Replies

1. 
   calvin | Dec 22, 2004 04:24am | #1

   Wow, there's alot of cuts there.

   If I didn't use stess skin panels, I'd cut to within a 1/4 or so of the frame, install tear-away L bead, finish, paint and then tear away the tear away and clear caulk I think.

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   Quittin' Time

1. 
   MikeFitz | Dec 22, 2004 04:28am | #2

   I used SIP's also, but this is for interior walls.  What are tear away L beads?  I'm not sure I get what you are suggesting.

1. 
   calvin | Dec 22, 2004 04:35am | #3

   Mike,   Tear away L bead, from your drywall supplier.  There is regular L bead, sized for the thickness drywall you used........or tear away L bead.  The tear away kind has a small plastic leg on top of the L bead, keeps the mud off (is your carefull) the wall (beam) your butting too.  The recessed part of the L allows a screed for your blade, similar to the depression and straight edge of corner bead.    You could flat tape into the beam, but it is a mess to finish.  When you're done, you put a small cut in the tear away part and pull it away, leaving a clean 1/16" of white plastic.  Caulk that into the beam, looks good.  Here's maybe a link to the product.  They list an L without the leg that goes over the cut edge of board, never used that.

   http://www.trim-tex.com/catalog/lbeads.htmRemodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   Quittin' Time

1. 
   MikeFitz | Dec 22, 2004 04:41am | #4

   Thanks for the info and link, I'll get some tomorrow.  Luckily, the SIP's were installed with the sheetrock already screwed on over the osb, so it runs behind the frame.  I framed my interior walls so that the braces show on both sides, which will look nice once they are finished, but a headache to drywall and mud.

2. 
   dIrishInMe | Dec 22, 2004 06:25am | #6

   Interesting - havn't seen anything exactly like that before.  I read on the tips web page of the web site you referenced that it is to be fastned with "divergent staples".  Is that what you do?   Where do you get those?  Can you get them in T-50 style?Matt

1. 
   calvin | Dec 22, 2004 07:42am | #7

   Divergent staples huh?  Well, maybe that means the alternated cut on the legs of most staples I use...........yep, T-50 is what i've only ever used.  I have wanted to give spray adhesive a try, as sometimes you have trouble getting the staple in enough so it doesn't interfere with the thin mud area.  I used to flat tape all these type installs, against brick, metal, wood beams etc and that work fine.  The tear-away L, is a neater, screed guided system.  A better result I feel. 

   I've used it when the edge of the board is visible too.  Looks way better sometimes than J bead.  Remember too how some mudders would bury the face of J in mud much like the same result in using L. Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   Quittin' Time

2. 
   dIrishInMe | Dec 23, 2004 03:22am | #10

   yep.  I used some T-50 staples today, and when loading the stapler I noticed that indeed the chisel points were alternating, which I guess would qualify them as divergent. Matt

3. 
   calvin | Dec 23, 2004 04:37am | #11

   I guess that would.  As andy would say......

   be divergent.

   with your wife if you get the opportunity.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   Quittin' Time

2. 
   FNbenthayer | Dec 22, 2004 04:58am | #5

   Straight paper tape the rock so the edge is flush to your timber.

    

    

    

    

   The awful thing is that beauty is mysterious as well as terrible. God and the devil are fighting there, and the battlefield is the heart of man.
   - Fyodor Dostoyevski

3. 
   slykarma | Dec 22, 2004 08:29am | #8

   Ditto what Calvin said. 'Zip strips' work well as long as the taper doesn't fling mud all over the place.

   Wally

   Lignum est bonum.
4. 
   hammer1 | Dec 22, 2004 09:42am | #9

   I've built a number of timber frames. After a year the beams will shrink at least 1/4", more is some areas and hardly any in others. The bigger the beam, the more shrinkage. Most of the beams I've worked with, are rough hewn. Running an edge or channel up against them is tough. Most finishers flat tape. Getting into brace areas is a real pain. You need special knives. The beams will continue to shrink for a few years. If the gaps bother you, be prepared to do it again. Caulking isn't something you will want to have to clean off later. I don't have an easy answer. I think you just have to figure redoing it a room at a time in the future, when it's time to repaint. Most just embrace the rustic look.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

1. 
   MikeFitz | Dec 23, 2004 04:57am | #12

   Thanks for the advice and experience.  At least I can sound authoritative when my wife asks me in a year or two "Honey, why are the gaps growing?  Is it supposed to do that?"  I can see it coming.....

1. 
   hammer1 | Dec 23, 2004 07:25am | #13

   There will be a few times, during the night, when there is some loud cracking and popping as the beams shrink. It can sound like the roof just caved in. You can cut some inexpensive 6" taping knives in triangular shapes with metal snips to get into those small brace areas. It also helps to cut the paper tape in half length ways. That way you won't have to feather out so far. I've warned every taper on these jobs that it is going to take much longer to finish than they think. They never listen, they think the smaller number of boards means less work, Ha! Instead of sanding in those small areas you may be able to damp sponge it. That will depend on your taping ability. The sanding dust is hard to clean off the beams, use a vacuum sander and go easy.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

5. 
   ponytl | Dec 23, 2004 07:37am | #14

   i butt against old big beam construction all the time... never heard of the tear-a-way

   but it sounds cool...  I've addressed this seveal ways...  staple a strip of drywall tape to the beam to be butted against before hang'n the rock (staple where  the staples won't prodrude past the hung rock) then hang & flat tape to it then with a stright edge cut away the exposed tape... leaves an ok looking edge... if i think there will be movement at the intersection and a crack will show up later i then add a small trim piece only fixed to the timber/beam so that it hides the joint and moves with the beam...

   pony

1. 
   dIrishInMe | Dec 26, 2004 02:37am | #15

   Sorry for my ignorance - when you say "flat tape" what does  that mean?  Just tape the edge of the rock and them mud over...Matt

1. 
   calvin | Dec 26, 2004 03:06am | #16

   Matt, bed tape in compound and slide it up to the beam, coating it tight to that edge.  Fills the gaps in the rock and applies a nice finished free hand edge.  For curves and nooks and crannys, cut pcs of tape and work around the changes in direction.  Keeps cracks from forming if you just mud up the voids between the rock edge and the beam or whatever you die the board into.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   Quittin' Time

6. 
   talkingdog | Dec 26, 2004 05:27am | #17

   I know it is too late at this point, but I'd like to point out a detail for this I found on the web somewhere (think it was on the Bensonwood website, can't find it now).

   Instead of butting your sheetrock up against the posts and beams, you slide it into a one inch reveal that has created between the frame and the SIPS. That is, your frame is furred out on the side facing outward with a stip of wood the thickness of your sheetrock and a couple of inches narrower than the width of the framing members, and the SIPs are screwed to that, instead of directly to the frame. This way, your framing members can shrink to their heart's content and it doesn't matter.

1. 
   ponytl | Dec 26, 2004 07:01pm | #18

   i just read up on that detail...(leave'n the gap or grove behind the beam to slide the drywall into)  that would appear to be the trick way to do it... i saw where they'd fir out with 1x stock leave'n a 3/4 gap for that detail...  thats the way i'd go if i had my choice...

   pony

   ie: flat tape'n  = treat'n a drywall edge like it was a drywall joint...  at least thats what we call it around here

1. 
   talkingdog | Dec 26, 2004 08:44pm | #19

   BTW, since I lost the reference to that, could you tell me where you found that detail info, maybe post the url?

2. 
   MikeFitz | Dec 28, 2004 06:51am | #20

   I have seen that in one of Benson's books.  My panel guys screwed the sheetrock to the panels before attaching the panels to the frame so that the sheetrock on the outside walls runs completely behind the posts.  My challenge is on the interior walls, where I am also sheetrocking around the braces.