Replies

1. 
   The_Homewright | Feb 13, 2002 11:00pm | #1

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   bake- I ran into a comparable situation in a basement remodel I did two years ago. We had salvaged some old beadboard t&g which had originally been the furring strips to staple acoustic tile to the ceiling. I had a spot in the hallway where sheetrock went on a wall but the transition from sheetrock to beam (without having to sheetrock the whole beam) was the awkward point. I ripped a 1/4" transition strip which butted to the edge of the sheetrock then used the beadboard to overlay the beam face on that side. Another 1/4" strip went onto the bottom of the beadboard to give it the finish detail. I'd suggest looking into options with trim at the point between beam and sheetrock. Even if you have to mill a rabbet on the backside to overlap the sheetrock a bit, it would give you an interesting detail while solving an awkward problem. Keep in mind whatever detail you use may have to extend further throughout the space to maintain continuity. Let your eye be the judge. Good luck.

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   bake_ | Feb 14, 2002 05:27am | #2

   *Thanks for the suggestion...... but it sounds like you are proposing trim and I want the drywall to stop nice and clean at the beam.

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   Ralph_Wicklund | Feb 14, 2002 06:04am | #3

   *I guess it's too late to rabbet the upper portion of the beams to bury the drywall?Maybe later, when the beams have shrunk and are checked and split you could wrap them? Mitering the edges so it still looks like a solid beam. That would then hide the drywall edge.

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   David_Doud | Feb 14, 2002 08:35am | #4

   *I have done the caulking trip, the claimed 'higher quality' 'siliconized acrylic' material - - and it has worked reasonably well - sometimes there is just too much movement and the caulk will crack and you do it again - hopefully the situation is such that a near equalibrium is reached so the beam doesn't move more than the caulk can handle - in a conditioned space, a year or so and the wood should be finished with the majority of the initial movement - I think chasing the edge of the drywall with a knife so the space to fill with caulk was on the order of an eight of an inch or a little more would be a good idea - make sure you don't separate the paper from the plaster along the edge and leave it flapping in the breeze -

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   bake_ | Feb 14, 2002 08:58am | #5

   *I had the beams kiln dried and they have been installed in the house for over 2 years now so most major movment should be done. It's definatelt to late to rabbit the beams! Remember I have L edge on the drywall where it butts to the beam.

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   James_DuHamel | Feb 14, 2002 05:53pm | #6

   *Caulk it with Lexell Super Clear sealant. This stuff is permanent, VERY flexible with movement, and is paintable. It will make for a very nice, clean edge at the beam. The little bit that actually touches the beam is so clear that you can only see it if your face is right in front of it. It is not water cleanup, so ya gotta be careful when using it.James DuHamel

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   The_Homewright | Mar 01, 2002 05:37pm | #7

   *Though it might defeat the original 'look' of the beam, you could wrap the beam with 1"x material to create the look...