I have a set of plans that require a “dutchman” repair to split clapboard. The drawings describe the process as a 2″ diameter by 1/16 thick biscuit repair every 12″ o/c …. I assume I would be using a dowel for the “biscuit”. This is an historic building and I have never fixed siding that way. If anybody has any idea’s I would appreciate it.
P.S. They also have me breaking out the bid using sq ft pricing for the “dutchman’s”
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Replies
Dowel as you describe won't cut it. End grain will show like a sore thumb even after paint.
Take a hole saw and remove the pilot bit, chuck it in a drill press and clamp down a block of Cypress or Cedar or Yellow Poplar 1.5" thick and about a 2' long..set the drill press to dril almost all the way thru..leave an 1/8 th or so attached.
Now using a band saw with a rip fence rip the plank edge wise at the desired thickness and repeat till you run out of stock..count how many disc's you have created and carry on as long as needed to get the required number.
Make the holes ( sounds like someone did for blown in insulation) and glue in you patches just a SMIDGE proud and after the glue dries a quick swipe with a plane or a beltsander will flush em up.
I've done this, it works.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Success is not spontaneous combustion, you have to set yourself on Fire"
Thank you for the reply, They have me drilling the holes in any split pieces of siding around the building to repair the seam..... The method of repair just seemed to be above and beyond a typical repair job....also I had never heard of a dutchman repair being referred to as a biscuit
Thats a new one on me too..like I said, I've patched insul holes.
Seems like the idea is to head off a crack by interuppting the grain weakness with new wood. I've done similar on guitars soundboards, but from inside, not visable.
I'd be thinking you need the plugs/biscuts at least 1/4" thick if not thicker..if so, punching them out of planed stock may be slightly better if you have a self ejecting hole saw, but that would require shutting off the drill press after every few plugs, when the saw fills up..not fun. Thats why I said do a block and rip them all at once..they'll fall all over the floor..so a stripe of tape across the faces will help hold them in the waste as you saw.
How many are we talking here? 20 or 2000? I might be inclined to try something else if it is in the 1,000's range.
You do want face grain, not end grain..and dowels are ( esp that size) rarely really round.
I knowif you set up properly, you can really crank em out pretty fast. And be consistant.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Success is not spontaneous combustion, you have to set yourself on Fire"