I have been doing a bit of home redecorating, removing wallpaper and large areas of primer has come away and is flaking off the gypsum, especially at the joints. The plaster is quite powdery.
Given that I have to sand and fill theses areas flush the the solid primed area, how can I re-prime to ensure a stable primed surface for the future?
Replies
What primer are you using?
“The richest genius, like the most fertile soil, when uncultivated, shoots up into the rankest weeds..” – Hume
The primer was put on 18yrs ago when the house was built, I can't swear in court but I am pretty sure it was Para. I currently have a pale of Behr I was going to use to reprime.
Use a good quality oil-based primer.
I have been doing a bit of home redecorating, removing wallpaper and large areas of primer has come away and is flaking off the gypsum, especially at the joints. The plaster is quite powdery.
I'm not sure I understand what you're saying. The primer is flaking off of the gypsum? Do you mean that the primer didn't stick to the drywall (which is paper-faced, the gypsum is the core) or it didn't stick to the joint compound.
If it didn't stick to the paper, there's something wrong with the primer. If it didn't stick to the joint compound, then the taping/spackling wasn't done quite right. I suspect this is the case since you said the "plaster" is powdery, but I assume you mean joint compound, not plaster.
Sand any loose joint compound, dust it off well with a dry rag (do not use water unless you really know what you're doing because that's a common cause of failure), prime with a good latex primer (oil is an option, but shouldn't really be necessary) , re-spackle as needed, re-prime and paint.
-Don
Thanks Don, that is precisely my problem. The water-based primer is 'failing at the compound areas. I have taken off quite large areas with a putty knife, back to where the primer is firmly adhered. That is, back to where the compound ends and the drywall board (paper) starts.
I am going to reprime the entire wall areas, but was thinking of spot-priming the damaged areas first. Could I use oil-based for the spot priming, and then a coat of acrylic primer all over? I intend then to finish with an acrylic paint.
I was also thinking of giving the compound areas affected a "wash" with a thincoat of cellulose filler (for example Polyfilla). Would this do any good? or is there a potential trouble with that?
I recently used Behr's primer on a new drywall area that I finished, then put on two coats of latex wall paint. The paint peeled off like a skin anywhere that there was joint compound. I switched to PVA Primer and haven't had a problem.“The richest genius, like the most fertile soil, when uncultivated, shoots up into the rankest weeds..” – Hume
I had a similar problem with the primer lifting off of the joints... using SW primer... haven't used primer since.
Seemed like it was too think and wouldn't soak in for a bite. Now I use cheap flat paint for primer.
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If this is a bathroom (high water vapor area), or if you have wallpaper paste remaining, you will be better off using an oil based primer.It is best to fully remove the wallpaper paste.I'm wondering if the original primer was applied to soon after the joint compound, or if the joint compound was somehow compromised.
I was also thinking of giving the compound areas affected a "wash" with a thincoat of cellulose filler (for example Polyfilla). Would this do any good? or is there a potential trouble with that?
I'm not familiar with that product. Maybe someone else can answer.
Oil primers generally have superior adhesion and hiding. I'm thinking that it shouldn't be necessary, but I agree with what BryanSayer had to say here:
http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=79662.11
-Don
I have done a number of wallpaper removals. Typically 20-30 years old.I have no idea of what kind of primer was used, but this is not uncommon.
????
You have a drywall question but you talk about the plaster flaking off, then the dryweall compound.
I'm less confused about the primer than I am about the material under it.
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Yes Piffin, you are right. I am talking about problems at the joints and patches with the primer coming away from the compound.
Zinnser has a new primer sealer and its called Guardz. it should take care of the paste residue. try their website.