Replies

1. 
   RichColumbus | Jul 30, 2004 07:25pm | #1

   That's a toughy.  I would be inclined to recommend a consult with a structural engineer (did I actually say that?).  He is going to be most familiar with products and loads. 

   Shouldn't cost a whole lot to get just the consult... maybe 2 hrs at a buck-fifty or a little more.  Would be well worth it over the long-haul.  Might save you a ton of heartache and big knots on your head... and save the HOs a lot of money; even after paying the engineer.

2. 
   jonblakemore | Jul 30, 2004 07:30pm | #2

   What was the cause of the rot?  Is it fixed now?  How much rot are we talking about?

   I think your best bet would be to sister framing members as needed.  Otherwise you could install another beam, but that might be difficult in such a small space.

    

   Jon Blakemore

3. 
   DanH | Jul 30, 2004 08:33pm | #3

   You have several options:

   - Dig out enough to allow new members to be installed via normal access.

   - Use shorter pieces and just sister the bad spots.

   - Knock holes in the outer wall to allow members to slide in.

   - Open up the floor for access.

   - Install piers to support the weakened members.

   - And probably a half-dozen more.

   In my (limited) experience, the rot is usually confined to the ends of the joists, and the plate where they rest. In smaller homes where the load is no big issue I've gotten away (so far) with opening up a small hole in the floor or side wall, then cutting out and replacing a section of the plate.

   Then cut back to sound wood on the joist end. If you're lucky then only the bottom edge of the joist is rotted and you can craft a wedge to fit in and take up the slack. Then sister the longest pieces you can manage on either side. (A power nailer really comes in handy here.)

   Of course, use treated wood throughout.

4. 
   ed2 | Jul 30, 2004 09:15pm | #4

   will be doing a hardwood floor in a house w similar problems after corrective work done   figured we'd go in mostly from up top thru scuttles cut thru subfloor, the long stock could be sent from underneath     adding piers and lallys and beef up beam,   plan to vapor barrier at the end, add blocking and patches to subfloor at scuttles    like the idea of structural engineer though, sounds like your job is worse underneath

5. 
   Dowdy | Jul 30, 2004 10:16pm | #5

   Thanks everyone, those are all options I have considered and was not looking forward to any of them.

   The rot is in small areas on some of the joists and some longer section on others. Don't really want to cut holes in the floor but may have to. House is all brick exterior with about three scuttle holes at the perimeter. So short pieces to fix some and piers/short pieces to fix others is the approach I am going to try. Will put in a exhaust fan to get rid of moisture and let it run on a timer and then put down visqueen at some point. 

   Thanks again for all your advise.

   Joe

1. 
   JohnSprung | Jul 31, 2004 01:56am | #9

   > those are all options I have considered and was not looking forward to any of them.

   I hear that.  My crawl space tapers down to about 8 - 10"  in the corner where the new kitchen will go.  My plan is to demo the entire subfloor in that room, and dig it standing up.  I've tried pushing 5 gallon buckets of dirt thru the crawl, and it's no fun. 

   I've had pretty good luck using a scrap of sheet steel as a sled, and with a rope and pulley rig for moving it, and for pulling a steel "I" beam thru the crawl.  Mount the pulley as high as possible to reduce the tendency of the nose of the item to dig in.

   -- J.S.

6. 
   Piffin | Jul 30, 2004 10:19pm | #6

   So, just what are these " signs of dry rot on the floor joists"?

   If it is technically true dryrot, sistering won't help much.

   A lot of what I see described that way is more weakened by powder post beetles than by fungal rot or mold

    

    

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1. 
   DanH | Jul 30, 2004 11:02pm | #7

   > So, just what are these " signs of dry rot on the floor joists"?

   When you end up in the crawl space without going through a scuttle hole.

   Actually, what I've dealt with is plain-jane rot, where moisture wicked up through the foundation.

2. 
   Dowdy | Jul 31, 2004 12:47am | #8

   From what I can tell at first glance, will know more next week, black areas on the joists that appears, by sticking a knife blade into, soft areas that are rotten. Did not see any signs, as of yet, that would indicate bugs....but who knows!!! Time will tell.

   Thanks fo the imput. - Joe