Replies

1. 
   DanH | Mar 16, 2007 07:34pm | #1

   Not terribly unusual. Sometimes caused by an error on the part of the drywall installer, sometimes due to excessive wood shrinkage, etc, sometimes it "just happens". A common cause is using screws that are too long.

   Generally the contractor should fix this. Notify him now, but it's probably best to wait another 6 months or so to fix things, in case some more pops occur.

   How many pops? Maybe up to a half-dozen pops in a 4BR house would be more or less "normal" (though I'm sure there are folks here who would disagree). If it's 2-3 in a room that's high but not worrisome. If virtually every screw is popping then someone goofed big time.

   So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
2. 
   JTC1 | Mar 16, 2007 07:52pm | #2

   Sounds suspiciously like the drywall was not pressed firmly against the framing when installed. The nose of the screw gun needs to exert pressure on the drywall before the screw is fully set to achieve this.

   Screw "stabbing", where the operator locks the gun in the running position, feeds screws onto the bit, then stabs them into position, is a common way of screwing drywall. However, it is somewhat of an art form which not all practitioners have mastered. 

   Option #2: >>The screws are not showing and when dug out appear to be sunk about 1/8 inch under the mud.<<  My opinion only - if there is 1/8" of mud over screw heads in the field (not along a tapered seam) - the screws were overdriven (too deep) and their holding power vastly reduced.

   If you press the drywall toward the framing - does it move? pop some more screws?  If yes, methinks this is your problem - could be others.

   Jim

   Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.

    

    

    

1. 
   PaulBinCT | Mar 16, 2007 08:17pm | #3

   I agree w/ JTC, sounds like the drywall was "floating" on the framing, maybe some shrinkage of the framing as well, which is hard to avoid entirely nowadays. 

2. 
   Hudson Valley Carpenter | Mar 16, 2007 08:50pm | #4

   JTC1,

   I agree with what you've written. 

   As a carpenter who's hung his share of sheetrock on wood framing I'm curious what your preferred methods might be.  

   I like nailing the perimeter and screwing the field, a practice which suited me the best and produced excellent results.  Hanging with nails got the weight off us quickly and helped keep the pace on high.    

   Peter

    

1. 
   JTC1 | Mar 16, 2007 09:16pm | #5

   I like the nail / screw option for exactly the same reason. 

   Although I probably use fewer nails than some, and those I do use are ring shank. Top of top sheet only - 2 or 3.  Then screws for the remainder - Senco Duraspin made life a little easier for these.  DuraSpin won't do it all - still have some situations for Milwaukee gun and others for a cordless drill/driver.

   Bottom sheet gets no nails at all, drywall foot jack goes under, one foot on the jack and screws start running.

   Ceilings get glue and all screws with the Milwaukee - I seem to be able to get more "lift" if needed with it as compared to the DuraSpin.  Unless the ceiling area is really small, I rent a lift - takes all the pressure off. Small ceiling = helper, dead men or combination. I usually work alone.

   Jim

   Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light. 

    

3. 
   LEM | Mar 16, 2007 10:37pm | #6

   Thanks to all for your thoughts on my drywall question.

   Cheers, Lori