Replies

1. 
   unclemike42 | May 08, 2021 02:44pm | #1

   I don't think you need such a precise joint. No angle cut. just make the back flush against your surface and plan to fill the gap.

   measure in three places, score and snap

   https://www.amazon.com/STRAIT-SO-100-100-Feet-Original-Composite/dp/B000LNKNY4/ref=asc_df_B000LNKNY4/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167138874211&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5879921285673831599&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9008183&hvtargid=pla-307068312223&psc=1

   they have some good products to make the joint look better.

   the boxes cut with a rotary zip saw pretty slick. takes a bit of practice, but you hang the drywall with a couple screws and cut the box with the sheet hanging on the wall

2. 
   mistered1957 | May 08, 2021 05:06pm | #2

   Excellent recommendation on the Strait-Flex composite corner tape from UncleMike42 for your knee wall to sloped ceiling joint! After you hang the knee wall drywall, fill the larger gaps with "hot mud" (20 minute or 45 minute drywall setting compound), then use the Strait-Flex. It works especially well on inside corners as you have in this situation with the knee walls...

   I use Strait-Flex for all my inside corners, and outside corners where there is a non-90 degree angle...

3. 
   calvin | May 08, 2021 08:03pm | #3

   Try a pc. of straightflex and see how it’ll work for you. Too abrupt of a wave in your ceiling could pose a problem. If your good with a trowel or blade it might help to pre-even out the waves so the straightflex lies in a fairly flat plane.

   Since it’s your place that you’ve been trying hard to make it right.....

   Perfect is close enough.

   As usual, best of luck!

4. 
   nomorecoffee | May 10, 2021 09:51am | #4

   Thanks for the tips. I usually use 90 minute hot mud because I don't go very fast. Is the faster setting stuff stronger or better in some other way?

   I had actually sprung for the no-coat 450. Straight-flex instructions say not to use where you expect some movement and I do. Plus I can beat the corners with a baseball bat, apparently, which is nice. The ceiling isn't perfectly flat and level but the strapping has it smoothed out so there shouldn't be any abrupt jogs.

   The electrical boxes in the knee walls are actually really easy in my setup because they're all the adjustable ones that ride on a screw. I retract them behind the strapping, put on the drywall, go behind the knee wall, drill holes at the corners, cut out the opening from the front and adjust the box out flush with the drywall face.

1. 
   mistered1957 | May 10, 2021 01:06pm | #5

   I haven't used the No-Coat 450, but it looks like a great product, and 90 minute hot mod should be fine. For electrical box openings, I use a Roto-Zip (be sure to go counter clockwise around the outside of the box), or, more recently, I've used an oscillating tool as the drywall dust is reduced somewhat when working in largely completed living space...

2. 
   calvin | May 10, 2021 01:12pm | #6

   Durabond dries harder, is bagged and has setting times 20, 45, 90.
   Easysand is bagged, easier to sand (softer) and has the same times.

   These are USG products.

   I bed tape and 1st fill corners, holes, patches with Durabond. Usually finish out with Easysand where I had previously used bucket All Purpose or Topping.

   I gave up giving buckets away when I slowed down and now retired I’m down to about 50.........15 pristine and the rest in some state of .......not so nice. Kindling for the heater, ashes form the heater (for ice in the drive), sand, stone, some misc tools, etc fill the rest. Never had to buy a bucket! How embarrassing for a tradesman .......

5. 
   nomorecoffee | May 10, 2021 02:59pm | #7

   I'm a sucker so I've been paying for buckets.

   If I'm floating the edge of a drywall sheet on a ceiling or just trying to make a tight joint, I'll try to butt up the wall sheet below tight against the ceiling sheet. Same deal in vertical corners between walls. But with the knee walls I leave a gap and fill with durabond. Is it actually better to leave the gap and fill it with compound? Seems more solid and tighter than just butting two sheets of drywall together.

1. 
   calvin | May 10, 2021 07:08pm | #8

   The attic remodels I’ve done usually had no Sheetrock at all. New walls whether full or knee, I’d keep plumb, square, straight and true. Since most remodels in attic spaces were never intended to be finished, most anything else was what it was......old or real old.

   So the new framing was right and wherever it met the old? Maybe right maybe not. If humanely possible, I’d true up what was old. Shims, tapered strips and maybe new “lath catchers” on old rafters to make out of plumb or waves disappear.

   After all that (a lot or maybe not) I’d hang the board. In most cases all the joints could be tight. If not I’d get it close and fill the rest.

   Some might question the work done getting to the drywall stage as being too much and not worth the effort. Well, tell that to the trim guy which was always me. I hate trimming out botched up framing. Farting around with cabinets and counters to make stuff disappear. While the floors were not always, level at least tile or wood floors were easy and not a pain.

   Way more than you asked for but being almost totally retired I don’t now have to worry about jobs. Way easier to spew out advice and as usual, it’s worth whatever you paid for.

   Please remember to post some pictures of all your work. Cant see it from my house.
   Thanks

1. 
   nomorecoffee | May 14, 2021 08:44am | #9

   Here you go, Calvin. It all looks about the same.

   
1. 
   calvin | May 14, 2021 09:09am | #10

   SWEET!