Replies

1. 
   JeffBuck | Nov 03, 2004 07:13pm | #1

   I use either bags of dry pack or masons mix.

   premixed.

   Jeff

2. 
   SamT | Nov 03, 2004 08:37pm | #2

   Your drypack wasn't dry enough.

   You want just barely enough water to moisten it to the point thatwith a paddle wheel miser the granules/clumps/bits on top look like grey crumb donut topping.

   If you squeeze a fist full real hard it does not stick to your hand at all, but still makes a firm enough ball to pick up without your fingers dimpling the ball.

   Make yourself a tamper from a 6" length of 2x4 and pound the bed down, After you've been over it 3 or 4 times, there should be no evident plasticity. In other words, when whacking the bed, it should not depress under the 2x4 nor raise the area next to it.

   I've used a 6:2:1 sand:cement:lime mix before with good results.

   Use very little water, as soon as you no longer see dry parts, that's enough.

   SamT

1. 
   Scooter1 | Nov 03, 2004 10:08pm | #3

   I never, ever use lime on my drypack, unless it is going on a verticle surface.

   First, I buy my drypack pre-bagged from DalTile. At $5 a bag, you can not go wrong.

   Second, if you want to, or have to, mix it yourself, then go with a 5-1 mix of sand to portland cement. No additives.

   Second, your mix was too rich, e.g., too much portland cement.Regards,

   Boris

   "Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934

3. 
   EricPaulson | Nov 03, 2004 10:30pm | #4

   Funny, I just did a mud floor today.

   I use Sackrete Green Bag sand mix. It is a way better product over what is sold at the boxes and hardware stores.

   I make it to be like you would want sand to be to build a sand castle. Holds together under compression, but is not sticky at all.

   I think your mix was too dry, or perhaps you did not pack it well enough.

   I remember as a journey man there was another tile setter in the area everyone called"crumbles" cause he couldn't set a mud job with out crumbles.

   I think the membrane is a good idea.

   Boris: shouldn't he be using fine sand?? 5 sand to 1 portland? Wow, I always thought that was stretching it a bit.

   Eric

   I Love A Hand That Meets My Own,

   With A Hold That Causes Some Sensation.

1. 
   kidder | Nov 03, 2004 11:47pm | #5

                  Thanks for your help. I think my mix was to wet and as Boris said, to much portland.  As I was mixing, I kept thinking, its not enough cement, maybe a little more. Anyway, its done now, except the crying. 

                  Saw your pictures, couldn't read the bubble on the level, but looked nice. You put down mesh, how thick was your mud? What is the minimum? Does mesh allow a thiner base? Do you seal natural stone tiles before you grout? Did I mention I was a carpenter, not a tile setter?

1. 
   EricPaulson | Nov 04, 2004 12:18am | #6

   >>As I was mixing, I kept thinking, its not enough cement, maybe a little more

   If that was the case, then you probably did exceed your 3:1 ratio.

   As far as I know, and methods differ, mesh is always used for a mud job, except in a shower base. Even galvanized mesh will rust, and in a shower, you risk these stains rising up into the stone or grout.

   This job, the floor was wacked; the house is (or parts of) possibly close to 200 yrs old. I started at the high point of the 6 x 6 ft floor with about 1 1/4" amd by the time I got to the lowest part it was well over 2" thick.

   I've done a bit of stone work and if it is not polished it should probably be sealed first. I recently did a 12 x 12 Slate floor. Grouting was a challenge, lots of wiping, change your water often.

   Hey, alot of carps slide over to the tile. It's a natural progression. Others do it and hate it and I've never seen a good job come from one of them. it's one of those things that's not hard to do, but real easy to screw up!

   EricI Love A Hand That Meets My Own,

   With A Hold That Causes Some Sensation.