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Drywall Tapered Edge & No-Coat In…

| Posted in General Discussion on July 5, 2001 05:28am

*
(Originally I posted this at JLC Drywall Forum with no response)

Using No-Coat UltraFlex Lite for first time. I’ve read all I can about it and asked questions at the supply house. Even asked the question I’m about to ask now.

When the inside corner drywall sheet has a tapered factory edge what do you do? I was told, and, I read that you “Lay paper flap down with corner of knife”. Then, “Feather edge with thick mud”. Do you put the inside corner of the knife directly inside the corner of the Ultraflex? Or do you move just off to edge of the hard part of the UltraFlex and before the paper flap?

I was told at the supply house to move off the inside corner. But that seems to make a “trough” or slight dip running parallel to the corner’s length because of the drywall tapered edge being shallow (the No-Coat corner is lower/deeper than the rest of the drywall surface). But having the knife corner directly in the corner would actually have compound all the way into the corner and on the No-Coat hard part, which is contrary to to whole idea of using UltraFlex in the first place.

Any guidance?

TIA,
Phil

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  1. James_DuHamel | Jul 04, 2001 02:22am | #1

    *
    Personally, I'd run a coat of mud in the tapered valley and fill it up. A single coat with a 6" knife would do it. Once that has dried, and the valley is now flush with the rest of the drywall, I'd install the no-coat corner.

    What I would have done to start with would be different. I would have cut the drywall so that no tapered edge fell in the corner. In other words, I'd have cut the drywall, and put the cut side in the corner to make it flat and flush for the no-coat corners.

    Just an opinion...

    James DuHamel

    1. piffin_ | Jul 04, 2001 04:57am | #2

      *James,What about a corner at the cieling where you've got an 8' wall height. Now you've made extra work.The exact answer is a matter of technique and not specifics which is probably why you got no response. It'd take lots of words and there is no right or wrong definite. Like most areas of technique, what works for one will cause problems for another.I'd run the knife into the corner.

      1. George_Oliver | Jul 04, 2001 05:30am | #3

        *piffin, i "What about a corner at the cieling where you've got an 8' wall height. Now you've made extra work."I don't think I understand that -- explain?thanks, George O.

        1. James_DuHamel | Jul 04, 2001 07:16am | #4

          *If I have a tapered edge in the corner, then it means I have stood the panels vertically. By standing the panels vertically, I will have a simple, flush joint at the ceiling. If you are going to use the no-coat corners, then you will have this problem either at the ceiling, or at the corner. Take your pick. Panel ends are not tapered, edges are. One of the joints (either corner to corner, or ceiling to wall) will be flush (butt) and the other will be tapered. When we get to the point about adding more work, that's where I get off the bus. When I tape and float a ceiling to wall joint, or a corner joint, I do not use the no-coat corners. I use paper tape, and I float the mud out and feather the edges. After I am through, I have a nice, smooth, flat surface.He was asking what WE would do in this situation, and I told him what I would do.James DuHamel

          1. PatchoguePhil | Jul 05, 2001 05:28am | #5

            *Et al,I was refering to the wall-to-ceiling horizontal inside corners. 99% of the time I hang drywall on the walls horizontally, so the vertical inside corners won't have any tapered edges.James, I like you're idea of mudding the tapered corner first and then using the no-coat. Thanks. Since my drywall is already hung that's what I'll have to do. An extra step considering the No-Coat, but... Live and Learn.I guess one could eliminate the tapered edge being in the ceiling corner by cutting it off the top wall piece first. Then screw it in between the "field" tapered joints to make up the space that piffin was talking about. Same thing for a ceiling board at the corners.Thanks for the responses,Phil

  2. PatchoguePhil | Jul 05, 2001 05:28am | #6

    *
    (Originally I posted this at JLC Drywall Forum with no response)

    Using No-Coat UltraFlex Lite for first time. I've read all I can about it and asked questions at the supply house. Even asked the question I'm about to ask now.

    When the inside corner drywall sheet has a tapered factory edge what do you do? I was told, and, I read that you "Lay paper flap down with corner of knife". Then, "Feather edge with thick mud". Do you put the inside corner of the knife directly inside the corner of the Ultraflex? Or do you move just off to edge of the hard part of the UltraFlex and before the paper flap?

    I was told at the supply house to move off the inside corner. But that seems to make a "trough" or slight dip running parallel to the corner's length because of the drywall tapered edge being shallow (the No-Coat corner is lower/deeper than the rest of the drywall surface). But having the knife corner directly in the corner would actually have compound all the way into the corner and on the No-Coat hard part, which is contrary to to whole idea of using UltraFlex in the first place.

    Any guidance?

    TIA,
    Phil

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