During a recent remodel job I replaced 1/4 inch plywood walls with 5/8 inch drywall in a 65 year old home. Also I had to shim some studs to plumb walls. Now I have the drywall “proud” of the doorjambs anywhere from 1/4″ to 1/2″ in some areas. I plan to install 2 1/4″ colonial casing but it doesn’t lay flat against the jamb for nailing and obviously there is these gaps. One idea I have is to shim the gaps when I nail the casing to the jamb and then run a bead of caulk, carefully, to fill in this gap which I will paint over. Will this be a good approach or is there a better way? Did I miss something with the drywall installation to cause this problem. Hoping to be not so proud soon.
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Nothing you overlooked....replacing 1/4" DW with 5/8" DW is going to leave you in this exact situation.
Do not try to shim and caulk....because that is what it will look like was done when you are finished.
What you'll need to do is rip some 3/4" stock down to approx. 3/8" strips, and apply them to the jamb in order to extend jamb flush with wall surface. To find out the actual rip required, place a flat edge at various points around jamb against the wall. Measure out from jamb to flat edge. Find your average measurement and rip strips to this thickness.
Apply the rips around the jamb using wood glue and brads. I typically use a small reveal as your not likely going to be able to keep the rip flush all the way round. Once thats set, apply trim nailing through extensions and into door jamb.
Good luck to ya!
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
I agre 100% with the simple extension jambs.
just plain what's needed here.
But ... I'd measure for the fattest gap ... and rip all three sides ...
top and both legs ... the same.
Easier ... better fit.
let any gaps be at the casing/wall intersection rather than the casing/jamb intersection.
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
Wow! 59 posts after you summed it up in one short paragraph, with the addition of Bucks. The beat goes on.
Throw in whether or not you pull or push the coping saw and you've got a novel.
Makes the jlc forum look tame, no?A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
ask about push or pull on the coping saw?
you might as well ask about sidewinder vs. wormdrive
LOL
Second Novel in that series would be
The Proper Way to Store Extention Cords .
DAVE
Store 'em or roll 'em up?A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Always appreciate your dry sense of humor, so what is it for your gin martini's shaken or stirred
Sense of humor? Man, I was being serious.
And please, no more shaken or stirred.
Passing out cigars yet?A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Not yet, finished painting the nursery today, hardwood flooring on Tuesday night, base on Thurs. night. Baby can come friday or anytime after.
Ah, you're one of those deadline kinda guys too.
A month of so ago I finished a job in a nursery at 5, she delivered 3am the following morning.
Timing is everything.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
I've a new solution. Power plane the back of the moulding on the wall side. That's the way I've always done it, doesn't interfere with the jamb nor the plasterboard.
"I've a new solution. Power plane the back of the moulding on the wall side. That's the way I've always done it, doesn't interfere with the jamb nor the plasterboard"You'll power plane 3/8" off a 9/16" thick casing and have 3/16" casing showing as a finished product?Joe Carola
re: answer to piffin
Richard,I wasn't knocking what you said. You gave your solution by saying that you always plane the back of the casing. So I asked you would you plane 3/8" off the back of a piece of 9/16" casing leaving 3/16 of casing as a finished product?You didn't answer. Would you do that and leave 3/16" left as a finished product and think that it looks nice? Yes or No?For me I would never do that. That's all. Maybe planing no more than 1/8" was what you were talking about. I don't know. What's your answer?Joe Carola
I want to watch while you demonstrate hopw to plane 1/2" off of a casing only 9/16" thick!I'll bring a smile and the popcorn
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It can however be part of the total solution.
I've found that whenever I make a suggestion all the knockers come a runnin.
Sorry, You just happened to walk in the door as we were throwing a shovelfull of debris out of it. that can work at times, but I think in this instance as asked by the OP, it was not an appropriate solution.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
You are of course right, my problem was in that I don't think in imperial, but metric, not that I can't convert, I just didn't pay enough attention in the beginning.
I wonder where Housenut1 is?
DAVE
Scratching his head
In the past I have used one of those POS Stanley Surform "planes" to shave away some sheetrock when it was slightly proud of the jamb, but never a 1/2" worth. You might be happier using jamb extentions rather than shimming the casing and caulking the gap.
in vino veritas
¼" is an acceptable bend for 2¼" casing IMO. I would flatten the offending drywall with a hammer so the back of the casing lays flat. Be careful not to make any hammer marks in the drywall that will not be covered by the casing.
½" is another story. I would recommend cutting shim stock to build out the jamb.
The trickiest part is of course the miter at the top of the door. If the drywall or the jamb is proud at the miter... the casing will not fit easily. So if you are to cut shim stock to build out the jamb keep the miter points in mind. If the casing bends in or out at the bottom of the door, it is likely you will be the only one who will see it after the job is done.
Gord
Call your local door/window manufacturing company and ask them for some jamb extensions of the thickness you need. They usually have them on the shelf here.
Troy Sprout
Square, Level & Plumb Renovations
Now they have a 3/8" extenision does noone have a table saw
Housenut, I'm not a big fan of jamb extensions. I might be inclined to bevel the drywall if there weren't too many windows to do. If there were a lot, I'd use the 3/8" suggestion.
Beveling the drywall isn't really that hard, but it's messy. In the end, it's six of one half dozen of the other if you're only comparing time. Ultimatly, when your done, the job will look the same if you do it right. Technically, the casings will have a deeper angled appearance but nothing so drastic that it would affect the aesthetics.
blue
If you deside that the gap is big enough that you will go with the jam extentions just make them yourself. by the time you make the phone call to the door guys you could have set the saw and riped them all. i have done both methods all depends on the gap size. 1/2 inch i think demads the extention. i always have a reveal from the edge of the door jam and the extention and then a reveal from the jam extention to the edge of the trim. Too often it is obvious that there was a peace put in if you try to hide it. the double reveil makes it look "on purpose"
we would also do a double reveal with the jamb extensions
and we'd rip those skinny extensions with our EZ guideMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
What I do is buy some 3/8” x 7/8” colonial or clam shell stop and nail the square side on the inside of the jamb with a reveal and then nail your casing on top of that with a reveal. This way you don’t have to rip anything and saves you time.
If you remove 3/8” worth of sheetrock you will have nothing but trouble with all your miters because the casing is on a big angle and all your miters will not be 45°.
I would not use stop molding. The price they charge for it is too high. If you need a bunch and don't have time or equipment, the shims can be purchased from a manufacturer or a decent lumberyard. The cheapest way is to run a piece of 3/4 pine through the table saw, and it allows each window or door unit to be customized. Some may be 1/4", some 3/8", some 1/2".
As far as the reveals, it can be done with one reveal or two. Most people (?) seem to prefer the reveal where the shim lays on the jamb, but push the molding to the edge of the shim, no reveal there.
Don K.
Don,It sounds like he's talking about one door. I was suggesting if he had a 3/8" gap to use stop because it's a quick and easy solution.He wont go broke over three pieces of stop. To do one door and not have to use a table saw would be worth it for me any way. Now if he has a whole house to do and every opening is ranging from 1/4" - 1/2" then doing what you said is a great way to do it getting all 3/4" stock and making anything you want which is what I have always done in the past also.Joe Carola
If you remove 3/8” worth of sheetrock you will have nothing but trouble with all your miters because the casing is on a big angle and all your miters will not be 45°.
Its not really that much trouble JOe. If you bevel the sheetrock, it does cause the casing to have an angle that must be dealt with when you make the mitre cut. In those cases, I simply lift the casing by placing a 3/8 thin strip of wood under it when i cut it to emulate the angle that is dictated by the wall being proud.
My only consideration would be the amount of drywall debris that I was creating. If it was a rough floor situation, I probably wouldn't mind. But, if it was an existing home, with carpet and furniture, I might opt for the extension jambs.
Either way, when I'm done the thing will look good. One way has an extra seam on the jamb, the other has a deeper profile on the casing. I'd prefer to eliminate the extra seam on most applications.
blue
Blue,I've done it before but I was just letting him know that he will have to adjust his miters because you tilt the casing. Also I cut the sheetrock back before the end of the casing first and then remove it.The bottom line here is that there are plenty of options here that everyone has given so far and they all work. Sledgeamatic thinks that adding an extension is not Fine Homebuilding which is a bunch of garbage. I love to see how many people here on this forum would rip all the doors out that they didn't figure on doing in their price for free or has at least one time in their career put a little extension jamb on.If you go to look at a job and see that the jambs will be short, then you would have to figure the job two ways. The first way is figured for ripping the doors out and making new jambs. The second way is just adding an extension jamb.If the customer wants go for the price to rip the doors out fine if not and they want you to install extension jambs that’s fine also. A guy like Sledgeamatic would probably turn the job down.Joe Carola
Edited 1/15/2006 8:18 am ET by Framer
Am I the only one left that uses a block plane to fit miters?
Knock the snot out of the drywall hang the casing (2 1/4in.-?),fit the miter ,nail it up .
DAVE
"Am I the only one left that uses a block plane to fit miters?"I don't know. Take a poll.Joe Carola
I'm not sure how to do that !
But I would be interested .
SCMS made lots of trim carpenters !
DAVE
That's finme up to maybe a quarter inch is all. This job goes up to a half inch
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DPR, I was taught to use a block plane to fit mitres. I'm not sure I'd do them like I was taught, but occasionally, nothing is easier than hitting the casing with a good old fashioned block plane.
blue
Hit it with a sledge.
>>Am I the only one left that uses a block plane to fit miters?No, there might be 2 of us. I just did a few today just like you described.
there ya go i trim everyday hang doors and case all the time not to much of the small casing like 2 3/8 but any way smash the drywall naile er on
Joe-
I'm trimming a job right now in No. Plainfield where the GC ordered the doors, and I've gotta make them fit. The jambs are too narrow for the old openings, so I'm going to be making 3/8-1/2" extension strips for them.
I really don't see where this is all that big of a deal, and I didn't figure on making new jambs for this job.
In other words, I agree with you.
Shep,I agree with me also..............;-)"I really don't see where this is all that big of a deal, and I didn't figure on making new jambs for this job."Then make them for free and you'll be a Fine Homebuilder..........;-)Joe Carola
i think the guy who rips out doors for free is on crack
I agree. If you ask me, a house the needs extension jambs is simply a tear-down. Anything less is hack.
Must be the weather. Seems they're all coming out lately. It always seems that the guys who have to tell me how good they are, how professional they are, how high their standards are...... can't even get to a job on time, let alone perform.View Image
wow.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
I was talking to Joe Glennon yesterday and he said that it was 14.00 per door extra to have the jambs made the right size and one week delivery time.Every lumber yard can order any size jamb you want. If you had 20 doors to hang it would cost 280.00 extra for the doors. For me I would spend the 280.00 instead of making extensions for 20 doors.Joe Carola
Up here it will take and extra $30/door and three weeks time.Been an exciting thread. I just had to check in and see why such a simple question was taking fourty soem posts to answer. I was twice as puzzling when I saw that the answer happened in the first reply. Must be some cabin fever with the storm this weekend!
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
"Been an exciting thread. I just had to check in and see why such a simple question was taking fourty soem posts to answer. I was twice as puzzling when I saw that the answer happened in the first reply. Must be some cabin fever with the storm this weekend!"Piffin,Some people think they have to prove how good they think they are instead of just giving out an answer to help soemone even though it might not be what they would want to do something.I don't trim every day and I also don't frame every day. But I've done enough trim over the years on old houses and new houses where you have to make good with what you have and ripping out doors and there casings on the other side is seldom done unless specified buy the Architect, Homeowner or Builder.I've even done jobs where I had to replace doors in an old house where the top of the doors and jambs were so out of level on some jobs that I would cut the jamb and casings down on the high side to level and then hang the new door nice and level.I've also done jobs where nothing was to be done with the top of the jamb and I had to cut the new doors out of square to fit the opening. Maybe not my choice but that's was I was hired to do so I did it.Joe Carola
If I had orderd the doors, I would havedone my best to make sure I got the right jamb width. Burt I'm stuck with what's there.
Actually, in this situation, I probably would have just gotten door blanks and hung them myself. There's a lot of weird trim that I'm going to have to rip, and bevel, and fit.
But I didn't give the GC a fixed price- I'm working by the day. So he'll get what he wants, and I'll make him ( and the HO) happy.
Say hello to Joe Glennon.
"But I didn't give the GC a fixed price- I'm working by the day. So he'll get what he wants, and I'll make him ( and the HO) happy."That's all that matters.I'll talk to Joe tomorrow and tell him that we're talking bad about him and spreading rumors on the internet..........;-)Joe Carola
Do that.
I wouldn't want Joe to think that we're gettin' all soft and fuzzy in our old ages. :)
Is Rich Labelle still in Oldwick, too?
Shep,Did you know that Joe has a twin brother?Rich is gone. Stay worm today inside. I'll think of you as I'm installing rafters today.Joe Carola
I knew Joe had a brother. I didn't know he was a twin. I think Joe's dad and brother are both better golfers than Joe :)
Sometimes its really nice to be able to work inside. Like on these cold days, or those rainy days. But on those nice days, when I'm working inside, well, I can get jealous. I usually end up outside on miserable days, and inside on the nice ones. Can't seem to get the weather right.
We gotta meet sometime, even if its just for coffee.
Joe, I agree, it's possible to add extension jambs in a way that doesn't exclude a quality installation.
When I made my suggestions, I thought I was talking about window extension jambs. If it was interior doors, I'd most likely loosen the door jambs and push them flush on one side (the hinge side naturally), then add an extension on the other side.
There are many ways to skin a cat.
blue
"If it was interior doors, I'd most likely loosen the door jambs and push them flush on one side (the hinge side naturally), then add an extension on the other side."That's an option but by doing that you'll have to cut the casing free on the other side and slip the extension jambs in between. There's nothing wrong with nailing extesion jambs on the hinged side at all.Joe Carola
I'd most likely loosen the door jambs and push them flush on one side (the hinge side naturally), then add an extension on the other side.
That was my original thought.....but, in thinking about responding, I thought that perhaps someone who isn't sure how to handle extending jambs, is not likely prepared to rehang doors.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
"I thought that perhaps someone who isn't sure how to handle extending jambs, is not likely prepared to rehang doors."Are you refering to sledgehammer and dgbuilder or the OP, who seems mysteriously absent
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I think the OP decided to run before he got some of the stuff being flung around here on him.(:->
The OP.....was he/she a newbie?
Prolly can't find his/her way back in.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
First messages adressed to him have been read.
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Here's another option: add the jamb extension to the casing itself. You will need to temporarily add it to the outside edge also in order to cut the proper miters. Remove it from the outside edge after cutting the miters.
For the inside edge, don't worry about keeping the jamb extension lined up with the casing. Glue the 2 pieces together and after the glue sets, you can use a table saw, planer or sander to align the edges.
-Don
1/2" extensions on the hinge side? Uck.
Why would you put jamb extentions on the hinge side at all---flush the door to the hinge side and jamb extend the neutral side--Mike" I reject your reality and substitute my own"
Adam Savage---Mythbusters
The discussion was about drywall sticking out past the jambs. You said:
flush the door to the hinge side and jamb extend the neutral side--
Could you explain what you mean by this. I think maybe you're referring to the installation of a door, but that's not the case here. the case here is casing.
-Don
Honest I read the thread--I really did--have no idea how I got the idea that the door was being rehung--Dang NyQuil (R)---In later light I see the door is in and the wall are thicker on both sides so never mind my ill head.Mike" I reject your reality and substitute my own"
Adam Savage---Mythbusters
I do what JC recommended in post #2.
It's quite easy and provieds a couple more "steps" or shadow lines in the trim.
It's faster, a lot cleaner, and a lot easier than beating and/or sureform-ing the gypsum into submission.
We see this all the time in remodeling basements that have paneling. If the wall is standard 2x4 framing, then the door jambs are narrower than standard. As stated previously, the jamb extensions will give you a headache on the hinge side.
There is really only one good solution. Replace with a new prehung door or make new jambs and rehang the door. A decent carpenter can do this almost as quickly as the various band-aid solutions.
DG/Builder
"There is really only one good solution. Replace with a new prehung door or make new jambs and rehang the door. A decent carpenter can do this almost as quickly as the various band-aid solutions."There's many solutions but wouldn't you say that yours is very expensive and and adding way more work then you have to for just a simple solution buy just packing out the jamb? Why would you do all that work just for that?Joe Carola
Edited 1/14/2006 1:50 pm ET by Framer
"There's many solutions but wouldn't you say that yours is very expensive and and adding way more work then you have to for just a simple solution buy just packing out the jamb? Why would you do all that work just for that?"
Is this Fine Home Building or Cheap & Simple Home Building? I could make a kitchen cabinet out of a plastic milk crate... It's cheap and simple... but I'm not going too.
Mr. Fine Homebuilder,Since you were quoting me. This is a forum and it's also a forum where a lot of DIY'er's participate also. Using 3/8" for an extension jambs on a 65 year old house is not sh!t work. Maybe the original poster doesn't have it figured in his price to rip out the whole door and buy a new one or rip it apart and make new extension jambs. So a simple solution would be to add an extension jamb. If the homeowner doesn't like it then the poster will have to deal with that.In the mean time since your to good to add a little extension jamb and it's beneath your Fine Homebuilding expertise you can try and sell the customer buy ripping out all the old doors and either buying new ones or you just making new jambs instead of adding an extension jamb or you can just rip out all the doors you want for free because you don't like extension jambs.
Joe Carola
Joe,
Here is the real-world reality when I'm doing the job, not just talking about it on a forum:
1. Extending the jambs on both sides will give you a real problem on the hinge side. Nobody addressed that.
2. It takes my carpenter about an hour to rip out the jambs (there is no casing at this point), make new jambs out of clear 1x, mortise for hinges and lock, install and move on to the casing. It takes longer for the glue alone to dry in the band-aid alternatives. So I don't charge the client any more to do it the right way.
3. If the jambs were painted previously, there is likely paint on the corners and a little on the side of the jamb. So you need to sand/clean up the sides of the jamb before you attach the extensions. More wasted time.
4. On a house 65 yrs old there is a 90% likelihood that the jambs are not square/plumb and the door doesn't close properly. When we replace the jamb we remedy that at zero extra charge.
For talking purposes, there are many possible solutions. When you have to do the job, not so much.
DG/Builder
I understand and know how to take a door out and do all that. In this guys case he may have one door or he may have 6 doors. So for one door maybe he can take the door out and do that. But if he has six doors, I doubt that it was in his price to do that and extension jambs will be the way to go.I've put extnded jambs on the hinged side before and they do not touch the back of the hinge because they were set back for a reveal. So how would extending jambs on the hinged side be a problem?How do we even know that the door has to be extended on the hinge side anyway?Joe Carola
Agree with you but the problem I see with say a half inch bumpout puts the hinge screws into very little (if any) meat of the jamb and certainly misses the stud behind except for the center screw.
Bob
I'm talking about an existing door and just adding an extension to it, not moving the hinge anywhere. It doesn't affect the screws at all. Take a look at one of your doors right now and just visualize taking off the casing and putting on a piece of 3/8 stop or whateber you want to use set back with a reveal and you will see that it doesn't touch your hinge at all even when you open the door.Joe Carola
Must have had brain flat**. Was not giving full consideration to sufficient reveal to clear hinge and was thinking about new hinge. Said I agreed with you (:-).
Isn't parting bead about right for the extension being discussed? My problem/difficulty with ripping these ext's is finding clear pine.
Edited 1/14/2006 7:36 pm ET by rasconc
Edited 1/14/2006 7:37 pm ET by rasconc
"Isn't parting bead about right for the extension being discussed? My problem/difficulty with ripping these ext's is finding clear pine."That's why I use clear pine colonial stop for this. Look at #50.http://www.ringsend.com/mouldings.php#pineJoe Carola
Nice link. If you need a little more go for 57 which is 1/2 by 3/4. Most of the stop I have seen around here is wider than the one you show, thanks.
Bob
Doesn't matter one door or many. We do it the right way at the same price we would charge for the band-aid. It just doesn't take us more labor hours.
Yes, a reveal would clear the hinge except the hinge is no longer in the right place, which some people notice and some don't. But if you offset edge-glue 2 pieces of 3/4" stock without cutting a rabbet into the extension piece, I don't know about keeping an even reveal. You have to clamp it or nail it carefully. Maybe the old jamb isn't flat. Now you have to bend the new piece carefully to follow the old jamb. And on and on. By the time you check the old jamb for flat, square and plumb, my guy has the job half done and you haven't even started.
Now if we're talking DIY, where the guy has limited tools and experience but lots of time available at zero $/hr, then yes I can see doing extensions.
DG/Builder
So you're saying that let's say there was 6 doors and one side had to be packed out, you will rip out the whole door including all the trim on the other side and make new jambs and then set the doors back and probably have to caulk paint the other side also for nothing?Well, God Bless you then. You seem like a smart guy and I am sure you would know all this about the jambs and would naturally figure it in your price anyway. I'm all for doing the right thing also and in this case if I didn't figure it in my price before hand then shame on me and I eat it. If I'm doing work for another contractor and he just wants me to use extension jambs then that's what my price will include.Like I said before, in this guys situation not really knowing what it is, he might have one door to fix or he might have six. If he not going to take the door/doors out and wants a solution then putting extension jambs on is one way or cutting the sheetrock out and nailing on the casing where the casing sits on an angle is another way. Personally don't like if its 3/8" and all your miters will be less than 45°. I would go with the stops for extension jambs.Joe Carola
Joe, the original poster didn't give full info. He did say he's redone the place so we're assuming the problem is on both sides of the wall. He also said the walls weren't plumb when he started, so I will bet you dollars to donuts the door isn't plumb or square. He did say there is no casing on at least one side.
If the other side is good, you now have to match old casing (or have it mismatched) and you have your reveal on one side only. Not a quality job if you ask me. I do grant you that the poster does sound like a DIY and assuming this is a basement or he is not too concerned with the finished look, and the door more or less closes OK, and so on, then sure, do extensions. But then again, if he's not too picky, let him pack the gap with caulk like he wanted to in the first place :)
DG/Builder
This DIY isn't even suggesting 3/4" casing stock. He is using 2-1/2" colonial casing which is only 9/16"
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Quote:
This DIY isn't even suggesting 3/4" casing stock. He is using 2-1/2" colonial casing which is only 9/16"
Let's pay attention now. Nobody is talking about casing stock. I was talking about the jamb extensions. Which I would normally rip out of 3/4" (1x) clear pine, which we always have on hand at job sites where we do any trim.
Man, that red thing at the bottom of every post of yours is really annoying...
DG/Builder
this one?
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
here's what you said -"Yes, a reveal would clear the hinge except the hinge is no longer in the right place, which some people notice and some don't. But if you offset edge-glue 2 pieces of 3/4" stock without cutting a rabbet into the extension piece, I don't know about keeping an even reveal. You have to clamp it or nail it carefully. Maybe the old jamb isn't flat. Now you have to bend the new piece carefully to follow the old jamb. And on and on. By the time you check the old jamb for flat, square and plumb, my guy has the job half done and you haven't even started."I can have an old jamb in place cleaned of paint with sharp scraper, new extension material ripped and planned, glued and pinned in place with an even reveal ready for paint in less than half an hour
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I did it in 29 minutes, 50.4 seconds! But yours looks better than mine. ;-)
That's 'cause you ae so humble
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
I can have an old jamb in place cleaned of paint with sharp scraper, new extension material ripped and planned, glued and pinned in place with an even reveal ready for paint in less than half an hour
Is that for one side (3 pieces) or both sides of the door? And how long does it take you after that to plumb and square the door/jamb?
Even if you can do both sides, you charge the customer half hour labor and the HO has 1. A door jamb that's patched up and looks patched up and 2. A door that's just as out of square and plumb as before. I charge the HO for an hour of labor plus $10 material and he has a perfectly fit door with no extraneous reveals. My clients are willing to pay for the extra half hour.
I have no problem with the patch-up method. I see it done all the time in basements. Matter of fact, we get to redo many of those. More work for us. No problem.
Yeah, that red thing is annoying. No so much how it looks, but it takes up a lot of room when you scroll through the thread. Should be prohibited as a form of not-for-profit advertising :)
DG/Builder
I will agree with your point that if the door is out of whack, it is better to pull it and reset it, Do that a lot too, but there has been no indication from this owner that this is the case here. But your contention that the extension is a poor product is just plain wrong. Maybe when you do it, it looks poor. But so far you've heard for a good dozen or more builders here who do it in a qualioty manner all the time. I'm sure that I have done more thana hundred. We build our own doors at time, mill new jambs when needed, mill architectural moldings to match, and satisfy some of the most wealthy and discerning customers in this country. I have had more than one architect admire my detail work.So there is no criticism from you on a method that I know full well works fine that will mean beans to me. I find your contention that every door every wher has to be replace to make it right to be somewhat amusing.Hope you don't lose anymore sleep over my sig line or the fact that the rest of the world doesn't always see things your way. Enjoy your work.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
oh come on you can't tell me that i hang doors everyday it takes me 10 mins a door and the casing is cut to .I cant rip out a jamb make a new one faster than i can make a filler and nail it on and why would you wait till the glue dries anyway when you put the casing you glue it to
Seems we found the difference between "Framer"s and trim carpenters doesn't it....
;-)
"Seems we found the difference between "Framer"s and trim carpenters doesn't it...."The difference here is that I'm a good Framer and also a good Trimmer....Joe Carola
With a name like sledgehammer, that comment is about as appropriate as eating pudding with a manure shovel
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
about 98% of my work is Fine and betterI consider your solution to this problem ridiculous. we work with things like this ion renovation all the time and there is absolutely no problem making up an extension jamb for this and having it look and work great. Most hinges have enough throw on the hinge projection and barrel to allow for up to an inch thickness of trim and let the door function and lay back flat against the wall. That said, most doors hinge to lay against an intersecting wall anyway.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
now if it is a old house with nice old doors you just rip em out and replace?????
Toolpouch, this is a 1940 house with the walls out of plumb and covered with 1/4" ply when he started. That's what the poster said. How "nice" of a door do you think that is? I'm guessing a basement and a very plain door with jambs out of square or plumb. We're not talking historical restoration here.
I would not replace the door for free. If the HO is OK with the door, I would just replace the jambs for the same price I would charge him to put jamb extensions on both sides (about an hour labor).
Now one of the other posters had a good point. If the guy shimmed the walls plumb for drywall and you now need to cut tapered jamb extensions, the reveal would make it look really stupid. So... you may not have a choice. I guess what we're saying here is that in spite of the many opinions, if we were all in the guy's house and knew all the details and had to actually do it, we might all end up doing the same thing. Just hard to say what that may be, depending on the circumstances. We're just guessing. But it's fun.
DG/Builder
ya very true i guess you can take 100 carpenters and all have to do the same job .
you will get the same product in the end but 100 differnt methods to do it .
Good point.
I am amazed that it took this long. Its not how you produce it, its the quality of what you produce that determines how much will be paid for the result. Opinions are like personalities, everybody has a different one.
The CM
I think you missed something in the drywall install. Need to plan ahead next time.
Why did you replace 1/4 with 5/8?
"Pride goeth before the fall." J. D. Reynolds had good advice as far as making strips as "jamb extensions." Good Luck!
Rip extension jambs. Scrape, glue, nail (fill if necessary) and you're done, quicker than it would take to read all of the entertaining "ideas."
Billy
Now I'm having second thoughts about the extension jambs, unless something it done to make them one size.
I wouldn't want an extension jamb ripped from 1/4" to 1/2", just so I did'nt have to reset the jamb. Is this what anyone here would do?
blue
Blue, I think I've stayed out of this discussion, tho I can't be sure.
This is the plight or challenge of the remodeler. And we don't have a couple days and usually not a dozen or two opinions on the matter to toss about.
The right decision in a timely manner is the story.
More fun than one man should enjoy.
Should be illegal.
How the heck you been? Coming down our way in the near future?A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Cal, I don't have any plans on traveling anywere in the midwest anytime soon. I'm looking at a couple of months of framing and I'm still waiting to co-ordinate some time to re-visit the southwest, specifically San Antonio. Our schedule just aren't jiving and since we've cut our staffing to non-existant, I'm basically a slave to the schedule again.
Life is nothing more than a series of viscous cycles!
blue
But OH MY GOD, is that ANOTHER thread on JAMB EXTENSIONS I see
No, the extension jamb can be ripped to 3/8" and it will be fine for a 1/4 to 1/2 inch mismatch if the existing jamb is plumb. If the jamb is not plumb then I might rip it from 1/4 to 1/2 inch if it will make it plumb. The door may need to be rehung. This is a basement, not a living room.
Billy
From the original post I can't tell if he did one room or the whole house but I never read basement.
The OP only posted the first post, unless there was one deleted, and it had no mention of basement. This has been like a game of "conversation".
All right, I'm sorry for calling anyone a hack....
Today I cut a piece of baseboard 1/2" short... so I just stuck a piece in to make up the difference...
I now know exellence... cause the house was owned by a really really rich architect that thought it looked wonderful when I pointed it out ...
Thanks all.
sledge. What seems to be your problem?A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
My problem???
Seems to be the level of difficulty presented by making a door jamb the correct thickness.
But heck... I cut a counter top 1/2" short and just stuck a piece on and now all is good...
I'm proud I don't cut corners, and if I did, I certainly wouldn't advertise it on an internet message board....
but that's just me... sorry.
Here's the problem as I'm seeing it. No one is talking about doing shoddy work like leaving a 1/2'' gap on base or a counter. The discussion is about jamb extensions or the possibility of using them.
Would you not agree that with perfect casing on one side of a door, that it would be foolish to rip the jamb out in order to set a new jamb (that would be good with both sides of the wall surface?
Would you maybe agree that in remodeling where the end result is a good job, that field decisions are made according to the situations presented and budget limitations?
I would agree that perfect would be close enough, but unlimited bounderies are not available all the time. I'll even assume you could do what you say you can in the time you claim. Commendable by the way.
The problem seems to be your willingness to argue rather than discuss.
But what the hell do I know, just a dumb carpenter.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Sometimes there can be a reason to rip the extension tapered or to taper it in place by using the sole of the plane on the wall finish surfacce, but usually it is best to keep the extension the same dimension and let the casing beadjusted. I can bevel in slightly with mashing the SR or it can stand free of the SR with the tip of a shim behind it at each outside nail and caulk. Better to have that caulk on the far outside of the casing than seeing it right in your face between casing and jamb.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
good lord paul, now you mention caulk.
There goes another 50 posts in the #### hole.
Why couldn't you have left well enough alone.
And at your age too.
A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
I'll rest now, LOL
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Good.
Lest that shoulder acts up. Been noticing more @'s and 2's in your words. That one finger typing is a bich.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
This thread is a fine example of those who cheerfully put themselves on a pedestal as being fine craftsmen that will cut a corner when necessary. Sorry boyz. Hanging a door or 6 or 12 correctly ain't gonna send me to the poor house. I know what I'm looking at even if rich people or an architects can't see a corner cut.
2 things I hope... first I get a picture of your work... second I get to bid against you in the future...
Hacks.
You'll never get to bid against me. I don't bid. My customers seek me out. At my price.You want pictures?Need to learn how it's done, eh?
glad to oblige.Psst, since you are the one bragging, how 'bout showing off your own stuff?
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
hack.
;-)--------------------------
It's only satisfying if you eat it.
Ah, so goes the life of a remodeler. In the past, I have had good luck with parting stop as a jamb extension. You can by it in 16' lengths and it is 1/2" x 3/4". if you need smaller than 1/2", you will have to go with ripping the actual size from a 1" x board. If you are close to the 1/2" size, the parting stop works great because it is already finish sanded on all sides.With the table saw you usually get saw marks which you need to sand if you leave a reveal. Hope this helps.
You are about 72 posts late.
http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=68239.31