Basically what kind of big box glue will stick to concrete? I am building a ‘guest quarters’ in a basement in the mountains. We poured a stepped stemwall (2′ to about 6′) on three sides and then ran 2 x 4’s to the ceiling. Using greenboard can we glue the greenboard directly to the stemwall and finish off nailing to the 2/4’s?
On a separate problem I laid a small redwood walkway directly over concrete and glued it down with silicon a few years ago. Some boards are starting to detach. Can I reglue them using a different adhesive (wood to concrete)? Thanks ahead.
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"Liquid Nails" used to be the
"Liquid Nails" used to be the go-to adhesive, if only because of the scantily-dressed gal on the label. Haven't seen it around as much lately. (Darn political correctness!)
Basically, you want a "construction adhesive". Something that comes in a caulk tube but isn't caulk.
Dan,
The crew always called Liquid Nails "cowgirl". Even got the old guys at the yard calling it cowgirl. I miss the lady.
KK
K
My "go to" adhesive is PL Premium for most situations. A quality urethane adhesive.
Silicone has its purpose but I use it rarely as most everything else will have a problem sticking once it fails.
For the drywall to concrete to just hold it firm, blobs of joint compound between dw and the concrete will work.
Yeah, Calvin makes a good point that silicone leaves a residue which makes it hard for other adhesives (or new silicone) to stick. You must rough up the areas where the stuff was pretty well (simply scraping it off won't work), or apply the new glue to a different area.
DW compound?
Calvin, I would have thought that drywall compund would be at risk should there ever be a moisture problem on/thru the concrete.
Oops
Moisture that comes in from outside will most surely [JOBSITE WORD] up that drywall no matter the adhesive. Even what used to be called MR or moisture resistant.
as a remodeler I've had lasting luck with thick bag compound sticking for a long time on sound block or concrete. I have seen squiggles of most any tube adhesive give up after a while on even dry interior masonry.
funny, they don't mention proper adhesive applying on the tube. If a person goes to the manufacturer site and digs, we find a whole lot more info.
Still, an onsite look-see would be my first step for specific advice. I gotta remember that........
Hi there,
I agree with the other guys. Construction adhesive for the board inside. Although I would recommend strapping those concrete walls first, then attaching the board to the strapping. It is easier and leaves a little room for insulation and a wire chase. Even better is a whole 2"x4" wall in front of the foundation wall. If you must glue directly to the masonry, then PL is the way to go. For outside 3M 5200 is unbelievable - totally permanent and waterproof. Good luck.
PL Premium
Is this a brand name thats available at big boxes?
K
Yes, PL Premium urethane adhesiveis available at the boxes as well as many quality building supply stores.
often in both large and small tubes.
being urethane, not always easy to work with. If on your hands you can count on a dark residue that may last for a couple washings. Don't plan to go out to eat at a place with some ambiance that evening.
also, often the tube will keep spewing after the trigger is released. A spike stuffed into the end with a knob of paper towel on the head and propped against something will limit the loss and mess. When the spike drys in the tube, you usually can pull it out with the claw of a hammer, but try to use soon after opening.
Remove from caulk gun so any oozing out the back doesn't permanently glue the tube to the gun.