Replies

1. 
   Sphere | Jan 28, 2004 02:05am | #1

   I want to know too, I can get scads of it for free..so c'mon guys..fill us in.

   Go Stab yourself Ya Putz! Ya think I Parked here?
1. 
   Sphere | Feb 04, 2004 04:00pm | #2

   OK   Time for a BUMP..I have a van full of this stuff...and a never ending supply...so what say all?

   Go Stab yourself Ya Putz! Ya think I Parked here?

1. 
   rjw | Feb 04, 2004 05:05pm | #4

   I'd wonder about gaps and imprecise fitting. My understanding is that seemingly insiginbificant gaps in insulation can lead to significant degradation of performance, although I don't have direct experience with that.

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1. 
   Sphere | Feb 04, 2004 05:52pm | #5

   my plans are : I have cavernous wall thickness on my gable ends of the upstairs of the log house..on the order of ten plus inches. The gable is studded on the exterior to carry the clapboard siding..no sheathing or paper behind it. On the inside it is studded for the SR. it was insulated with 6" of FG and poly. under the SR. I tore it all out, full of mud wasps and bird nest material.

   I intend to press fit the ridgid FG with the foil facing out against the back of the claps, then foam in any cracks along the stud sides. Fill up the remaining space in the stud depth and tape all the seams ( I also get the alum. tape for next to free). Thenn proceed to allow the center area to remain dead air, by filling in between the SR studs the same way..A total of 7" of compressed FG and about 4" of dead air. Vapor barrier both facing the siding and the back of the SR. The alum. skin HAS to be a VB..I think.

   On the bearing walls again upstairs here..the logs stop 40'' or so above the floor, the pole rafters sit on top of the plate log..no tail or level soffit. A stud wall as well to carry the SR inboard of the logs. There I will seal the chinking with foam spray, and layer in either 2" pink board or the duct board. Dead air space then fill the stud bay with again 2" pink or FG , If the inner most laver is FG board with the foil facing heated side, tape with foil tape right over the stud face and SR as normal.

   Now, on to the sloped cieling..sister 2x6 along the pole rafters, leaving a space of the pole rafter thickness for air flow under the steel roof...then 2'' pink spanning 2x6 to 2x6 in the bay created, 1x3 furring perp. to the 2x6's foil faced FG board between the furring and flush taped. Followed by SR as standard.

   The collar ties are the cieling joists..not stripped yet, and I am not planning on stripping them, presently it is 1/2 SR over 1/2" t&g , with 6" fG batts, I will blow cellulose in above all that(when I create the gable vents for acces) and possibly fur out and FG Board and tape that face as well then SR.

   It is not a real large area, and making it tite as possible will help with sweating or condensate..and the foil ought to provide some reflctive plusses as well.

   I do not know what the R value of FG board is tho', and the 2'' foam is in the places where I would expect to have the greatest impact..that sloped cieling is 10/12 due south exposure..full sun and gets that roof cooking.

   Sorry this went so long but it is a differnt kinda job for sure..oh yeah, I got the 3 dormers too..ever see the pics?

   Go Stab yourself Ya Putz! Ya think I Parked here?

1. 
   Sphere | Mar 11, 2004 04:53am | #6

   OK, here's the news. This stuff is more itchy than batts. It goes quick with a drywall square and a hunting knife. It dulls the knife real fast. For bays, cut it strong and use a hammer and block to set it. Don't buy special tape..packing tape is fine (with the dispenser) .Stagger the joints of the layers. At 4.3 R per inch..a 2x4 bay is 12.9..not bad.

   would I do it again?...only if it was free. anything that is faster like celluose, or spray foam is probly better..but again, I can get truckloads of this stuff for the haulin.

   I had only one "conventional" wall to do..foil out, first layer middle layer what ever I felt like ( I decided on foil out again, it is easier to trim the glass then the foil with scrim) and the inside layer foil in..with the tape.

   My wireing is smack dab center in the studs..so I could fit outside layer no prob..the middle layer I slit around the wire and it worked great. The only hassel was that I had odds an ends to work with not full boards..so more fitting of hunks vs sheets.

   This concludes the experiment.

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2. 
   TLRice | Feb 04, 2004 04:44pm | #3

   Never heared of anyone recently using pressed FG as building insulation, but for years pressed fiberboard, like Fescoboard or Armstrong were used in roofing insulation. My house, built in 1970, was sheathed in 1" Armstrong. Was a decent supplement to the R-11 in the stud bays. Presently, there are better values (Sphere's zero cost excepted) in rigid insulation. Rigid foam typically will give twice the insulation per inch of thickness, is easier to work with and is readily available to most. Pressed FG board, as you have noticed, is not typically found on the shelves of your local hardware/home center store.

   Aside from the products available and regularly used in the HVAC industry, I do not know of a source for what you describe. Can it be used as insulation without problem? Absolutely. BTW, the most common source of HVAC ductboard of any decent quality is Johns-Manville.

   Tim