Does anyone know how to push a dryer flush to the back wall and bury the vent into the wall? I am limited for room and need every inch I can get. Also, what is the best material to use for the vent material-metal? PVC? ABS? Help!
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Check out this site.....I use them all the time:
http://www.dryerbox.com/
Anytime I bury a vent in a wall I use the heavy gauge stove pipe...use the framing screws at all connections, as well as duct tape.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
"DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE"
When you bury the pipe where are you venting it out side?
Can you vent threw the roof, or bury under ground?
Yes, vent to the outside and no, you cannot bury it under ground. I prefer to vent through a side wall....the less roof penetrations, the better. Check the dryers owners manual as to maximum run of ductwork, and keep in mind that every turn in the run shortens that distance considerably.J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
"DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE"
And, if possible, run it straight out the back. Look at your dryer manual. You want the vent pipe lined up with your dryer, and the pipe needs to be firmly and properly attached to the drywall; that way, you can slid the dryer straight back and have the vent connect properly. It can be a royal pain to have to fiddle with the dryer to get the vent to connect as you are trying to wiggle it into place.
PS - discuss with whoever is is care and control of major appliances (DW, SWMBO, etc) to make sure a new dryer isn't on the list for 3 days after you make it all fit the one you have now.
jaybird,
Thanks for the info. between my posting and your response, i visited a hvac supply store and there was the very product you suggested. its in and working great . thanks again, jjdub
The only penetrations into the pipe should only be a rivet and I'd never use duct
tape as in about 6 months(if that long) the tape will start un-peeling. You should use
the aluminum tape that as the release paper on the back. The big boxes carry it.
Edited to say I got prosperod, sorry Mike but I had that to "all", then when I went
to post ,your name had magically appeared, and I guess after you post there is no
way to change
Edited 4/28/2004 6:07 am ET by butch
>You should use
>the aluminum tape that as the release paper on the back. The big boxes >carry it.
I used this on my propane boiler on the vent stack about 7 years ago and this winter it started delaminating. The metal and adhesive have separated. CO detector noticed it.
It was easy and cheap enough to remove and replace, and if I have to do that every 7 year, no sweat, but I'm not burying it in wall either.
Hsa anybody else seen this? The pipe was cleaned before taping.
"I used this on my propane boiler on the vent stack about 7 years ago and this winter it started delaminating. The metal and adhesive have separated. CO detector noticed it. "
I've never seen this, but thanks for the heads up, and I'll keep an eye out for it.
I'm wondering if when the tape was applied if it was "smoothed"out (pressure applied all the way around the joint), the more you rub it the more the tape becomes "one"with the pipe.
Or maybe it was defective tape.
I don't think that the stuff is designed for high temp applications.
And the integrity of a flue shouldn't depend on tape. Sounds like you have a draft problem.
Dryerbox sounds like what you want. It is a fiberglass box that is inset between studs into the wall behind the dryer. It gives about 4 inches of depth for the dryer vent tube to drop back and let the dryer get almost flush with the wall. It is set up to connect to an outside vent. There are three versions; two for new work and one for installation in existing walls. They are not expensive about $25 plus shipping ordered from the manufacturer on-line. The only problem I've seen is that it compromises the insulation on a small area of an exterior wall and getting the vent from outside into the Dryerbox can be difficult on the retro-fit. The link is below.
http://www.dryerbox.com/
RussA
Don't use flex plastic, or any material with ribs that can catch lint. (Major fire hazard!) There are some flex ducts that are smooth inside, but stiff aluminum duct should be used as much as possible.
Vent as directly as possible. Venting up is not a good idea as the lint that collects in the pipe tends to fall back down and collect at the bottom, clogging the pipe.
DON'T VENT INTO AN ATTIC!! This causes humidity damage and creates a very serious fire hazard.
Plan the setup so that all parts can be reached (possibly using a long stick) for cleanout.