We just had our garage drywalled last week. Tonight when I went out to start getting it prepped for painting I realized that I’d forgotten to tell the drywallers to keep the drywall up off the ground.
The garage floor gets wet when it rains really hard (as it just did this weekend). Probably because of no vapour barrier under the slab, and the downspouts dumping the water too close to the house. Even after correcting the downspouts I’m sure the floor will still get wet occasionally, so I need to cut out the bottom inch of drywall.
What’s the best way to do this and have a relatively clean looking edge? I’m thinking a Rotozip though I’m not sure if it will allow me to get close enough to the ground.
Or should I try it with my sawzall or just a utility knife? I’d like to get a relatively clean edge and just leave it, but if I can’t do that then I’ll cover it with some scrap baseboard later (keeping the baseboard off the ground).
cheers – mark
Replies
Actually, a Rotozip ... preferably in the 'jigsaw' base ... is just about perfect. It will cut the drywall about 1" above the floor.
Otherwise, there is a 'flush cut saw' attachment for the rotozip. Set the tool on a tile or board of the appropriate thickness, and you can cut at any level you like.
Edited 10/29/2007 8:16 pm ET by renosteinke
Thanks guys. I think I will use this as an opportunity to pick up a new tool. I'm sure I'll find some more uses for the Rotozip as I'm putting in a new bathroom, renovating two other bathrooms and the kitchen.I should have noticed this when I did the final walkthrough with the drywall guy and I didn't. Since he's got his cheque he won't be back.cheers - mark
Since you've got more drywall to do and you're getting a Rotozip anyway, be sure to pick up some drywall guide point bits like this: http://www.amazon.com/Rotozip-GP10-Guide-Drywall-10-Pack/dp/B0000224P6
They are just the thing for cutting around junction boxes, recessed lights, etc.
Of course, as previously stated the guidepoint tips are not what you want to use for trimming the bottom of the garage panels. You need a tip that can cut flush against the framing, and the guidepoint tips need to penetrate through the drywall about 1/4" in order to work.
If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader
Even if you can get a clean cut an inch off the floor, I think it would look sloppy and be a collection point for all sorts of debris. Instead, why not just cut it freehand with a recip saw and use some vinyl baseboard snug to the floor.
If a Rotozip won't do it you could use a Rotozip tip in a Dremmel tool.
Hmmm. Drywallers shouldn't have to be told to keep DW up off the garage slab. Sheesh! If it was me, I'd make them come back and fix it. Assuming that's not gonna happen:
A Rotozip with the proper bit would work -- sorta. Make sure you don't get the bits with the guide tip for trimming around boxes, etc. They won't cut since the last 1/4" is just the guide -- no teeth -- and they only work if the bit can go all the way through the DW plus 1/4". The plate will prevent that. Also, you may well be running into screws at that level, so pick up a few extra bits. ;-(
Might have been nice to have some J-bead on the edge, but that's sorta out, now that the DW is in. Unless you install it backwards and tape and mud the edge. I've actually done that a few times and it's not too bad for a muck-up fix. Another option would be to cut it up about an inch and then run some vinyl cove base to cover the cut and spruce it up a bit.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
If you remove much drywall or plaster, the Kett Saw is the best way to do it. Ive never seen anything quicker or cleaner.
We use ours in combination with a Fein vacuum and it's virtually dustless.
http://www.kett-tool.com/webpages/tools/saws/KSV-432.htm
Looks nice but $300 is more than I could sneak past the DW :)cheers - mark
If you can beg, borrow or purchase a Fein Supercut or Multimaster, do it. This is the perfect tool for what you need. Draw your line and follow it easily, leaving an almost factory style edge. They are expensive, but well worth it!!!!!!!! I won't loan mine out, but maybe someone would back there. Once you try it you're going to want one, they are that good. I have used mine so much on so many different types of jobs, hard to imagine what I did before I got it. I got rid of my Roto Zips after trying out my Fein.
Thomas Jefferson
3rd president of US (1743 - 1826)
I would probably use my Fein Multimaster for a job like this. Trying to do a single pass freehand while trying to follow a pencil line usually results in something less than a perfectly straight cut. I find that I do better if I draw a line and then cut a shallow groove before I then go back and cut the full thickness of the drywall. I have also used my trim saw to make cuts like this - my Makita 3 3/8 trim saw will requires very little standoff and would do this easily. I have gotten a reluctant to use it after having it kick back pretty quickly a couple of times, however. My other trim saws might also do the trick as the blade is about 3/4 of an inch from the edge of the guard. Maybe put something down that was the right thickness and was also slick and then just scoot the saw along at the right height for a really straight line.
I have to disagree. The MM will do the job, but is painfully slow compared to a Rotozip.
If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader
Like I said, I got rid of my RZ. The dust, ragged edge, could not see the line. I have no trouble now following a line with the wide standard blade and almost no mess to clean up. Besides I burned up two other RZ's with sheetrock dust in the switches and bearings. The FSC has all sealed parts, but there is so little dust it is not a problem. Anyway, just my two cents worth.
I agree with Bill, cut it with anything and cover it up with baseboard..Never fear the want of business. A man who qualifies himself well for his calling, never fails of employment.
Thomas Jefferson
3rd president of US (1743 - 1826)
Edited 10/29/2007 11:46 pm by Hoohuli
I maybe didn't have the right blade, but I tried my MM on some drywall a couple of weeks ago and finally gave up and went to the RZ, since progress was so slow.
If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader
The right blade is crucial and they are expensive, but with all the different types of jobs one can do with the FSC, it's the greatest! A friend tried mine and then when right out and bought one of his own. Now I just add the price of blades used into the materials. Now I'm really prejudiced toward my FSC and don't loan it out to anyone.Never fear the want of business. A man who qualifies himself well for his calling, never fails of employment.
Thomas Jefferson
3rd president of US (1743 - 1826)
Edited 10/29/2007 11:56 pm by Hoohuli
So what blade do you use for drywall? I thought I had them all, but a standard segment blade seemed like the best fit.
If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader
I use the Fein Supercut 2 1/2" Standard E Cut for most drywall applications. Start it on an angle and let one corner just penetrate, then just slide it along the line. I will admit it is not as fast as the RZ, but I don't have to set up a guide or do massive cleanup. I use a plastic sheet material taped to the wall just under an outlet cut and bent into a 5 gal. bucket to catch the dust when working in someone's home. Very little mess and perfect cutouts, with smooth edges. The mushroom blade is wonderful for cutting a back splash loose without damaging the drywall or cutting the caulk under the rim of a sink to remove the sink with do damage to the counter surface in very short order. Cool blade now that I am familiar with the use of it.Never fear the want of business. A man who qualifies himself well for his calling, never fails of employment.
Thomas Jefferson
3rd president of US (1743 - 1826)
OK, the 2-1/2" E is the one blade I don't have.
If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader
Don't worry about a clean cut.
Rip some trex or similar in 1/2 and use it for baseboard.
.
A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Circular saw, narrow edge (1.5") down, using the floor as your fence.
Liberty = Freedom from unjust or undue governmental control.
American Heritage Dictionary
I was going to say the same thing--only I was thinking a battery powered circular saw. They have a narrower kerf and throw less dust than the plug-in saws.
Not really sure he wants to go there........
A cut at 1-1/2" above the floor will leave the bottom edge of the drywall unsupported except at the studs. Unless there is a double bottom plate.
I think he wants the cut to be about 1/2" to 3/4" above the floor level to maintain some support at the bottom edge.
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
You are correct, it's a single bottom plate so I want the cut to be less than 1-1/2". Whatever tool I end up using I think I will go with some sort of synthetic baseboard (trex or other composite) to keep the crud from piling up in the bottom gap.I'm going to call the drywall guy this morning and see if I can get him to come back and fix this. If that doesn't work out then I'll probably pick up a Rotozip tonight. I think it's the most economical solution for me. cheers - mark
If you go to a big box they'll have 4-5 different RZ-type tools, including some compact models. So you can pick one suited to your task (and also with some potential for being useful for other projects).Also pick up 2-3 different styles of bits, keeping in mind that you need bits that will cut all the way to the end.
If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader
with a ply wood blade to lessen dust
if your saw doen't have dust pick up tape something on there
Snap a chalk line at the height you want it cut then use any of the previously stated options to cut it. Some are going to take a little longer, some aren't. If this is your home your time is the cheapest thing there is going to do this project. Doesn't matter if it's straight or not as long as your off the slab and your base will cover it if you plan on installing baseboard. And I'd suggest holding the base up the thickness of a carpenters pencil off the slab anyway.
BjR
I was going to suggest the same. Wear a dust mask. Heh. That's definitely how I would do it. It will take 2 minutes.
Drywall guy didn't return my calls and I needed to get this done so I can start painting tomorrow.I decided on the cheapest route. First went through and removed the low drywall screws that were into the baseplate. Next put an old (disposable) blade onto my circular saw, laid it on the ground and trimmed off the bottom of the drywall. It's still about 1/8" onto the baseplate and I added some screws low on the studs to keep the drywall from flexing. The saw kicked up a lot of dust but had no problems with the cut.Used a utility knife to finish the cut into the corners and it came out remarkably clean. It'll look fine until I get a chance to add some composite baseboards (which I will keep off the ground to prevent any water from wicking up).I'm looking forward to the next big rain so I can track down my water problems.Thanks everyone for your suggestions.cheers - mark
Fantastic!Liberty = Freedom from unjust or undue governmental control.
American Heritage Dictionary
Can't always tell from pictures, but that doesn't appear to be MR drywall.
Not that MR drywall should touch the damp floor of a grage floor either, but I'm envisioning mold issues in your future.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
Nope, it is regular drywall. Not that I'll be changing it now, but for furture reference - are you saying I'll have a mold problem because
- this one incident of getting the bottom 1" of drywall wet
- the garage floor gets wet on rainy days and so the garage will have lots of moisture in the air (even after cutting back drywall)
- all garages should have MR (Moisture Resistant?) drywallcheers - mark
I'd use one of the new fiber-reenforced, paperless, moisture-resistant boards in a garage, because they take abuse better in general.
If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader
Not so drastic as that. Once the DW is again "drywall" (and not wetwall G>) you shouldn't need to worry about mold, unless your garage is damp enough that the DW never really dries out. Mold needs moisture to live, so if you keep things dry, you won't breed the mold.
That said, you might wanna do something about the water that runs into your garage when it rains. Sounds like a drain might be a good investment. There are a lot of good reasons to keep water from regularly running over your garage floor besides mold. Sooner or later, it's gonna cause rotting problems in the interior, and perhaps even the exterior, walls.
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
Thanks Mike, I am definetly going to get out to the garage and find the source of the water during the next heavy rain. We've only been in the house for a few months and I haven't had a chance to locate the source yet.cheers - mark
"We've only been in the house for a few months "
If by that, you mean it's a new house and you are the first occupants, I'd definately look up the builder and have a few words with him. Builders shouldn't have to be told that water should not run into the garage. Slope problems fer sure.
And if you are not the first owner, you may have a gripe with whoever sold you the house unless they told you about the water problem and you purchased it anyway.
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
- this one incident of getting the bottom 1" of drywall wet
No....once you cut out the wet portion and the DW dries out, this one incident will not be of concern. (However, it is also likely that the bottoms of the wall studs are getting wet and wicking moisture upwards, which can dampen the back of the drywall.)
- the garage floor gets wet on rainy days and so the garage will have lots of moisture in the air (even after cutting back drywall)
Yes. Even once the pooling water eventually drains and dries, the concrete floor is going to remain damp. In a garage without heating or AC, humidity alone may lead to mold issues.
- all garages should have MR (Moisture Resistant?) drywall
At least. As Dan mentioned, there are other more resilient products depending upon how the garage will be used.....but MR drywall will at least protect against mold.
J. D. ReynoldsHome Improvements
Lay a piece of 1x down and use it as a guide block for the MM. Consistent 3/4" space.
I'd use a jigsaw saw with a blade that's been broken of so that it only sticks out the thickness of the drywall.
I do this all the time for renovation work. I can cut right across 2X4's and don't have to worry about hitting pipes or wires.
Where's the challenge in that?! LOL!
J. D. ReynoldsHome Improvements
I'd use a 1/2" pice of wood as a spacer and sawzall the rock using a long blade that can be flexed to match the top of the board, unless you have a Multimaster with a coarse blade then that's the ticket.
Cheers
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.