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drywall over concrete block

| Posted in Construction Techniques on February 7, 2005 03:23am

We want to drywall some office space in a building we’re leasing. I’d rather not fir out the walls.

Can I glue the board to the block with PL and spring boards and get decent results?

Ditch

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Replies

  1. Gabe | Feb 07, 2005 04:12am | #1

    The short answer is yes and it's easier if you use a few tapcons to hold the sheet in place as it sets.

    Also, if you predrill the holes a little smaller than the thread diameter, cheap deck screws will do the job also.

    Gabe

  2. Piffin | Feb 07, 2005 04:52am | #2

    Enerfoam was developed for that kind of application. You want to be darn sure that no water is coming through the wall though, and if you can find guys with the right skills, it can actually be easier to plaster over the block

     

     

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  3. User avater
    Lawrence | Feb 07, 2005 05:13am | #3

    Isn't it easier to use furring channel?  (hat channel). We always used to use a ramset or hilti and have it up in a few hours. You only lose an inch and you get a nice even surface for taping.

    L

     

  4. dinothecarpenter | Feb 07, 2005 06:02am | #4

    Yes but why? Don't you need any outlets there? If not, you can laminate the drywall with joint compound or drywall adhesive.

    BUT, You can always use 1 x 2 metal studs, just in case you need to run wires or remove the drywall.

    and you can always plaster the walls with the D-Mix. or with 2-3 coats of joint compound.

     

  5. User avater
    JeffBuck | Feb 08, 2005 01:20am | #5

    yup.

    just run enough "blocking" to hold her there.

    or ...

    a coupla tap cons ...

    or ... coupla short roofing nails driven into the mortar joints.

    they'll catch ... just abit ... just stop when they catch ...

    then ... after it's all set up ... either hammer them flat and mud over or pull them out and patch ... which's easier ....

    sometimes ya get lucky and they'll hold .. then bend .. and help lock the drywall in place .... but don't play with it too much ... as one more smack can loosen the whole thing.

    we've made 3.5 x 7.5 frames to set against the drywall then braced those to the floor or opposing walls.

    BTW ... Angela said OK to the floor price.

     

    I'm planning on laying the 1/4" stuff and then start trimming sometime this week.

    Was supposed to have my big to her by this weekend ... but ....

    oh well ... Tomorrow's another day.

     

    Jeff

      Buck Construction 

       Artistry in Carpentry

            Pgh, PA

    1. luvmuskoka | Feb 08, 2005 01:58pm | #6

      Thanks to all who justified my cheap method.

      I knew Jeff would know how to glue board to block....he had the nicest cell at Western Penn.

       Ditch

      1. DaveRicheson | Feb 08, 2005 02:16pm | #7

        Just use tension pins for hanging drop ceiling wall mold to fasten the DW.

        Beats the heck out of tapcons or roofing nails. Those small case hardened nails will bite in the block and hold. When the glue sets, finish normally.

         

        Dave

         

        1. User avater
          JeffBuck | Feb 08, 2005 05:22pm | #8

          I've heard of such things ...

          never seen or used them.

           

          thanks for the reminder .. have to locate some.

           

          Jeff  Buck Construction 

             Artistry in Carpentry

                  Pgh, PA

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