I am looking for some tips, tricks, advice, cautions,…. for my upcoming task of installing drywall on my wall that need to fit around the handhewn beams that support the sencond floor of my 1850 stone home. The beams are +/- 6″ square.
Any tips on making the cuts?
Any guidance on the clearances I should allow?
Any tips on finishing around the beams?
See attached pic of the wall before the insulation was installed/
Thanks in advance.
Replies
I would cut the sheetrock close to the outline of the beams (on some of the weird ones-where you can't slide the board in-because of the curve to the beam-cut the board as if it could be installed. cut the paper on the backside of the board, fold forward- make a flap that can be flipped back into place.
Flat tape the joint right up to the beam. On existing timbers I have not had a problem with shrinking away from the drywall. New timbers, anything can happen.
View Image
A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
My prior boss would fire any employee who he caught laying their tools of customer's furniture of counter tops!
is that why he's your prior boss ?Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
In short...no! Good come back though.
Yessir, that is one smart thinking. Well, not the firing part.
I would agree and should have photoshop'd the levels out of there.
Nicely done.
They currently are planing the new cab/counter for spring.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
Not that it matters, I have fired guys for leaving my stabilas laying on the floor.
Nothing more dangerous on a jobsite than a bent/inaccurate level.
Tell your old boss that if that counter can hold up to a level sitting on it, sell them one that will. :)
If they are already on the floor the guys aren't gonna knock them to the floor anyway . Course the same guys that knock them to the floor would step on them as well I suppose.
Alright boys. I am taking a picture b/4 I walk out the door. The levels will not get knocked off, nor kicked on the floor. I did not throw them on the wood counter. I am the owner, no other employees. I cannot fire myself.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
sms... i'd do it the same way as calvin..
View Image
use a full sheet ( horiz or vert ) and cut your notches sloppy so you don't have to fight the sheet in
then flat tape it with durabond
Cal... 3 weeks with no golf... what's up wit dat ?
you still going to Texas ?
Edited 2/12/2007 7:56 am ET by MikeSmith
Mike, I have not received enough remuneration in the past month point 5 to entertain the idea of a plane ticket, food, beer, and a hundred and 62 holes. Damn poor planning on my part. So I guess it's continued golf dome and immediate play as soon as the snow melts.
Speaking of which, finally it seems that the weatherman here can quit the shakes and be rewarded with a big snowfall. That might put a damper on play for a few weeks.
How bout you?A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
Same situation for me, only the beams were new and not rough hewn (but there were a lot of them). Fit the sheetrock as close as you reasonably can (+/- 1/4" will work), flat tape with Durabond. The job will probably require some close-up work with small putty knives, a fair amount of sanding, and cleaning up afterwards fairly quickly. I waited until I knew the Durabond was dry and then cleaned the beams with a strong TSP solution and it got rid of the residual dust and haze from the work. There are some small cracks owing to these beams will be shrinking for a while, but it's OK, not likely to be ever noticed.
Thanks for the advice guys.
Would you put J/L bead on the top of the drywall sheets where they meet the floor above with maybe a slight gap +/- 1/8" to allow some room for movement of the floor above?
This comes from the land where rustic rules, so take it for what it's worth.
Young birch tree trunks and branches are cut in winter, so the bark stays on. Young means when the bark is still dark, and hasn't grown large enough to turn white and papery.
Sticks at about 1-1/4" diameter are run through the bandsaw to quarter them, making nice quarter-round molding stock. Parts are cut to fit, then stuck in place with some subfloor behind, and small brads to hold. Nail to the beam, not to the sheetrock. The little moldings dress up those hard-to-do joints, and stay there to cover, when and if the beams shrink and move.
i haven't done this but watched it done once and always remembered it just in case...
before the hung the drywall they stapled drywall tape around the beam where the board would meet it.... hung the drywall... flat taped to the beam...in this case to the stapled on drywal tape.... finished as usual tape stayed on until after the wall was primed then the exposed tape was cut away... looked good at the time... have no idea how it looked later but thought it was a trick idea with very little clean up... maybe someone here knows more about doing it this way
p
We use a plastic L-channel that butts up to the beams, is taped and has a tiny tear away leg that protects the beam from joint compound and paint. You cut and tear away the short leg after finishing the drywall. It can cover a fair sized gap (1/2"). I don't know the actual name of this product but try USG.
Here is the company: http://www.trim-tex.com/productsindex.htm
Edited 2/13/2007 10:55 pm ET by Schelling
We've got a bunch of hand-peeled logs in our house. We simply kerfed the logs with a biscuit joiner all around, cleaned it up with a chisel, and slid the board in. I think it would work with timbers too.
I can post pics if you're interested.
Scott.
Always remember those first immortal words that Adam said to Eve, “You’d better stand back, I don’t know how big this thing’s going to get.”
Edited 2/14/2007 9:37 pm by Scott
I was thinking about some kind of notching the beams with a shallow slot to accept the drywall edge - espescially where the angle is negative for a real clean look. I just wasn't sure what tool I would use. Maybe some more info about your technique
I would like to see the photos if you wouldn't mind posting.
Thanks for the idea!
OK. I'll try to do this tomorrow.Scott.Always remember those first immortal words that Adam said to Eve, “You’d better stand back, I don’t know how big this thing’s going to get.”
...bumpI took pics today but don't have time to upload them. Houseguests, kids, ski school for kids, cooking, .....and work... Tomorrow...Scott.Always remember those first immortal words that Adam said to Eve, “You’d better stand back, I don’t know how big this thing’s going to get.”
Well . . . . we're waiting. It's tomorrow !
; >)
Greg
Sorry folks... busy weekend with house guests.
Here's the pics. Obviously this is a work still in progress, but you'll get the idea.
Scott.
View Image
View Image
View Image
View Image
View Image
Always remember those first immortal words that Adam said to Eve, “You’d better stand back, I don’t know how big this thing’s going to get.”
Edited 2/18/2007 2:05 pm by Scott
You have an 1850's stone house with rough-hewn exposed beams.
Are you sure you want perfectly smooth drywall meticulously finished around the beams? I would consider rough-troweling a skimcoat on the gyp board and letting there be some irregularities where it meets the beams; sort of in keeping with the character of the original structure.