Replies

1. 
   calvin | Nov 27, 2004 11:34pm | #1

   Look at your literature with the dryer and do the elbow math.  If too long a run or if you just want more punch, Fantech offers a dryer booster fan.

   http://www.fantech.net/

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   Quittin' Time

1. 
   Don | Nov 28, 2004 07:07pm | #10

   Calvin: I second the motion about Fantech boosters. I had to install one becase I went straight up & had a couple 90 degree elbows. It is so quiet that we do not even know it is on. Makes the dryer move air like a small tornado. Wife can really tell a diference in how fast it dries clothing. Hasn't been in a year yet, so we do not know how well it does w/ lint. I suspect it is doing well - keeps the air velocity up so the stuff doesn't get stuck anywhere. It also makes a big difference if the joints all mate the proper direction - male points down range, w/ flow.DonThe GlassMasterworks - If it scratches, I etch it!

2. 
   Hubedube | Nov 28, 2004 01:29am | #2

    How many 90's will be in this 15 or 20 ft.  If only one, then no problem for a 4 " discharge.

3. 
   Hubedube | Nov 28, 2004 01:30am | #3

   BTW,do not use a booster fan. Danger!

1. 
   calvin | Nov 28, 2004 02:32am | #4

   Hube, did you read through this?  What do you think?

   http://www.fantech.net/dryer_boosting.htmRemodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   Quittin' Time

1. 
   Hubedube | Nov 28, 2004 07:32pm | #11

    Normally ,when EXITING air flow is increased,the INCOMING (make -up ) air is also increased. Therefore, IMO, this will create a  less warmer flow of air that is established over the heat coil, and again in my opinion creates a slightly longer drying time than the dryer,s original manufacturer intended.

   Example: If a furnace has too high an  fan air speed, the air is drawn in at a rate that's too fast for the heat exchanger to actually do a proper temperature rise as was intended by the manufacturer of the furnace. Therefore, a longer cycling time is necessary for the furnace to satisfy the T stat.

    On the dryer issue, the same logic applies. Too fast an air speed over the heat coil will increase the actual drying time.

   Therefore more power consumption...$$, not too mention the initial outlay of several dollars and labour to install this  'booster'.

    

1. 
   calvin | Nov 28, 2004 10:15pm | #12

   Taking in all the points you make and balancing them against the need for a booster because of length of run, what would you do?Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   Quittin' Time

1. 
   Greenman71 | Nov 28, 2004 11:55pm | #13

   I don't mean to change the subject, but since it's in th same area... How difficult is it to change the direction the vent comes out of the dryer unit? Right now the vent shoots directly out the back. I want to vent it on the left side (there is a punchout for a vent); but, after seeing the cover on the bottom, I thought I should seek advice before I opened a can of worms I might not want to get into.

2. 
   calvin | Nov 29, 2004 12:10am | #14

   Most that have a "knockout" will have a kit available at extra charge to convert the direction.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   Quittin' Time

3. 
   Greenman71 | Nov 29, 2004 12:26am | #15

   Thanks for the advice and the vocabulary lesson.

4. 
   calvin | Nov 29, 2004 01:51am | #18

   gman, I put the knockout in parenthesis because you'd probably collapse the side of the dryer if you tried to knock it out as you would one in an electrical box.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   Quittin' Time

5. 
   Mikey | Nov 29, 2004 03:03am | #19

   Where do people get makeup air for their dryers?  We're going to convert the "laundry area" in the garage to a formal laundry room, so the dryer will now get its makeup air from conditioned space (we're in FL), absent any modifications.  I like the idea of plumbing in makeup air from the outside -- has anyone done this, or do you think it's a silly idea?

   BTW, original builder exhausted the dryer about 1' from the AC outside (condenser) unit.  This is a very bad idea.

6. 
   calvin | Nov 29, 2004 03:29am | #20

   I honestly never thought about the makeup air.  Hube probably has an opinion on it if he catches your message.  Most situations I've seen deal with it as it will get there from somewhere........under the door, from a crack in the envelop........you raise an interesting question.  Gas? where combustion air might be a question.......or electric?Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   Quittin' Time

7. 
   Mikey | Nov 29, 2004 03:49am | #21

   Mine is electric... I'm sure there's a code issue for gas, but I'm just being cheap.  I don't want to pump umpteen cfm of conditioned air overboard and have it made up by sucking in hot humid air in through every leak in the house.  There's also the issue that when I get through with the remodel, there won't be many leaks.

8. 
   Scooter1 | Nov 29, 2004 03:53am | #22

   I have installed a couple of the FanTech fans. It is a great produce. It uses no more air than the dryer does. Where do you get the makeup air for your dryer???They should be installed no closer than 8 feet from the dryer, due to condensation issues.Regards,
   Boris"Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934

9. 
   Hubedube | Nov 29, 2004 04:30pm | #23

    A simple way to provide "make-up air" is to install a "ventamatic damper"..   This is simply a very thin leaf type flapper that attaches to the interior of the opening in the wall. It normally will stay closed until your dryer is activated , then this flapper will open up because of the 'drawn-in air' flow.

    When the dryer shuts off, the flapper closes. No electric is power required. It works on air flow and gravity.

     You can make a flapper leaf out of a very thin plastic or styrfoam sheet(sill plate material) and attach it to a louvred collar. Suggested sizes; 4"diam., 6"diam., 4x10 

10. 
    Mikey | Nov 29, 2004 04:43pm | #24

    Sounds like it could serve double duty as a cat door as well, if it were designed to swing in either direction.  Maybe a magnetic "latch" thingy would work to hold it in the neutral/closed position.

11. 
    Hubedube | Nov 29, 2004 05:07pm | #25

     It will have louvres on the exterior face.  Nothing can come in, only air when needed.

    it only swings inward;

     It looks just the same as your normal exterior vent grille. An insect screen can be included.

12. 
    Hubedube | Nov 29, 2004 05:09pm | #26

     Your post ing reply indicates that you do not understand what this looks like or how it works.

13. 
    Hubedube | Nov 29, 2004 12:33am | #16

    The majority of dryers are usually located on exterior(outside) walls, right.?

     It don't take a rocket scientist to figure the best and closest venting route. 

    Venting termination points are;.... rim joist, foundation wall, side wall, soffit, roof, These termination points on the average house are in range, usually from 6' to 16'

     all of which are an easy distance for a normal 4" dryer discharge. Unfortunately, some homeowners don't have any clue as to what route to take so they just buy a few fittings and take the turbulent,much restricted route.

    I agree, that in some RARE cases a dryer, because of difficult route circumstances due to the building's layout has to be installed with a extra few feet of pipe and perhaps an extra 45 or two (did you notice I used the word 45?.   This fitting if used in some cases can cut down on the "actual equivalent length" of a venting system.(even 30 degree fittings can be used for offsets) (these fittings are obtained by adjusting  the segments of an 90 into a leser degree, thus cutting down on air restriction ('equivalent length')

     But a lot of inexperienced installers just pick up some 90's and throw them in. They finally end up using 5 or more -90's when the route could have been done by using only 2 plus a couple of restriction free 45's, or 30's.

    This added restriction makes the venting  velocity suffer , creates hazardous lint build-up, hence the foolish need to install this (yuk) booster.

     There's always a better ,more unrestricted, streamlined way to run an exhaust duct to its termination point.  (without a booster what-so-ever.)

    Been there.....done that.

14. 
    calvin | Nov 29, 2004 01:37am | #17

    yes sir.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

    Quittin' Time

4. 
   MrBill | Nov 28, 2004 04:18am | #5

   Matt,

    I bought my house new in 1978 and that is how the dryer was vented. I ran a 4" pvc pipe up from the vent to the ceiling, one 90deg bend and out to the side of the garage, its about 15 feet. I have never had a single problem with the pipe getting clogged up. I do clean it at least once a year by sucking a string through with the shop vac and then pulling through a round brush. It really does not get very much buildup at all.

    NOTE :  I do not claim to be an expert on this, and do not know if it meets code. I am just telling you my experience.

   Bill Koustenis

   Advanced Automotive Machine

   Waldorf Md

5. 
   alwaysoverbudget | Nov 28, 2004 07:50am | #6

   i sweated my insp. just because of the dryer vent 19' with 3 90's all 4" metal duct. everything i read said that was two long. when the insp. got here he said it was fine as long as my dryer was rated for it.[ i think most newer ones are rated for 40' less 5' for every 90]. anyway he mentioned that if i had been out of code i could have stepped up to 6" metal duct and been fine, so you might check on that .larry

1. 
   brownbagg | Nov 28, 2004 08:01am | #7

   at least you would not have any mositure in the garage. who cares how long

6. 
   DanH | Nov 28, 2004 04:43pm | #8

   In any event, be sure to leave the thing arranged so that the ducts can be accessed every 10 feet or so for cleanout.

   (Does anyone make a "cleanout" for dryer ducts?")

1. 
   Hubedube | Nov 28, 2004 05:13pm | #9

   "does anyone make a cleanout for dryer ducts?"

    Yes ,they call it a 'handyman'

7. 
   BSayer | Nov 29, 2004 07:30pm | #27

   If you are really desperate, Bosch makes a ventless dryer. We just got one, not installed yet so I can't say how well it works. Does add $300 to the cost.

1. 
   Mikey | Nov 29, 2004 08:21pm | #28

   I'm not $300 desperate yet.  Hube, I've actually got an idea how such a purpose-built vent might look, although Butler (the owner of the Ventamatic brand) doesn't seem to have anything like that on their Website.  The combo cat-door/vent was my own idea.  In any event, I'm going to take a closer look at the dryer to see if it's practical to isolate it entirely from the interior environment, which will require some creative ductwork and cabinetry.

1. 
   Hubedube | Nov 30, 2004 02:35am | #32

    a 1hour 'diy' job at the most...  Buy a 4" diam. dryer exterior wall grille c/w sleeve attached,approx $ 4. Remove the flapper (not needed. install it thru the wall. cut a 5" diam piece of cloth or thin lightweight plastic and glue or screw the top portion as a hinge. When the dryer is off this flap is closed. When the dryer operates, flap is drawn open, thus make-up  air is pulled in. 

1. 
   Mikey | Nov 30, 2004 02:50pm | #33

   Maybe a couple hours -- the wall is 6" brick -- but I think I'll wind up doing something similar.

2. 
   UncleDunc | Nov 29, 2004 08:41pm | #29

   >> ... Bosch makes a ventless dryer.Where does the water go?

1. 
   DanH | Nov 29, 2004 10:14pm | #31

   > Where does the water go?Down the drain. The unit contains a dehumidifier.

3. 
   HammerHarry | Nov 29, 2004 09:12pm | #30

   Give me $300 bucks and I'll give you a solar powered ventless dryer.