*
I have heard of drywall installation on ceilings where the butt-end joints are located between joists. The joints are backed up by a canted piece of plywood which forces the drywall ends to depress when screwed down. The idea is that the resulting joint is similar to the tapered edge joint. Has anyone used this technique, and how useful is it? How about doing it on walls?
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
This time-tested installation method for flangeless windows ensures smooth operation and provides air, water, and vapor control.
Featured Video
Highlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Replies
*
Its easy to do, and yes you can do it on a wall. All you need is some scrap ply and a bundle of drywall shims. Before FHB changed their website, you could find the technique described over there- might still be there. Nowadays, I wouldn't do a butt joint on a ceiling any other way, but usually don't need it on walls. Come back if you need details.
*Ken,Last year I employeed this method in a townhouse basement, which I was finishing and doing all the work myself. I do limited drywall work but find but joints on the ceiling my only weakness. SoI thought this method would make finishing the but joints as easy as the tapered joints AND IT DID.But I had a problem following an article on this...the narrower pieces that nail on the big piece of plywood, well when I used 1/4" thick like the article said, it was to much for the drywall to flex (even moving them furthur apart). The drywall was breaking. Maybe it is a drywall quality issue? I was using regular 1/2" board. Maybe someonre can pipe in here and say if 1/2" high strength or 5/8" ceiling board works better? I ended up using some cardboard ( not corragated type) about 1/16" thick to build up a 1/8" thickness and that is all I needed. I ended up with enough of a recession for the tape to fit into. This method would work better on 2' spaced roof trusses than 16" spaced floor trusses, many times I had to cut a sheet for length to clear a joist enough for the plywood thing to fit.Maybe it is a regional thing , but when I mentionedthis method to various drywallers around here they all look at you like you're a freaking idiot.The house I'm building now for myself didn't get this done on the ceiling (hired out ceiling) , but when I do walls and the basement I'm definately going to use this method.DJ
*DJ - Thanks for sharing your experience. I also only do limited drywall since it would be stupid for a carpenter like me to spend time a regular drywaller could do better and faster. I think we may have read the same article. I kind of recall something being said about plywood thickness- of course if the ply was too thin it would prob. negate the whole purpose of this method. I'm also thinking that the ply could be as wide as 12". I'd use the regular solid paper drywall shims. I'm not so young anymore so I can appreciate hiring out the lid! Thanks again.
*check out: http://www.butthanger.comgreat tool for butt joints.
*It's a well-accepted technique, but normally just used on ceilings. It's excellent for old house remodels where joists may not consistently fall "X" inches on center, and you don't furr.On walls, it's nice to have a solid stud as a backer behind the vertical butt joints to prevent joint flexing/cracking whenever the walls get banged.
*I never have a problem with but joints. I stagger them and tape wide. This is the first Ive heard of tis process but it seems a lot more expense and labor over a little extra taping. Just my $.02 worth.
*Until last year I had drywalled only once in 20 years.Last year I did my daughter's ceilings, 2000 sq ft. including one 26x26 room.Taping end joints is easy. Use the fiberglass tape. Put a light coat of setting compund on to hold the tape in place and then a couple coats out to 10" on each side. Then tape and mud the tapered joints.
*I used 5/8 firing and 1/2 ply for my butts on the ceiling with 5/8 fire rock ,worked well.
*"Taping end joints is easy". Uh, yeah, sure. S.
*I don't think that method is worth the trouble.Just feather those butt joints way out.
*Maybe not, but my ceilings are usually perfect and smooth. And never textured.
*They sell a device that is two pieces of steel in an elongated _/--_ shape with a piece of wood adhered to the bottom of the top of the shape and it is made to go inbetween the bays and bow the butts up creating a tapered joint. Whoever came up with this idea is or probably will soon be making a mint. Best way of hanging butts I have ever seen.
*See #4 in this thread! -Ken H.
*You'll find the Butthanger reviewed in the next FHB, that is, #145. It was developed by Myron Ferguson, the same guy who wrote the article that you remember.Andy
*SamD ---End joints are easy. All of the problems are in putting the first coat of compound on the tape. One swipe of compound with a wide blade and you quit until the next day. A second swipe will pull the tape off.And my 26' x26' ceiling looks flat when you stand on a ladder. Never been prouder of my drywall work.
*George- Taping butt joints is something we're all familiar with; all the same, I avoid them wherever possible. I feather them out a good deal and it works but it's still a pain compared to a tapered joint. Sam
*You can also use something we called drywall strips. Basically they're thin pieces of cardboard/paper about 52" long. You tack them up to the studs/joists on either side of the stud where the butt joint is. This forces a slight dip at the butt joint. Just about any kind of cardboard will do. We've even used plain old corrugated boxes when we were out of strips. Just make sure they're over 48" so they catch the next row of drywall.
*AAHAA- Nick Danger, Third Eye..........What ever happened to Betty Jo Biolowski?
*I am not a rocker butt just curious. Do any of you guys cut the paper on the face and peel some of the paper off? I have seen it done a few times and was wondering how you guys felt about it? GOOD ? BAD?
*Ricky- I've done that a few times when I had to remove a recessed medicine cabinet and then rock over the hole. I scored lightly around the hole and the plug-in piece, then used a sharp chisel to peel off most of the paper, leaving a slight recess to mud in paper joint tape. It actually worked quite well- had a minimal amount of mud to apply, and hardly any floating out to do. Drywallers would never fiddle around with this- they'd just float out and keep flyin'.