Dumb kitchen question – DWV height

OK, I’ve read three books, and talked to a local appliance installer, and can’t find the answer: at what height should I place the DWV stub-in for the kitchen sink, and what’s the best location (center, left, etc.)? We’re installing a drop-in sink in a conventional kitchen cabinet, and, while we’re not installing a garbage disposal now, I’d like it set up for one in case we sell.
Replies
Well, I don't know if it's best, but the one in my kitchen is 18" above the floor and in line with the centerline of the sink. I have a garbage disposal and had no trouble installing it.
George Patterson
i really like the sinks that drain to one side vs the center...
guess it depends alot on your sink... a 10" deep sink wouldn't have the same issues as a 6" deep sink...
p
We do it kind of wierd but it works and meets code here in NC. We put the stub-out about 8" off the floor and use a sch 40 chrome nut tub trap to a trap adaptor then catch the tubular dish washer waste and elbow out to pick up the sink drain with room for storage under the sink. The photo here shows it installed with two drawers under the sink. Saves space and if I ever need to convert it to wheelchair access all I have to do is pull the drawers out and I have a great big kneehole under the sink.
http://www.chandlerdesignbuild.com/files/offsetPlumbingComplete.pdf
Of course your plumber or plumbing inspector may bust a gasket over it. It's legal in my area. We sell it as a handicap feature "aging in place design." Since NC State is a big universal design center we get good support for wierd things that help keep people out of nursing homes.
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"You cannot work hard enough to make up for a sloppy estimate."
According to JLC best practices, they reccomend a rough-in height of 12-15" above the subfloor.
In terms of centering or not, their reccomendation is 2-4" off center from the sink drain that doesn't feed into the garbage disposal (for a double bowl sink).
JT
Oh yes the non-existent stub out standard, which for some reason always changes from jobsite to jobsite.
16" is very common for kitchen sinks, 18" is common for lavs.
If the stub is to one side or the other that gives you more freedom to add on things later.
Generally I'm not a big fan of dead center, cause I rarely ever see anyone actually hit dead center.
I fear no man & only one GOD. Me
I'll see if I can sneak a related question in here. I am remodeling my 1957 vintage kitchen and the kitchen sink DWV is a 1 1/2" copper pipe that sticks out from the wall about 10" and then has a 45 degree elbow and and a reducer that used to go to the sink (now demoed). When I cut this thing off to sweat on a threaded male fitting, how much of the 1 1/2" copper pipe should I leave sticking out from the wall?
That depends on what kind of male adapter.
Standard 1.5" male adapters are usually too thick to be able to slide the slip joint trap arm in to.
That leaves "code adapters" ( usually cast brass sweat x male threads), & "marvel" rings ( cast brass male threads on the outside sweat connection on the inside) usually about 1/2" front to back.
The "code adapters" need enough Clarence to be able to solder between the fitting & the back of the cab.
The "marvel rings" solder from the front so they can be even closer to the back of the cab.
I like to keep mine as tight to the back as possible then use a "box escutcheon" to cover up the nut.I fear no man & only one GOD. Me
about the height of a hammer handle
We try to get the location to the side of the cabinet at or below discharge height of the sink/disposal combination. We do this because we usually install pullout shelves in the base cabinet and try to maximize space beneath the sink. With all the DWV lines in the center, you are not left with much space at all. We also wire the disposal and dishwasher receptacles as high as possible on the same side to keep everything consolidated.
Bruce