Replies

1. 
   Shep | Sep 08, 2003 02:41am | #1

   chris-- I generally use all purpose joint compound for just about everything. I'm not a drywall contractor, but in my 28 yrs. of remodeling I've done a fair amount of spackling. I did my own bathroom 15 years ago with the all-purpose and its held up fine. I didn't do a textured finish so I primed once I had sanded. You should check with your texture supplier, but I think you texture over the unprimed rock, then spray any finishes on. Maybe someone else wil be able to give you more advice on texturing, since I'm not too familiar with it,( its not done a lot around here)

2. 
   woodbutch | Sep 08, 2003 03:32am | #2

   Chris,

   Your primer will go on after you apply your texture, You can use all purpose joint compound or a "Hot mud" powder mix that will speed up your setting time. With regular all purpose you can apply one coat a day, with 45 min hot mud you can do the entire bathroom in one day. You just need to know how to work with it. Good luck! Hack.

3. 
   TLJ | Sep 08, 2003 05:13am | #3

   When I was learning to spray texture, I asked around and was told to prime first. Especially when doing a light splatter (or knockdown or orange peel or whatever various names I hear), the primer prevents accelerated drying of the texture so that you've got more time to knock it down. Alternatively, if you don't like the look, the primer prevents drying so that you can take it off and start over.

   So, I've done it this way quite a few times and it works well. I'm still surprised that I don't have to prime the texture, as I thought it should be sealed before painting. However, the knockdown takes paint well and usually in one coat with a good paint.

   I'm curious about the use of green board. I've used it in wet areas before I knew what I was doing (Was that only a couple weeks ago? :), and it fell apart just as fast as regular rock. What's the general opinion? Does green board really offer any advantage over regular rock?

1. 
   toast953 | Sep 08, 2003 08:23am | #4

   Tim,  my two cents, I'am not a fan of green bd. Short story- new comm const, sauna room, all the wall tiles started to buckle off the wall, except one small area. When the builder went to gut the "new"sauna rm, he noticed that the one small area, where the tiles were still tight to the wall, It appeared that the drywallers had shorted out on green board, and had just hung regular drywall. go figure will ya, I also do not know how that would get past our local city inspectors. Jim J

1. 
   TLJ | Sep 12, 2003 04:57am | #6

   There must be some science to the use of green board. When I've the time and the inclination, I'll investigate.

2. 
   chris78681 | Sep 08, 2003 04:15pm | #5

   Tim

   I think the terminology "water resistant" can be confusing. What I have read is that greenboard is better than regular drywall for high moisture areas like bathroom walls, backsplashes etc. But it should never be used in a wet area like a shower surround. The net is full of examples of homeowners that have failing tubshower surrounds where the builder incorrectly used greenboard which later turned to mush when the grout started leaking.

   my rant:

   But I'm astounded to find out that 1/2" has to be on 12" oc framing for ceiling application. This should be printed all over the product since it's sold side by side with regular 1/2".

   The Tile Council of America has a great handbook about this stuff, it even includes steam room and flat foof construction. I had to get the handbook because I found so much conflicting information out there and I want to do my tub surround right the first time.

   thanks for your reply to my post

   Chris

4. 
   WayneL5 | Sep 12, 2003 05:16am | #7

   I've never used PVA, but had really good results with Perma-White paint.  It's self-priming.

   I'm not crazy about texture in a bathroom.  I'd never want it in my house.  It's totally uncleanable, and in a bathroom, no matter how good the paint, someday the splashed soap scum and eventual mildew will need to be cleaned.  Ask your wife if she'd like it in her bathroom.

5. 
   Zano | Sep 12, 2003 05:29am | #8

   Joint compounds are affected by humidity - setting compounds are not!  Use setting compound for a better job.  Better yet, uise DuraBond on the first 2 coats and any Easy-Sand for the final coat.

   Greenboard - all it does is hold the moisture in, very slow drying time. A waste of money. Use DensShield - plastic on one side and fiberglass reinforced.