what happend here? This is the top butted end of two pieces of drywall. I put drywall up before I put the cabinets in and put a coat of paint on it. I was going to do the kitchen in stages.
6 months later this bubble appears. It almost looks like the drywall pushed apart and came together and pushed the tape out. This joint is perpendicular to the floor joists above (2×10?).
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can't help you with drywall but I can resize your photo...
View Image
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Don't know for sure, but we always butt rock on a joist... not perpendicular.
I can't tell what I'm looking at. There appears to be a horizontal indentation, but you referred to a "bubble".
Over on the left side of the pic there's what appears to be joint compound in a taper, but it's not at the end of the board where the taper would be.
And what's that discoloration below the horizontal indentation in the center?
Maybe a picture just can't convey enough information, but if I had to take a WAG, I would say it looks like some kind of stress damage.
Thanks for resizing it for me.
It is the tape pushed forward, not an indentation. To emphasize the bubble I put a light behind the outward V. That may account for some of the discoloration. I also put on some mis-mix latex paint (1$ at home depot) to seal the drywall compound under the cabinets. I put masking tape up to keep it away from the taper.
To the left that is a taper. I am going to finish the ceiling after I get more cabinets built. What I have is two 4x8 sheets end to end. The corners, and screw holes are all intact.
This is called 'ridging'. It happens because of the movement of the underlying framing due to expansion and contraction caused by humidity and temperature changes.
Ridging can occur on tapered joints but is more common on butt joints. It usually stops after six months to a year, and once it has stabilised, the ridged joint can be blended into the gyprock surface by applying mud to both sides of the ridge and feathering it out into the panel using a wide knife.
Many professional rockers use a technique called 'back blocking' to minimise ridging in butt joints. This involves locating butt joints between joists or studs, and using a back-blocking device (available at gyprock supply houses or you can make your own out of 1x or scrap pieces of gyprock) to pull the joint back below the plane of the gyprock panels.
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not brought
low by this? For thine evil pales before that which
foolish men call Justice....
I have used the BUTTHANGER with great results. Obviously you can also achieve virtually the same thing with ply and wood strips.View ImageView Image
Thanks; good photos.
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....
If it is a butt it should have continuous backing and screwed at 8" max centers, especially on the ceilings. Looks to me you may have got some moisture up there.
Mike
Small wheel turn by the fire and rod, big wheel turn by the grace of god.
OK Now that I screwed up how do I fix it? The ridge is not solid and can be pushed back with your fingers. I guess I have just been lucky before with butt joints.
Do I cut it out and put in a new section with plywood backer between the studs
Cut a hole in it to get the backer in and then fix the hole
Apply more joint compund to the somewhat soft ridge
Another thing is this ceiling is 1/2" thick because I need to join into an existing area.
It appears to my non-professional (but I've taped a lot of drywall anyway) eye that you didn't get enough mud under the tape and now it's finally absorbed some interior humidity and let go.
DING DING DING
I think we have a weiner.
OP needs to cut out the bad stuff and re-do with enough mud, and more paper tape, and just a thin layer of mud if any over the paper for the first coat.
That was my thought as well. It needs to have complete contact with mud under it.
When it happens to me I cut it out after it has dried.
If it were me, at 6 bucks a sheet I'd do it over.... and I'd also prime it with primer, not cheap paint.
It looks to me you have access to reach in the attic and hold a piece of backing (plywood or 2x4) and screw the edges. Cut out the loose blistered area with your utility knife. Prefill with some hot mud, let set, tape the butt again and finish accordingly. Mike
Small wheel turn by the fire and rod, big wheel turn by the grace of god.
2 x 10's in an attic?
You should look again.
I just looked at the picture, I did not read his post again.
Sorry for the misunderstanding. I guess he'll have to cut out a section if he wants solid backing.
Thanks for keeping tabs on me, Sledge.
I'm still curious as to how to get shims behind drywall to straighten a wall out. Maybe this poster could use your method to get some backing in there, if you would be kind enough to explain. Mike
Small wheel turn by the fire and rod, big wheel turn by the grace of god.
Unless you want to tear it all out and redo it from scratch, you will need to wait till it has stabilised before you fix it, or it will just ridge out again. If this is a commercial job, you'll have to persuade the client to be patient and to trust you to come back and fix it later. (If it's in your own home, you have to convince yourself--or more likely, your DW--of the same thing.)
Generally ridging will stop after somewhere between 6 months and a year. Once it has, simply remove any loose tape, and re-mud both sides of the ridge (with 'hot mud' or setting-type joint compound, as Piffin suggested), then go over it all with standard compound, feathering it out with a 14" knife on both sides.
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....
'twas actually ruffmike who suggested redoing with hot mud, but that is where my thinking was headed. I'm still not clear on the overall situation if this is wall or ceiling and new framing or what.
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It is a kitchen ceiling in a two story house.
New framing? Old? Addition? Just hung the rock and finished it or is this an old problem just now noticed or getting around to it? If newish, how long before it showed up after the finish work? Old house with other signs of movement going on?Knowing it is a ceiling eliminates a few of my other possible causes in mind.I think you need to cut out the blister/wrinkle and use hot mud and paper tape.But if something else is causing this, I'd be finding out what and fixin g that first
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
OK What is hot mud?
"hot mud" is slang for any of various setting-type joint compounds such as Sheetrock brand Durabond or Easy Sand.
More information here and here:
Durabond in particular is strong stuff that doesn't shrink as it cures which makes it a great product to use to fill gaps between boards. I would recommend it after cleaning up the failed joint. Use it judiciously, though, because it's hard to sand. Easy Sand (as its name implies) sands easily, but it's more of a topping compound and not ideal for filling gaps or setting tape.
Is that on a roof or a wall? It is more than the simple ridging dino is talking about, IMO, But I'd have to know more about conditions and history to say exactly what.
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Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
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