This has probably been addressed here before, and I missed it:
What is the concensus on how to detail drywall installation and finish when encountering the flange on a tub or shower unit?
Do you just rock over the flange or lip, causing the drywall to lift away from the plane of the wall, and let the tilesetter cuss later?
Do you carve out the back of the drywall in an attempt to leave a flat surface?
Do you rock just up to the edge of the flange, and then use setting compound to float over to the unit? Will this approach cause cracking later?
Anyone have a neat way to solve this?
“Citius, Altius, Fortius“
Replies
rip down some stock the same as the thickness the tub sets off the wall.
Then strip on top of the tub and go about one stud or so past it. Let the drywall float over to it. This makes it less noticeable than just having a bulge right at the tub.
i always just use drywall shims,usally 3 thickness's and then sheetrock it.works much better than leaning it out that 3/16. larry
hand me the chainsaw, i need to trim the casing just a hair.
I have done the shims like you guys said. That has worked OK in some cases.
Nowadays it seems the flanges I run into can be as much as 3/8" higher than the stud plane!
That's alot a shimmin'. I don't get paid extra to shim that much.
What about the idea of stopping short and using a setting compound float? In most cases we would be placing tile over it.
"Citius, Altius, Fortius"
the "WONDERBOARD" should sit on the top of the flange....when the tile is set, on top of the tub, or shower, it will be at a 90 degree angle to the lip of the tub...sheetrock isn't a good idea, anywhere near a tub or a shower....
$12.00 worth of 3/8" mason's lath does the trick. The lath strips are 1.5" wide. Nail them onto EVERY stud on the same wall(s) as the flange. PACK OUT THE WHOLE WALL. You can't have dips and bulges in your walls... You guys are nuts.
You're right as rain!Fur out all the studs with some furring strips. Easy as pie and it looks TIGHT!
You don't use drywall around a tub or shower unless you want failure.
use a coincrete board product. There are several
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I hope you don't think I would use any kind of sheetrock on one of my own jobs.
For the time being, having recently moved to Colorado, I have to do what the 'man ' wants.
Trying to teach them a better way.
But NO WAY will they spend more money.
"Citius, Altius, Fortius"
To all who recommend a backer board instead of drywall, I applaud you. No other way to do it right (well, Ditra, too).
I am stuck for now trying to make a buck and found myself hanging rock.
Didn't like a lot of the ways that the job was done, but I'm not the GC on this one.
However, i have run across this situation before on my own jobs:When using a shower/tub combo, I have drywalled up to the side edge, figuring that it would get limited (if any) exposure to water.
I had a drywall sub who hung rock up to the edge and then used setting compound to fill to the fixture. I let him do one this way.
So far, one year+, no crack.
"Citius, Altius, Fortius"
Everyone here uses plain old sheetrock, then the Schluter system of membranes.
That's everyone, highest end to low. No one is experiencing failures, unless of course you want to talk of those that come from installation goofs, which can happen even when one is using the old methods and materials.
Go over to the John Bridge forum and check out what the tile pros are saying.
Is Schluter stuff available to you?
I haven't ever seen or used that stuff. I can't count how many units I have rebuilt since I started doing tile work back in the seventies all because they were tiled over SR.
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My girfriends parents just replaced their tile around their tub....again. The grout failed around the soap dish and the drywall got wet. And as days and months passed the drywall stayed wet and soaked in more and more water untill the entire wall just about collapsed on them.
They will use cement backerboard this time.
But in responce to the question I thought that teh backerboard was supposed to stop just at the top of the lip, then your bottom row of tile was to hang over the lip a little with like a 1/4" gap that gets silicone caulking.
"Oh, this is the worst-looking hat I ever saw. What, when you buy a hat like this I bet you get a free bowl of soup, huh? Oh, it looks good on you though."
Edited 3/3/2006 5:34 pm ET by xosder11
how about this one... I don't want to hijack the thread but.... in my loft project where shower units are on firewalls the inspector wants firerock behind the shower unit... so as he sees it he wants the firerock then the shower unit as i see it's nuts... ...
anyone ever heard of this?
thanks
p
Is it a common or party wall?
If it is you need to find out what kind of fire rating he is expecting.
What do the plans say?
Eric[email protected]
It's Never Too Late To Become What You Might Have Been
All the time, usually a layer of 5/8" down to the floor, set tubs and vapor barrier and cement board Mike
Trust in God, but row away from the rocks.
thanks... I checked out alot of "like" projects and none had the firerock behind the tubs on party walls... I didn't see how you could get the rating without it... so like a rock i pointed it out to the inspector... he checked it out... told me he's never seen it done around here.... but he also said ... "guess i will now"...
I don't have a problem with doing it... not only for the fire issues but for sound as well... but i can tell u... it's never been done around here... I'm cool with it... but don't think others will be
p
Most cities want to inspect all firewalls before any tape or cover. They may also want to inspect the firetape as well.
Just finished a limestone shower against an acrylic base. I put 30# felt on the studs and let it hang over the base flange about half the distance from the top of the flange to the base. Then I rested the cement backer board on the top of the flange. Before laying the tile on the backer board I used 100% silicone caulk between the felt and the base and pressed the felt into the caulk holding it down gently. I then put a 1/4" shim on the base lip and began laying the tiles. The shim keeps the tile from sliding down to the base. After the tiles set-up I remove the shim and grout the wall making sure I fill the gap between the base and the back and the bottom of the tile. (I tape the base in a nice straight line so the grout looks great after I pull the tape) After the grout is sealed I have no need for caulk at the base. I haven't experienced any cracking between the base and the tile. If the grout is sealed yearly there should be no need to caulk the base/tub rim.
Mother nature will outlive us all!
Furring is all good and well until you have a door wall as well.
I cut my WATER RESISTANT DRYWALL to the edge of the flange and use fast set mud to fill in the gaps. Apply fiberglass tape over the mud before it sets up.
I've never had a crack using this method.
Your description made me realize something. I have been menatlly picturing a tiled shower or tile above a bathtub.It may be that this thread ios about SR abutting a unit like a full 5' high FG or acrilic unit. For that , your method is fine in my book. I was responding to tile in wet locations above.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
We always notch the studs out the same thickness as the nailing flange and use a countersink to flush up the heads of the insallations screws, (usually galvanized deck screws) leaving a nice straight plane. I find this to be faster than cutting shims.