Customer needs the dryer vent relocated (existing run is too long). The ideal location puts it under a low profile deck (with no underneath access). Question: How would I attach the typical “vent hood” if there’s no access from outside? Get me? Normally a little square vent gets shoved in from the outside and screwed to the siding, then the duct gets clamped on from the inside, but the deck boards are nailed down and old. If I were to try to take up a deck board, it would get demolished, and a new one would really look different. Do they make dryer vents that can be installed from the interior?
Thanks …..Mike Micalizzi Contracting, Conn.
Replies
Not that I know of. Could you take up a few deck boards?
I think the first question to answer is "How did you plan to get the pipe to the exit position where the vent hood would be attached?"
Then, "What structural member will you be cutting the 4 1/4" hole in to accept the vent hood?"
Possible solution: Using rigid 4" pipe, make up the length needed to span the distance under the deck, attach the vent hood securely to the end, cut your access hole and shove the whole thing in from the outside. Screw off the hood to whatever and then go inside to make the connections on the other end.
If you have a bend to make under the deck to get to the interior destination it might take a little extra push and pull but the pipe needs to be completely made up and secure for this to work.
A larger access on the inside and a helper with a stick to guide the end of the pipe you are pushing.
Mike:
Last year I was faced with a dryer run which was too long, but I found a booster fan kit available which worked wonders:
http://www.fantech.net/dryer_boosting2.htm#1
It went in without a hitch and allowed a really long run (over 40 feet) without issue. The building inspector was impressed too. It draws minimal electric and was easy to install.
John
Hey!!!!
That's Cheating!
J. D. ReynoldsHome Improvements
If there's no access from below the deck, I'm going to assume that the vent termination won't be visible.
In this case, why not forego the typical termination cap.
From inside the house, drill your 4" hole. (This assumes a 4" dryer duct.) Your biggest concern will be making everything water tight and safe from the elements. Maybe use some short strips of self adhesive snow and ice shield. Reach through from inside the hole and adhere them around the outside starting from the bottom and working up over the top of the opening. Better yet....maybe a 6" X 6" square with a 3 3/4" diameter hole through the center? Slip that through the framing and adhere to the exterior.
Cut a straight piece of duct long enough to extend a few inches (4" to 6") beyond the exterior siding. Some chicken wire or galvy wire lath attached at the end of the duct will keep critters out.
One last preventive measure might be to slide the duct a tad further through the hole than it will be when done.......add a big fat bead of silicone around the pipe (as best you can from inside) before pulling it in to where you want it.
I think that might get you good and weathertight.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
Ideal location?
Sounds anything but ideal to me. Do you really want the call-back when the already-old decking caves in because of the rot caused by all that moisture under the boards and framing? Or when the deck boards cup badly because they are so wet underneath?
Find another location or use the booster fan.
And, by the way, an "ideal" location for any exhaust duct run would allow for it to drop three feet before exiting the building. That way cold air back-siphoning is eliminated, regardless of how well or poorly the vent hood flapper operates.
Solar & Super-Insulated Healthy Homes
Do you really want the call-back when the already-old decking caves in because of the rot caused by all that moisture under the boards and framing? Or when the deck boards cup badly because they are so wet underneath?
Most decks I've seen are built of moisture resistant materials, as they are exposed to the weather.
Dryer vent coming out below shouldn't cause any of the effects you're suggesting.
J. D. ReynoldsHome Improvements
Most decks I've seen are built of moisture resistant materials, as they are exposed to the weather.
If the deck is wood, PT or otherwise, it is anything but moisture resistant - as moisture is the number #1 cause of wood failure.
All woods absorb moisture and change dimension accordingly - PT is no exception. Any wooden deck that is sealed on top and exposed to excess moisture underneath will cup.
Continuous moisture where drying is impeded (such as under a ground-level deck) will cause problems over time.Riversong HouseWright
Design * * Build * * Renovate * * ConsultSolar & Super-Insulated Healthy Homes
Even if the deck was support was stainless steel so no quesitons of rot you are putting lots of moisture in a confined space. Most likely you would end up with all kinds of strange things growing under that deck.Bad idea..
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Thanks guys, I really appreciate the quick and insightfull sugestions.
The blower idea might be the best choice, I had a slight feeling that the dryer exhaust might cause a problem to the existing deck boards since they're already kind of old.
I've had one of those Fantech boosters in operation for 6+ years. Has worked flawlessly.http://grantlogan.net/
"Because I really want to live in a country where the poor people are fat. "- Unidentified Indian Immigrant when asked why he wants to come to America
again it comes down to cost
Check what a condensing dryer would cost compared to the work and materials involved. If the HO sells his old dryer that will offset the cost also. If the dryer is more than 10 years old it pays to take a close look in this situation
If the deck is that low it's probably a bad idea to vent underneath it. It will just cause premature damage to the framing and decking.
I've had this exact problem. I unscrewed a few boards and crawled underneath to do the outside work. If the boards aren't screwed, then you are, but I like the idea of working from the inside with mesh and whatnot. Sounds very DIY, but what the hell.