I have been building basement partitions using steel studs which I think are great.
Have been using drill with dimpler bit to attach the drywall with fine treaded screws labeled for steel studs. The screws seem to strip out before the drywall is properly dimpled (1/2 inch drywall, 25ga studs, and 1 inch screws).
Any suggestions?
Thanks! Doc
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Replies
use fine thread dw screws without the driller point. Use the drillers in the heavier gauge studs that you use at your door openings and things like that.
Do you use deflection track on your top of walls?
An inch to short. That's the story of my life !
bstcrpntr --- I hope to grow into this name.
docrichard, I have had this problem in the past and it drove me apsolutley crazy. Are you standing the drywall up? I have not had good luck w/home depot screws. Use fine thread screws, Fast speed w/moderate pressure to the screw gun (not cordless) You need to use corded screw gun (higher speed).Remember to walk your screws down the sheet. start at the top or bottom and work your way up. The dimpler works well in wood, I would use corded gun in light gauge steel. I can send you a picture if you need it
-Lou
It's hard to get a screw to set properly in 25 gauge stud, even with a drywall screwgun and experience.
The studs are simply too thin to give the screw enough bite to set correctly.
You can try going in at a very slight angle with the screw, then get off the trigger just before the screw is about to set.
Even with this, consistant results are difficult.
You'd be doing yourself a big favor by using 20 gauge studs. The difference(in many ways) is worth the few cents per foot difference.
Any descent yard will have 20 gauge. Enjoy... Buic
Try too place the screw at the base of the break on the stud leg . It is a lot less flexable there . The screw tends to start easier in that spot.
I use the fine thread drywall screws in the metal studs too attach the drywall and i always use a corded drywall gun too set the screws. I have to say the I never have used the dimpler. Drywall guns arent that expensive and are faster and do a better job in wood or steel studs and dont use the coarse thread drywall screws in steel use the drywall screws made for steel studs.
I've got a dimpler in my tool box. Been there 13 years and it is still like new. tried it once and put it to bed.
Both my screw guns are over 25 years old and show their age.
Stud gauge isn't that big a deal. Fine thread, needle point screws will do the job for him. They penetrate the light gauge studs easily, and have enough taper to grab and pull up tight.
Using self drilling/self tapping dw screws is the problem. SD/ST screws have a drill point and no taper to speak of in the screw body. The drill point is only slightly smaller than the screw body and when they punch through light gauge studs they strip easily. They are designed for heavy gauge studs.
Dave
The only time I use 25ga studs is when the specs call for it. I have to bid accordingly and competeively.
If I have the option, 20ga every time. you will be amazed at how much better a product it is and how differently it handles.
The difference between stupidity and genius is that genius has its limits. -Albert Einstein
http://www.peteforgovernor.com
Agree 100%, but he ask about 25 ga.
Dave
Thanks for all the help and suggestiuons.
I decided to try the easiest fix first--getting different screws. The sharp pointed screws are working well. No more tapping/self-drilling screws for this project.
Thanks again everyone!
Doc
Dave, whats the cost difference between an 8ft25gauge and 8ft20gauge. Have been using 25 gauge for 12 years in my finished basement jobs. We have had the same problems with the 25g. It drives me crazy. When I first started using metal we never had this problem. Maybe 25 gauge was 25 gauge. now it seems more like 30 gauge.
_lou
The screws should be placed at the open end, otherwise the stud twists.Coarse thread 1 1/4' drywall screws are better than fine thread screws for light gauge studs.The coarse threads hold better and do not strip out as easily as fine threads or Hi-Lo screws.When starting the first scres in the open end of the stud, just go a little slower til it grabs.After a three or four screws are in go as fast as you want.
mike
I would start screws close to the web and then move out to about the middle of the leg . The boss wanted them in the center of the leg. Right or wrong?
I can see where it would be good to hold the open end tight to the board . But a little stager of the screws should make it stronger . but probably not enough to measure.
we always try to screw toward the hard side.(closed side) When we hang a room we start so that our sheets end on hard side and start o the other.
When you frame with steel studs do you use slap studs, and other commercial ways of framing, or do you frame like it was wood?An inch to short. That's the story of my life !
bstcrpntr --- I hope to grow into this name.
I never did much steel stud framing. But I have noticed a lot of improvements since the first time I hung rock on the things. We had to make sure the studs were on 16s as they only screwed a few of them to the track . they left the remaining studs loose ,the drywall was to hold it in place . This was nonload partition walls in a hirise.
Slap studs fit in notches in the track? or is that some other meaning ? Do you use any of them with a spacer rod? it fits in punch hole in the stud and locates them at 16 or 24.
slap stud is where last stud on wall is left lose so drywall can go through the corner and into next room, just like the layout does.
We secure one side of studs to both tracks, unless using deflection track then we take top screw out to allow deflection.
An inch to short. That's the story of my life !
bstcrpntr --- I hope to grow into this name.
I use that one--picked it up from my cousin in Chicago--union DW contractor--puts up studs and rock all day--man what a life--IAC I helped him on a job a while back and picked up a pile of steel tricks--Now when I do a basement it is always a mix of steel and wood--Soffits, partition walls, all get framed diffenently now that I know the pros and cons of each material--I run the rock straight thru. Never knew it was called a slap stud.They never use 25 guage so I learned on the thicker stuff--don't think I can get use to it---Local DW supplier carries the heavier stuff so that is what I use. Mike"Even a blind squirrel finds a nut once in a while" Mitremike c. 1990" I reject your reality and substitute my own"
Adam Savage---Mythbusters
slap stud might be a regional thing
thats what we call it in southern illinois and st. louis area
The last basement I did we framed everythign in steel.
Soffits and areas for drop ceilings were done with drop ceiling grid for drywall, ever use that stuff?
Steel framing is great, as long as you know the tricks.
An inch to short. That's the story of my life !
bstcrpntr --- I hope to grow into this name.
drop ceiling grid for drywallThis is a new one to me--does it resemble and lay out like ceiling tiles do and then screw the Dw to that?Sounds interesting--I have even mixed steel and wood in the same wall---sometimes I will anchor all my green plate and attach track to the ceiling--cut a pile of studs--toe nail the bottom and lock the tops in the track with 1/2" 16 guage staples--Turning down the pressure and the staples pierce the steel and set the crown just on top of the steel--Work slick when you are alone--Steel works great when you have to turn a corner where a steel post is--you can wrap the post in steel studs that you can't do with wood--One of the best side jobs I ever had was working with my cousin doing steel framing---learned all kinds of steel tricks.Mike"Even a blind squirrel finds a nut once in a while" Mitremike c. 1990" I reject your reality and substitute my own"
Adam Savage---Mythbusters
The grid looks vdery similar to regular drop ceiling, and yes you screw the dw right to it. It is a heavier guage and wider, so it works nicely.
Here is a link, any local suppleir should be able to get it.
http://www.armstrong.com/commceilingsna/article8536.htmlAn inch to short. That's the story of my life !
bstcrpntr --- I hope to grow into this name.
Interesting--have to keep that one in the "brain vault" AKA the black hole--(grin)Have tracked a couple of small area to hang rock but I have done big drop ceilings and could see the bennies of useing this system.One more trick in the bag--Thanks--Mike"Even a blind squirrel finds a nut once in a while" Mitremike c. 1990" I reject your reality and substitute my own"
Adam Savage---Mythbusters
I don't know much, but I get a good one now and then.An inch to short. That's the story of my life !
bstcrpntr --- I hope to grow into this name.
Hi there I found that using coarse drywall screws worked out better and after 4 years the drywalled basement is perfect.
Bruce
docrichard,
I see you got the problem solved but I just want to mention that the "dimpler" works GREAT with the cordless impact driver drill. (I like to use it with a extension.)
It seems the "impact" action of the drill makes the dimpler release at the right time every time.
Fz
Steel stud carpenters
I don't have a lot of experience with steel. How do you hang doors, install wood baseboard and casing to steel studs?
In a residential setting I wrap a 2x4 around the openings for doors. Just frame the steel 3" wider and 1 1/2" taller and frame it down before you dw. Sometimes we just use finish head screws on everthing and putty over them and use no wood.
For base board, there area few tricks. The one I use is that I put my bottom track on a treated plate on the floor. Then aim low. Some people block every cavity but I would use screws before I do that. I have had success with glue and nailing on angles to hold base too.
Hope this helps some. An inch to short. That's the story of my life !
bstcrpntr --- I hope to grow into this name.
Had the same experience with Home Depot 25 gauge studs on a basement side job. On commercial jobs in NYC we get supplies (including 25 gauge studs) from Kamco, Marjam, and other big suppliers and rarely have that problem. A seasoned journeyman told me high-low screws would work well in that situation, but I haven't tried it. My conclusion, Home Depot is garbage for most supplies and is the store that has everything, except the stuff you need.