeps up to the top.
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
Would be curious to hear about how your shower project goes. I'm considering using Kerdi when I rebuild a shower (part of a bathroom project I'm in the midst of). I've read much of the stuff put out by Schutler and the JohnBridge forum regarding the shower pan but still can't get my head around how those lapped joints can end up being water tight. Seems like overtime the joints would let water to work it's way through.
Anyone know how long Kerdi has been used for shower pans and if there have been problems? If so, I've not come across any word of such. Am curious though.
You done good. The sandy surface makes it easy to scrape down any imperfections, and the loose thinset on top will consolidate things just fine.
The mud bed is very strong in compression.
Billy