Replies

1. 
   McDesign | Dec 31, 2008 07:23pm | #1

   I tend to inset the tub flange in the framing a little deeper than flush, and then let the rock hang down over, to within ~1/8" of the tub rim.  Touching just leaves scratches that may not get covered by tile . . . (ask me how I know!)

   Forrest

2. 
   renosteinke | Dec 31, 2008 07:27pm | #2

   Well, look at it this way: do you want to be able to replace the tub without trashing the tile job?

   I'd put the flange against the Durock, and cover the flange with the bottom course of tile.

   Though ,,, maybe that's my ignorance speaking ... I am NOT a tile pro!

3. 
   JeffinPA | Jan 01, 2009 03:03am | #3

   I have always stopped the durrock at the flange.  That leaves a hollow spot about an inch high between the tub (shower pans too) and the durrock.

   Unless i am using a 2" high tile (which I have never used there) the tile will float the gap and still be secured to the durrock above. 

   I have never had a problem with this and dont get that goofy curl in at the bottom caused by setting the durrock over and not recessing the flange in the framing.

   I dont know why a person would do it the other way but would be willing to listen if they have some compelling thoughts.

   Oh, by the way, with nothing for the caulk to stick to behind the tile, the caulk could actually perform better as it would work more as designed.

1. 
   Shep | Jan 01, 2009 04:23pm | #8

   I'm one of those who lap the backerboard over the flange. I usually just shim the wall above the flange with 1/4" ply strips so the board doesn't have that flare at the bottom, but sometimes I've notched the stud so the tub flange can be behind the wall face. 

   The main I do it that way is because if you just set the backer on the flange, the only thing keeping the wall from leaking is the tile and the grout. I've repaired several jobs where it was done that way when proper maintenance of the grout wasn't done.

   I do run tar paper over the studs, over the flange, down to the tub to divert any water that might get behind the backerboard. I also caulk the backerboard to the tub before I tile, then also caulk the tile.

1. 
   JeffinPA | Jan 01, 2009 04:44pm | #9

   I have seen the shim process work before.

   I Built a lot  of production homes and to attempt to oversee shimming or  notching into the studs would be marginal brain damage.

   I always was able to manage the trades keeping the durrock (actually in those days it was greenboard) up.

   I'd never had any leak issues and we were unique as a builder as we would go back 5 years later and help with any problems if a client called us.  (fortunately we had pretty good systems and superintendents and rarely got those calls (got one after a hurricane for a small roof leak that i fixed myself))

   I like the felt paper idea but my concern is if water got behind the tile, would it bleed thru the felt paper quickly enough to not cause any potential mold growth.  Granted, I dont think there is anything that would support mold (durrock, nails, mastic (??) tile and grout but where we did see a problem was when we put poly on the walls behind the greenboard.  (We used poly on exterior walls and unfaced insulation)

   Only happened when tub was on exterior walls but if any moisture got behind the tile, the wall came apart.

   I fixed that little issue pretty quickly by doing away with the poly on those walls.

4. 
   davidmeiland | Jan 01, 2009 03:52am | #4

   If this is a tub/shower, the thing you need to consider is how to make the waterproofing overlap the flange. My preferred method is to set the tub (or shower base) so that the tile backer completely overlaps the flange. This means either framing the room so that the tub is recessed into the framing slightly, or furr out the framing with rips of 1/4" ply. Then, install the board followed by a surface applied waterproofing.

5. 
   MikeMicalizzi | Jan 01, 2009 04:22am | #5

   I meet it.

   Have done it like that about a dozen times,no call backs, no leaks.

   This also gives you a half inch of play in a retrofit situation where the framing tends to be slightly off.

   I couldn't imagine the hassle of cutting kerfs...

   However, if it really bothered you, and you really wanted the walls to meet the tub, you could just fill that gap in with thin-set (mesh tape first). This method would actually be necessary if you were installing mosaics (itty-bitty tiles).

6. 
   MSA1 | Jan 01, 2009 06:33am | #6

   We run the hardi to the top then we caulk the seam.

   If you overlap without insetting the tub, the tile wont lay flat. 

    

   Family.....They're always there when they need you.

7. 
   xxPaulCPxx | Jan 01, 2009 11:44am | #7

   If you use WEDI board, you can go right down to below the flange (hog out the back) and be water PROOF!

   Tu stultus es
   Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
   Also a CRX fanatic!

   Look, just send me to my drawer.  This whole talking-to-you thing is like double punishment.

8. 
   andybuildz | Jan 01, 2009 06:53pm | #10

   I've done it just about every way everyone's mentioned one time'r n other. I've also put my 30# felt paper againt my stud wall first and overlapped it over the tub flange then run my Hardi to the top of the flange. Covered it all in  tile.

   In the way past more times then not I'd add thin shim shingles on top of the flange and run my BB over that and over the flange. 6 a 1 _ 1/2 of the utter : )

    

    

    

   http://www.cliffordrenovations.com

   http://www.ramdass.org

    

9. 
   yojimbo2 | Jan 02, 2009 04:48am | #11

   First of all you should be using Hardibacker, a much nicer and easier product to work with.

   I meet the flange, and then when I tape and thinset the joints, I tape and fill that space in as well. I end up with a fast, flat, and easy installation.