Is there a way to extend drywall to the edge of door frames. I have a client who wants to remove the molding around the doors and patch the drywall so it lays flush with the door frames. I can put mud right up to the door frame but it will crack as soon as the door is used. Is there a product on the market that can do this or a technique?
thanks
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Replies
Not normally easy in a retrofit situation. The edge is done with a metal "J" mold that is put on the SR which is cut to the right size upon ionstallation, But the caveat is that this would normally lay over the edge of the jamb in the same manner that the casing does now. Since you have jambs already at teh thicker typical sizing, the SR is on a plane that finishes out at the same surface as teh edge of the jambThat joint would always craack and open even if you could add the 'J' mold and feather the pathch in smooth.
In my opinion, your clients request would involve considerable cost to create an effet that is usualy done for an economy ( read " cheaper" ) situation. it is something not hard to do when planned from beginning ina anew house, but is going to be a headache for an existing.
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Jeff
Dont know if this will help but, here is a picture of a place that didn't have any casing.
Your doing a retro so you would have to fir out all the jambs.
Doug
Thanks for the picture. How would you join the drywall to the wood?
thanks
Jeff
I'm not sure how this was done. We built cabinets for the place so I had nothing to do with the sheetrock.
I imagine that they used some edge piece, I think Piffin referred to a j-channel piece, seems like something like that was used. don't know how you'd deal with that with the rock already up.
The post after yours to me(I think it'd be no. 5) mentioned the jamb not having to be extended, that'd be right, my mistake. Don't know why I wouldn't realized that after having trimmed out 1000's of doors!
He also mentioned the base that you'd have to deal with. That's certainly something to consider.
Sorry, not a lot of help.
Doug
Thanks for your answers.
Everybody keeps showing this done with a J moulding...we did it with a reveal bead, looks sort of like the z-channel used with T-111 but one leg is perforated like normal corner bead....the other leg covers the rough framing....
Thanks for the idea of a z channel. Do you know where on the web I could look at the product you are talking about or a brand name and manufacture?
thanks
The way I've always seen it done used a smaller jamb and the SR lapped onto it like a casing normally does like here
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And I though I'd just about seen it all....hadn't thought of doing it that way & don't see any reason it wouldn't work on a new build....
still think, given baseboard, etc., that it's a bad idea, but the customer is always right...
jeff, not sure why everyone keeps saying fur out the jambs..they are flush to the rock under the existing trim...
did a trim (or should I say no trim...LOL) job many moons back...used what's called a shadow bead...end result pretty much like the picture on the last post....
don't forget that the casing adds to the structural integrity of the jamb....if your client really wants the look, it's do-able, but baseboard also becomes an issue...
The only time that I have seen something close to what you described was done as in the attachment.
The jamb used actually becomes the jamb and the casing. Usually done in a light color wood like ash. Very clean and modern looking.
didnt fhb recently do an article on this? i read an article on this where the jams were dadoed (is that spelled right?) to slip over the drywall by about 1/4 inch. no j mould needed and the house can flex.
Tmaxxx
Urban Workshop Ltd
Vancouver B.C.
cheers. Ill buy.
1/4" straight bit in a router and kerf the jambs. You can make a simple jig to keep the router parallel with the jamb. At the the floor either handsaw or roto-zip. Drywall corner bead will sit right in the kerf. This is done allot in the SouthWest for no trim and all drywall returns.
Mark
How do you prevent cracks from appearing.? Do you mud the wood?
thanks
Good question. I did the door/window installation along with the kerfing. [Much easier to run that kerf before installation]. Someone else did the drywall. If I had to the drywall as well, I would run mud [Durabond] pretty close to the jamb and than a thin bead 1/8-3/16" of caulk to allow flexibiity. I'll email some friends in the SW and see if they have other ideas for the mud to wood joint.
Mark
Trim-Tex makes a tearaway reveal bead that might work for you. Check out the options at their website.
View Image
Shown here is the "reveal" bead, and the "B" leg is the reveal. The smallest you can get is 1/4".
Another bead is available without the reveal leg, but using that would result in a small crack between bead face and door frame. You can always caulk the crack, but the caulk will shrink and crack away from one surface or another.
Edited 4/25/2005 11:59 am ET by Gene Davis
I agree with Gene Davis...I've seen the tear-away J Bead in action and it's pretty incredible stuff. I definitly suggest taking a closer look at that product.Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
you go Gene....back when I did it we didn't have it as a tear-away bead....hope all these other posters with routers, caulk, yadda yadda are paying attention here....
Before you get too far along on this, make sure the door frames are actually secured in the rough openings. It's not at all unusual to find a frame that is secured ONLY by the trim, or where the trim is a major part of the "security".
Also remember that the outer edges of the existing jambs are generally not nicely finished, and next to the jamb is either rough framing or an air space with occasional wedges in it, making any "reveal" problematic.
that the outer edges of the existing jambs are generally not nicely finished, and next to the jamb is either rough framing or an air space with occasional wedges in it, making any "reveal" problematic
Yeah, That wsa something I was jsut thinking about--what most jamb/trim looks like with the previous casing pulled off. (Busted off, rather than cut wedges, etc., just complicating matters . . . )
What occurs to me is that maybe what is needed (by OP) is to rout the casing down the thickness of the s/r and near-flush a bead (closing, J, Z, whatever) the "wrong" way to the door. This would allow a slightly better width of replacement s/r to be used. It also moves the "problem" reveal to a less visible area.
Hmm, I'm going to second-guess my own answer to ponder if maybe a bit of aluminium angle (like 1/2 x 1/2 ) might be even better than a stock s/r bead where it was exposed.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
Yeah, something like aluminum angle, 1/2"x1/2" inner dimension, fastened to the outside of the frame would do the trick. Fastening would be a little tricky (drill & CS holes in the angle, the apply with short screws) but it would allow a clean edge and some reveal if you wished.A problem with this (and with the approach in general) is that usually the side pieces continue upward beyond the top. Some router work along the top of the frame is probably required to make it square up there. Another problem you have is that the thickness of the frames may vary from door to door.I'd also thought of routing a notch along the outside corner, but that doesn't leave much meat on the typical interior frame. It does address some of the above problems, though.I kind of wonder, though, if the best approach wouldn't be to simply remove the existing frames and install some new custom ones. The time/money spent trying to work around the exiting frames isn't worth it.
fastened to the outside of the frame would do the trick
Actually, I was still thinking ripping the door frame down the width of the angle, which would then expose the framing, into which the angle would then attach.
That would present the edge of the angle perpendicular to the wall, and the flat inside the door frame.
Which is all a bit of WAG surmising, I still want to put some anodized up against some peices parts in my garage to make sure I'm not a complete lunatic here (partial is a given <g>).Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)