I just got up this morn and flipped through the tv only to stop on an infomercial for the Dual Saw counter-rotating saw which, as I recalled was not too long ago introduced as a Craftsman Twin Cutter. Now, I’m not usually into as seen on TV type prodcts (especially tools) but I was slightly convinced that a counter rotating saw would be the optimal tool for cutting corrugated metal.
I say this because I have a pole barn project I began recently and have been worried about cutting the metal. Not only do I have to cut a bunch of metal to fit the walls and roof, this job is an addition so I have to cut into the roof of an existing (insulated and drywalled) barn to run the valley. I am extremely concerned about keeping sparks down there and that’s the biggest reason the twin cutter/dual saw seemed to impress me.
Where it didn’t impress me was in the fact that it didn’t have a foot which means I’d have to freehand the cuts. The motor also seemed to bog on the infomercial, I can only imagine what it would do in “real life”.
So, has anyone tried these? What’s your impression? Would it work well for corrugated steel? Are there any better options for cutting corrugated?
Thanks all
DC
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Use snips. No fire, no problem.
" Use snips."When you say snips...do you mean hand powered snips?!?!I guess I should have mentioned, I am talking about 4 valleys at 24' each. Even if it were physically possible, I wouldn't have the time.But, thanks.DC
They have drill powered snips and electric also. If it was just my house I would snip it by hand, with the set-up time for a strait edge, I doubt it would take much longer.
It has been a long time since I cut it but I remember using electric nibblers.
"........I remember using electric nibblers."Got a link (make/model) that is worthy?How did they do on the ribs?I should've been more clear in my initial post; the metal style (called "Classic Rib") is more like 5v than plain 'ol wavy style corrugated. It's the type that has a trapezoidal rib then a little trapezoidal rib on that, if ya know what I mean.thanks
DC
I know what you are talking about yes. It has been over 20 years so I don't have a clue to the brand. I do remember cutting width and length though.
I should have one this week and let ya know, its a used one from a guy here.
Anyway, two other good options are either a Ferrous metal blade for your circsaw ( ala Harbor Frieght) Or the Malco Turbo Shears that fit on any drill motor. I've used both with excellent results. The ferrous blade makes minimal sparks, totally diff. than an abrasive blade.
The Dewalt and Kett shears are not as adept at climbing the peaks and valleys of corrugated and worse on 5V.
You should still beable to rig a staright edge guide for a twin cutter some how, I think it may have a rip fence attachment capabilty, lay a 1x on the roof and use the fence?
If you are diagonal across the corrugated for a valley, I'm think the circ saw is the best way to go.
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Sphere,
Tell me more about the Malco Turbo shears. Did they work pretty good on metal roofing. I bought some milwaukee power shears for a 5v roof I was doing. Didnt work to well.
I suggest the metal cutting blade for the circular saw. I bought a cheapo one from Tractor Supply. Worked great until the teeth started falling off ( so dont get a Tractor Supply metal cutting blade).
Live by the sword, die by the sword....choose your sword wisely.
Well to be honest, 99% of what I cut with them is either copper or terne when doing tear off. I have used them on galv coil stock and rip cuts on 5V. I really use snips more than anything else.
If I'm crosscutting corr. or V, its the saw I go for, and I just use whatever carbide that happens to be on it.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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Thanks Sphere,Like I said to Doodabug, this is actually like 5v panel (painted).I've used the circ. saw option several times before, but I clearly remember hating it each and every time. Then there was the ironic time we were building a firehouse and we caught the metal pile on fire.I thought about shears and nibblers as well. I stopped into a garage sale a few weeks ago and the guy was selling an old Milwaukee nibbler. I didn't have this job then and was trying to be budget conscience; I'm kicking myself now. I'll have to go see if it sold (most likely).By Malco Turbo Shears, are you meaning the cheap TS1 version? Be worth a try for under $50.Be sure to let me know about that dual saw. Thanks.DC
You had a chance to use that Dual Saw yet?DC
Hasn't arrived yet.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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I have it in my trailer and your address on my visor and I even went by the post office a 1/2 hr to early but those new boxes that 90% of packages are suppose to fit for one rate were not big enough.
So I should have a gap tomorrow and will try to get by a UPS store tomorrow.
Sorry for delay
ANDYSZ2WHY DO I HAVE TO EXPLAIN TO FRIENDS AND FAMILY THAT BEING A SOLE PROPRIETOR IS A REAL JOB?
REMODELER/PUNCHOUT SPECIALIST
Hurry up, dude!We're all anxiously awaiting Sphere's thorough evaluation report!Maybe I can justify a new tool.
Don't apologize, I know ya had yer self a time of it.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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It's on the way. Should arrive via UPS on Monday.
I never checked to see if the manual was in the box or if the blades were hung up so good luck.
ANDYSZ2WHY DO I HAVE TO EXPLAIN TO FRIENDS AND FAMILY THAT BEING A SOLE PROPRIETOR IS A REAL JOB?
REMODELER/PUNCHOUT SPECIALIST
Thanks man, lemme cover the shipping at least. I'm sure I won't need a manual, I can figure out most potential problems.
I'll watch for big brown, and let ya know how many fingers I have left after playing with it (G).Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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well, I got a check here for you but all I have is the UPS store addy. Wanna email ( I lost that too, damm pooter dumped a load) your addy so I can pay ya?
Look. Still have all my fingers and eyes!
It is a funky kinda thing to get used to. Took me awhile to figure out what the heck that wax feeder doohizzy was all about...loud Mofo too.
Thanks.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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How's it do on Hardie panel?
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Eh...I'm not gonna try it. It ain't diamond, and I imagine it would cut real well, for a real short time. There is no clearance between the blades, the teeth are not ATB, more like the flat one side outside blades of a stack dado.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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So, post a pic of this miracle tool, eh?http://www.tvwsolar.com
We'll have a kid
Or maybe we'll rent one
He's got to be straight
We don't want a bent one
He'll drink his baby brew
From a big brass cup
Someday he may be president
If things loosen up
I'm stringing up beans for leather britches, this'll have to do ya for now.
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You can google it too.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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I didn't need to hear about your britches! I'm thick, I know,... but I can't figure that saw out... except that I really need to have one<G>http://www.tvwsolar.com
We'll have a kid
Or maybe we'll rent one
He's got to be straight
We don't want a bent one
He'll drink his baby brew
From a big brass cup
Someday he may be president
If things loosen up
Same here, just had to have one. LOL
Awe man, Leather Britches is how we put up the bushels of beans, string em up and hang em to dry. Come winter, shell em out and cook em up with smoked pig parts.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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"If Brains was lard, you couldn't grease much of a pan"Jed Clampitt
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Sooooo, got a follow-up?http://www.tvwsolar.com
We'll have a kid
Or maybe we'll rent one
He's got to be straight
We don't want a bent one
He'll drink his baby brew
From a big brass cup
Someday he may be president
If things loosen up
Haven't even touched it since then, been kinda hectic around here. I will eventually.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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I'm anxious to read a review on that saw by a real life t4radsman too. Looks like an interesting concept, but when they use such deceptive marketing, my suspicions get raised.I watched a whole half hour show and nowhere did they say what the price is - only try it for a certain amt of time for $9.95. How much to keep it for the rest of the time?So I googled it up and found out on my own
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Just so everyone knows, the price of the Dual Saw (as seen on TV) is $180 + $40 s/hThe Craftsman version is $150and apparently there was a Harbor Freight version that doesn't seem to be available anymore.I already posted the links for everyone.DC
I was given a Craftsman one for x-mas years ago. I didn't use it too much, but here is what i cut with it.
Wood= no problem
Plastic headboard from old bed= The plastic melted and froze in between the blades and jammed them up.
1/4 steel plate= no problem.
You are right about the no base problem. You have to clamp everything. You need two hands to hold on and move the gaurd when starting.It was impressive on the steel plate.
I have some Pole barn siding to cut for a friend, maybe i'll try it.Unless you want to make me an offer on mine.
You think the blade wax might have helped with the plastic issue? I intend to cut a bit of Lexan Greenhouse panels and it is nasty to cut other ways.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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Sphere,possibly. This headboard was a brittle thermoformed(i'm guessing) pos.
When i worked for the glass company we always cut Lexan with a plexiglass cutter, or if it was over a 1/4" we used a circular saw. The plexi cutter was nothing more than a sharpened pointy piece of thin steel that you scratched the sheet with against a straightedge and then snapped it off. Sorry for the bad description on the cutter but i just got back from the new house i am remodeling and was playing with the sewer line in the mud. Its Transite(asb_ _ _os) Fun, Fun fun and i need to post athread enquiring about a combo wye and if they can be used horizontally.
One q for you, where in PA did you live or work?
The polycarb greenhouse stuff is hollow sq. tubes and film, 3/4" thick and circ saw tears it up, score cutter won't do it.I was born in Montgomery Co. Lived in Bucks and Lehigh as well. Moved out around '93 or '94. Went south.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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"If Brains was lard, you couldn't grease much of a pan"Jed Clampitt
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Score was the word i was looking for, darn plumbing on a Sunday. Did you try a chopsaw? I think the dual cutter would work for that type of tubing may be the wax or some kind of lube.
I am a little north of your old stomping ground. I am from Pottsville,Schuylkill county that is.
Nope, not tubing, it's in 4'x 8' sheets. or 4' x12'. Neat stuff.I used to hunt out in that area, frackville and pottsville...all around centre and schuykill(sp) county and surrounds. Ringerstown ring a bell? Neat old quarry and strip mine slag areas for 4wd ing too.It just got wayyyyyy to crowded for me over in the tri counties, and the poconos just exploded. Hence my vacating the area.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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Ahhh Glorious Ringtown, Men are men and well you know the rest. My Mother is from Frackville. Spent alot of time 4 wheeling in stripping pits.
Hunting has gone way down hill. The past few years they have put Doe season in with the two week Buck season, bad bad bad.
The Poconos are still exploding, lots of People from Jersey moving in.
Probably 25 years since I been out and about there, it was semi good hunting then, nuthin like Potter and Tioga. They made us non-rifle in Bucks so we all went elsewhere to hunt.
Carbon and Monroe went crazy with outta staters shooting at anything that breathed, I quit going there right quick. My Gdad had 1,000 acres or so outside of Tannersville, so I was mostly running off tresspassers instead of getting deer.
Urban sprawl is a bummer. It's happening here in Ky on large scale too.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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"If Brains was lard, you couldn't grease much of a pan"Jed Clampitt
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Kettle Creek ? ? ?Greg
Do you have a metal cutting saw blade? It should work on lexan OK. You need a negative hook blade.
Yeah, somewhere in my blade stash. I found a HSS Plywood blade about the best, or a carbide framer in backwards. I make doo by hook or crook.
Andysz2(?) is sending me his for freebie! and I'll play around with it on copper and stuff I have laying around looking to be experimented on.Hey whats that filter for Ffox here? ffff? I am on nuther pooter till I get my lt screen fixed.
Man, this old thing is a POS like you'd not believe.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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"If Brains was lard, you couldn't grease much of a pan"Jed Clampitt
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You need a super sharp blade, or you will get melting. I doubt that a framer blade backwards would work at all, but who knows unless you try it.My filters are here:My element hiding rules
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Cool, lessee if I can crash it again (G)This stuff is hollow with partitions and a thin film, it don't melt, it just chips kinda raggedy.Filters on, but I have like no memory, the mem is just stuffed in ( wrong size) and not working. And a bootleg XP sys. can't verify to upgrade, I'm on SP zero..LOLSpheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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"If Brains was lard, you couldn't grease much of a pan"Jed Clampitt
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Yee ha, it worked. Thanx.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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"If Brains was lard, you couldn't grease much of a pan"Jed Clampitt
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Sphere, I have the corrugated polycarb on my greenhouse and used a jigsaw with a fine tooth blade to cut it. No chips.Any birdseye peppers yet?KK
This ain't that either. I'll get a pic when I fix t'other pooter.They didn't germinate. Bummer. But I DO HAVE FATALIS!!!! and Jamaican Hot chocolate!! And jalaps, and habs, yellow banana and some serrano like red chiles.
Plenty to pickle, dry, freeze and sauce up. Yee haw!Groundhogs wiping out my corn has me PO'ed. Traps are next.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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"If Brains was lard, you couldn't grease much of a pan"Jed Clampitt
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I think yours is called twinwall. Should work with a jig.I will send more seeds. Fresh.KK
Cool beans!! Er..I mean Hot Peppers!! LOL
I ate the others, and just deseeded that one to grow. I had skunky grow mix AGAIN and had horrid gemination results, then if they did sprout they stayed stunted.
Found out the wife mixed in grass starter mix , that had weed blocker in it...Grrrrrr.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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"If Brains was lard, you couldn't grease much of a pan"Jed Clampitt
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New electric nibblers run $300 plus. I tried a pnuematic from CVFSupply.com. $50, a little slower but much better than hand snips.
I think a plasma cutter could work. Seems overkill, but it's quiet.
and clean...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints"
I have a modified 6" grinder for cutting steel and well. any siding. Thin metal cutting wheels cut through anything fast.
wear safety glasses,
Woods favorite carpenter
i'm afraid at 200 i'd take a trip to harbor frieght and buy one of there metal cutting carbide blades for 14.00.they work really well.
i cut metal with a plain old non carbide blade. put it in the saw backwards.
to say "wear saftey galsses "is a understatement. if you have a face sheild, not a bad idea.
the older i get ,
the more people tick me off
Edited 8/11/2009 9:00 am by alwaysoverbudget
AOB, Are you saying you've tried the DualSaw/TwinCutter and didn't like the results or are you just saying you wouldn't want to try it for the price?Believe me, I have cut metal with a circ. saw many times and I would like to avoid it if possible..... hopefully with better results (no burnt, toothy edge) but also easily set up for straight line and few as possible sparks.I did buy the Malco Turbo Shears and will be testing them today. DC
I had one of the first Craftsman versions. Used it once to cut back some end nailed joists to add in another layer of header. Gave up adn went back to recip. It smelled like the motor was cooking. The lube they give you is for aluminum by the way.
I did the recall, got my money back. Lowes had a version as Tradesman for a while. Supposedly the Craftsman re-release is supposedly better.
Any links to that recall, I didn't know about it. I have one of the earlier one and would rather have some cash.Thanks
No, it was a couple of years ago. Do not remember how I found out. They wanted a receipt but I managed to get them to honor it. You might check the gov CPSC site. May have been one of those "silent recalls", I searched the cpsc for Craftsman and twin cutter.
Bob
For those who have fought for it Freedom has a flavor the protected will never know.
Edited 8/10/2009 10:05 pm ET by rasconc
Thanks Bob, I didn't buy it so I don''t have receipt.
If you got it as a gift tell them that. Usually works. I did not have to cause a big scene but did have to go through a couple of levels of authority. For those who have fought for it Freedom has a flavor the protected will never know.
"Gave up adn went back to recip. It smelled like the motor was cooking."Did you give up because it was too slow or just because you were afraid you would cook the motor? (or both).If something is working well, I have no qualms with frying a motor....especially if the tool is still new/under warranty. For instance: I bought a Ryobi power planer (the only Ryobi tool I have ever bought) just because I had to plane super hard, very dirty barn beams. I burnt 2 before finishing up; I was going to just return the third but morals got in the way. It will be my framing plane now.I'm not really concerned how slow the twin cutter is in wood, I just want a good tool for cutting metal. DC
Can't remember all the details. Seems like it was an issue of visibility to be able to take 1 1/2" off ends for correct fit. A little hard to get a good square cut. No shoe on the saw. It was not getting overloaded, the wood was redwood. It did cut fairly fast. I see the use for metals to be much better.
The deck was a horror story in it's own right. Unbelieveable spans, built before joist hangers were readily used.
Makita has a pretty reasonable metal circ saw and others here swear by the HF blades.For those who have fought for it Freedom has a flavor the protected will never know.
the only advantage of this tool is that it doesn't bounce or chatter when you first hit the metal since the teeth of the counter rotating blades limit the depth of cut, so the plunge is controlled, other than that they're just metal cutting blades. I use a cordless saw with a base, unhinge depth adjustment, plunge, lock and rip, no problem ..
I have the Ket shears. Sphere is right in that they don't do well on 5V. I got the nippler head for the tool and it works much better. I also bought the cement board shears for the same tool body and it is great.
One trick I learned with the nipler head. It will adjust to any position around the front of the drill body and you can turn the nippler opening 360 degrees around thecutting axis (does that make sense?). By stetting the head at 9*0 degrees to the drill body and the cutting axis perpendictular to the body you can easily over the ribs without the drill handle or cord bottoming out on the flats.
Not a good description, I'm sure. but if you get a nippler head for a Ket drill body it is easy to figure out.
The only problem i have had is that it won't cut the panels at the laps. I should have gotten the heavier duty model and that wouldn't be an issue.
Ok, just got the sears from Andy , tried it on a 1x6 white pine, sweet. Then a hunk of drip edge ( copper) sweet, and then on this poly carb with thin walls, sweet.
I have NO complaints other than the guard needs to be held back and the switch is trigger on, vs, constant on. I can wire the guard back. And maybe rig a foot , other than that, I'd cut roofing metal without a problem, it shreds less than a single blade for sure.
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The copper pic was too blurry but I'd buy the tool at full price from sears, but not the TV deal I don't think.
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This stuff is pretty fragile and can be a pain to cut well.
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Edited 8/24/2009 7:50 pm ET by Sphere
Edited 8/24/2009 7:53 pm ET by Sphere
Probably a little late here...
Not all nibblers can cut metal with a profile in it... or curves.
Another option are double cut shears. The cheap ones from Kett, Milwaukee and DeWalt will not cut ribbed metal well at all... but you can get versions from Draco, Fein and Trumpf that will... if you want to spend the money... and it depends on the depth of the profile.
The Malco Turbo Shears work just like a pair of snips, so if snips won't cut it well, neither will the Turbo Shears. The Turbo Shears work best in straight and left cut applications on flat metal.
You would be amazed at what an 18v Milwaukee metal cutting saw will do. The guard system on a metal cutting saw is different than a wood cutting saw- the metal chips are nasty. The noise is deafening... but it sure cuts good. I got one as a bare tool for less than $50 from Tool Up.
Yes, you can put a ferrous cutting blade in a regular wood saw and cut, but the chips fly everywhere. The chips are pointy and hot... not good for the eyes.
Regular carbide blades will cut metal too, but the tooth angle is different. The metal blade limits how aggressive you can cut so the saw doesn't bind. Edit: The tooth angle on a wood blade can grab thin metal and do unpredictable, nasty things. I cut some 3" round downspout on my Makita SCMS. Yeah, it cut it fine, but once, at the end of the cut, the blade grabbed the cutoff and flung it. Fortunately, no one was there at the time. Use the proper blade for the job.
A Festool saw with a metal cutting blade in it also works good.
Do not cut metal without safety glasses and side shields. Adding a full face shield is also a good idea. Brush the cuttings off your face/eyebrows/hair before taking off the glasses. Seriously.
Edited 8/25/2009 8:24 am ET by danski0224
Looks interesting - and for cuting sheet metal, it just might be the cats' meow.
Still, a few things stood out to my eye.
First, at that price, you won't get much in the way of bearings, power, or life. I simply has to be 'DIY' rather than "Pro" quality. Save it for those special tasks where the usual tools don't work well.
Second was the matter of size. It's a fairly small tool. Keep that in mind; if you're cutting yards of metal, find another way.
Another size issue was the motor; there's not much motor there. Don't expect a lot of power, or life, from it.
I suspect the blades are proprietary, and may not be easily found.