Replies

1. 
   Northboundtrain | Dec 05, 2006 06:41am | #1

   Well, I'd like to get started soon, so I thought I'd bump if that's cool.

2. 
   Heck | Dec 05, 2006 06:47am | #2

   Need a little more info: What type of texture is currently under the semi gloss paint?

   Are you intending to skim coat?

   What type of new texture?

   I think I would at least make sure the walls were clean and then give them a good roughing up with a wire brush, followed by dusting them off again.

   _______________________________________________________________

   Rock is dead. Long live paper and scissors

1. 
   Northboundtrain | Dec 05, 2006 06:02pm | #4

   Thanks for the reply.  The current texture is a heavy skip-trowel, and I want to do a skim coat/smooth finish.

    

    

3. 
   DonCanDo | Dec 05, 2006 03:53pm | #3

   I like to put a coat of primer on any surface that's going to get spackled.  It's been working well for me.  However, if you take a look at the instructions (http://www.texmaster.com/magictrowel.html) for the Magic Trowel (which I have but don't use), you'll see that they actually recommend semi-gloss paint as the "prime" coat.  However again, they also recommend using a setting-type compound which is stronger.

   If it were my job, I would use real primer for insurance.  Otherwise, a little experimentation may be called for.

   -Don

1. 
   Northboundtrain | Dec 05, 2006 06:04pm | #5

   Yeah, I don't think I want to deal with setting compound.  I guess a coat of primer isn't to much extra work.

   Thanks for the help

1. 
   Huck | Dec 05, 2006 06:40pm | #6

   I would sand to remove the high spots in the texture with a coarse grit, wipe it clean, and then apply a coat of joint compound, sand that lightly with a finer grit, followed by a coat of topping compound."...never charged nothing for his preaching, and it was worth it, too" - Mark Twain

1. 
   rick12 | Dec 06, 2006 07:12am | #7

   Please explain to me what is topping compound. Is it primer paint? Also, when you are skim coating  ceilings and walls in kitchens and baths in order to smooth out an ugly texture, is one type of drywall compound better to use than another. You can purchase ready mix drywall compound in buckets or you can buy setting type in bags that you mix yourself. Is the setting type more water resistant like plaster and hence, better to use in bathrooms? Thanks for any comments.

1. 
   Huck | Dec 06, 2006 07:26am | #8

   Setting type is more water resistant, but once its painted it shouldn't matter much.  Its generally a little harder to sand than regular all-pupose, but quicker-drying.  Topping is a compound for drywall finishing similar to all-pupose joint compound, but with less glue.  Hence, it applies a little easier, and sands easier.  But its recommended for final coat, not the initial coat, where the better bonding properties of all-pupose make it more suitable."...never charged nothing for his preaching, and it was worth it, too" - Mark Twain

2. 
   jimblodgett | Dec 06, 2006 07:30am | #9

   I don't know what kind of texture you guys are skimming over with any success, but I'd advise scraping off existing texture, or boarding over with new board, depending on how smooth a finish you're after.

   Skimming over texture to get a decent smoothwall?  Difficult.  And that's putting it gently.Romania wasn't built in a day.

3. 
   Heck | Dec 06, 2006 07:41am | #10

   I agree with you to a point. A pro would make short work of this, but a beginner could become very frustrated.

   Respectfully submitted however:

   Scraping a panted textured wall is no fun for anyone.

   And boarding over, and then taping, floating, and skimming , seems to me like using a sledgehammer to swat a mosquito.

   Anyone with the skill to successfully finish newly hung drywall to a satisfactory state would have no trouble skimming over old texture._______________________________________________________________

   What would Scooby do?

4. 
   xxPaulCPxx | Dec 06, 2006 07:49am | #11

   I would respectfully disagree.  After receiving some advice here, I used a setting compound with admix to go over a poorly done orange peel textured hallway.  After about four passes of the latex enhanced mud (each coat 90 degrees to the previous) there was no more texture.  Painted with eggshell antique white and it looks great.Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA

   Also a CRX fanatic!

5. 
   rick12 | Dec 06, 2006 07:30pm | #12

   I have a small bath where a prior owner textured all the walls and ceiling. I hate it! I have just removed the failing tile over greenboard tub surround and I'm preparing to put up cement board. But what should I do with the rest of the walls and ceiling? I'm anguishing over removing all walls and ceiling(1950's plaster over sheetrock) and replacing with 1/2" or 5/8" sheetrock.  Skim coating seems appealing. What product should I use for skim coat. What is "admix"? Is it some type of latex liquid you added to setting type joint compound? Thanks for any advice.

6. 
   xxPaulCPxx | Dec 06, 2006 10:04pm | #14

   Yep, you are on the right track.  I used a setting compound (only use the 90 minute kind - all the others set too fast fer us beginerz).  The admix ia a liquid acrylic latex, looks like thinned milk.  You find it next to the bags of setting joint compound.  I used half water / half admix to wet the powered compound. 

   Apply it with a 12" knife, go ONLY horizontally the first coat.  Next coat go ONLY vertically.  Next ONLY horizontal again, next vertical again.  You are creating berms surrounding the bumps on each pass, and each pass helps fill over the berms you created the previous pass.

   Side benifit - your bath walls will be pretty water resistant now.Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA

   Also a CRX fanatic!

7. 
   Huck | Dec 06, 2006 09:40pm | #13

   Skimming over old texture can be a lot of work, but generally not too difficult for a dedicated diy'er.  Just a lot more sanding and re-coating than a pro would require.  (Definitely get a pole-sander - and get ready for a lot of fine white dust!)  The main thing is sand the high spots of the texture first, you'll use a lot less mud if you do.

   When I was first learning to do drywall, and worrying about getting the technique down, and old-timer told me Don't worry about it, worst case scenario drywall joint compound can always be sanded and re-coated.  Generally a pro will use less mud, and require less sanding, because he just puts the mud where he needs it.  And the pro knows a low spot is soooo much easier to fill later than a high spot is to sand down later."...never charged nothing for his preaching, and it was worth it, too" - Mark Twain

8. 
   xxPaulCPxx | Dec 06, 2006 10:13pm | #15

   Yep, good tip:  Don't sand between coats.  If you've got a super obvious ridge, use the edge of the knife to knock it off.Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA

   Also a CRX fanatic!

9. 
   txlandlord | Dec 06, 2006 11:20pm | #16

   Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA

   So, when does this change to "Enjoying my rebuilt home in Cypress, CA"?

10. 
    xxPaulCPxx | Dec 07, 2006 12:00am | #17

    Wow, I didn't know my wife posted here under the name "txlandlord"!Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA

    Also a CRX fanatic!

11. 
    txlandlord | Dec 07, 2006 01:44am | #18

    If you woud stop spending so much time on BT maybe you could finish. Of course you may be addicted like me.

12. 
    woodguy99 | Dec 07, 2006 02:28am | #19

    I'm with you, Jim.  This weekend's project is to board over the textured ceiling in my bathroom.  No way I want to try to float out the whole room and have it look right.  Board is cheap and easy.  No brainer, at least for a small space like a bathroom.

     

    Mike Maines

13. 
    EricPaulson | Dec 07, 2006 02:34am | #20

    I may tend to agree with Jim as well.

    3/8" or even 1/4" glued and screwed.................save a whole lot of messin around.[email protected]

     

     

    It's Never Too Late To Become What You Might Have Been

     

     

     

14. 
    EricPaulson | Dec 07, 2006 04:59am | #21

    ??[email protected]

     

     

    It's Never Too Late To Become What You Might Have Been

     

     

     

15. 
    rez | Dec 07, 2006 05:04am | #22

    my little attempt at humor was too little

     

     damn, am I fat!

16. 
    jimblodgett | Dec 07, 2006 06:33am | #23

    Well I'm going to look into this admix.  Is there a brand name?  Are you guys saying you apply 4 coats of 90 minute mud to the surface, like a skim coat?  That sounds like a disaster to me!  I only use that stuff for the first coat of mud and to fill uglies.

    But I'm definately willing to give it a try.  Just never know what I'll learn reading here. Thanks. Romania wasn't built in a day.

17. 
    rick12 | Dec 07, 2006 06:59am | #24

    Thanks to all for your comments. Today I used a sharp stiff 3" knife to remove alot of the texture(joint compound?) from the plaster walls. It seems to come off just above what might be an oil / gloss paint. I started out thinking that I would plane down the high points but was surprised to find that, in some areas, it all came off. Beautiful smooth plaster walls beneath. It is very slow going however. Covering the ceiling with rock is a possibility. If you were to use screws and glue, what glue would you use? The setting type joint compound bag says its' uses include laminating rock. Would you consider using the joint compound as the glue? I wouldn't want 3/8" or 1/4" rock to sag over time in the high humidity bathroom.

18. 
    EricPaulson | Dec 07, 2006 09:05am | #25

    what glue would you use?

    pl400[email protected]

     

     

    It's Never Too Late To Become What You Might Have Been

     

     

     

19. 
    Northboundtrain | Dec 08, 2006 12:40am | #26

    Well, thanks for the abundant advice.  Clearly no consensus.  As long as no one here raises any serious objections to just using the all purpose mud over the semi-gloss paint, then that is what I'm going to do.  I'm not worried about my ability to create a smooth surface, just the adhesion of the mud to the paint.

    Thanks

20. 
    xxPaulCPxx | Dec 08, 2006 02:14am | #27

    Use a setting compound initially!  Regular drying compound takes forever to dry and will crack when you lay it on thick.Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA

    Also a CRX fanatic!

21. 
    Huck | Dec 08, 2006 04:45am | #28

    Wow, you guys must have a way of making a skim coat into a big project, if you can make it harder than hanging and finishing new rock! "...never charged nothing for his preaching, and it was worth it, too" - Mark Twain

22. 
    Heck | Dec 08, 2006 06:47am | #29

    That's what I thought._______________________________________________________________

    What would Scooby do?