Replies

1. 
   davidmeiland | Dec 15, 2003 11:04pm | #1

   I've used both and I guess I prefer the 1/2" Hardi because I just like thicker sheet goods in general. Bed it in thinset and screw it down with hi-lo screws. An important thing with these products is to read the manufacturer's instructions, which I'm sure you can find online. They give you the recommended applications and compatible adhesives, etc. Read and follow. A good tile store will be able to sell you the right thinset and probably a latex liquid to mix it with, which I also like.

   You say there's plenty of subfloor, but it's also the framing you're concerned about. You want almost no deflection in your framing (recommendation is L/360, which ain't much!). It is very common to find a situation where the owner wants tile and the framing is not technically up to it--especially if you're going to put a big island in the middle with a granite top.

   Finally, gauged slate or ungauged? It's a time-consuming and skilled task to set either, and especially the ungauged.

1. 
   Doc | Dec 15, 2003 11:12pm | #2

   It's 2/10 doug fir on 16" centers spanning 10 feet.  There is also cross bridging between the joists.  The slate is also gauged. 

2. 
   FrankB89 | Dec 16, 2003 04:27am | #3

   Denshield and hardibacker are two different animals. 

   Denshield tileguard is a Georgia Pacific product and is a "water resistent" gypsum product.  It's easy to cut, like drywall and perhaps a little easier to handle.  As I recall, it's limited to 1/2" and, like gypsum board, comes in 4' X 8' sheets.  However, I'm not convinced of its water resistance and would be wary of using it in a kitchen or bath.  I had to haul a unit of it about 100 miles, all shrinkwrapped and tarped, but one corner of a couple sheets got wet and were a little soggy and unusable.

   I've used it once, at the owners request....it was new to me....but from the installers view, it was pretty friendly.  We thinsetted it down, taped and thinsetted the joints and used screws.  Piece of cake. No problems for the tile guy that I'm aware of.

   Personally, I like  cement board.  But thickness is often dictated by your subfloor structure and/or finished elevations you're trying to achieve to match up with adjoining floor surfaces (carpet, vinyl, wood, etc.).  1/4" is, of course, easier to handle and work with, but may require a lift of underlayment to achieve aforementioned elevations.  1/2" is always better, IMO, especially on larger tiles.

    

   
   

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   Edited 12/15/2003 8:30:45 PM ET by Notchman

1. 
   Doc | Dec 16, 2003 06:20am | #4

   Sorry about that.  I realize now that I look at it that I did indeed confuse two products.  I too prefer Durock, but curious if anyone else has any views.  Maybe things are different other places, but here the 1/2" durock is always cheaper than the 1/4".  I've always thought that to be strange, but maybe it's due to supply and demand.  Again, all input is appreciated.  Thanks again.

3. 
   haveasafeday | Dec 16, 2003 06:44am | #5

   Good info from all.  L/360 in your case is about 5/16".  Follow manuf. to letter (tape,screw and glue) and should have good results.