Replies

1. 
   IdahoDon | Dec 01, 2005 05:58am | #1

   You're not asking me, but it's safe to say that skimming over partially removed wallpaper is not a commonly accepted practice since the moisture from the process has a high likelyhood of loosening some of the remaining wallpaper.

   Best of luck,

   Don

    

1. 
   BillHartmann | Dec 01, 2005 06:00am | #2

   Now this paper. It has too many coats of paint.What has come off was what was not adheard properly for years.

1. 
   HeavyDuty | Dec 01, 2005 06:19am | #3

   Are you talking about D-mix?

   I am with Don. If you really want to give it a try may be you should prime/seal the surface first before you float.

1. 
   BillHartmann | Dec 01, 2005 05:19pm | #5

   I am doing a whole room and will try D-mix on some of the walls, but I know Tim had been talking using a primer mud mix for a long time.

1. 
   Mooney | Dec 01, 2005 05:54pm | #6

   You mention the Dmix .

   I still dont understand it for several reasons . Im not talking for or against it . As yet it hasnt been explained or discussed to my satisfaction.

   Other than UGGs objection to it Ive got other issues.

   Ill address it ;

   The Dmix has to be troweled on to "slick" a wall. The POP is supposed to make it easiar but that must mean that you can work it longer as apposed to drywall mud which really has a short working time in thin amounts. Troweling a whole wall by hand doesnt appeal to me at all as there is lots faster equipment out there to render the same results except for possibly a difference in hardness . Of course the faster methods are not for plaster walls.

   So, I believe the Dmix comes from plaster experience and not drywall which Im short on BTW. All my experience comes from drywall. To address a slick wall that is really slick I use float boxes on the entire wall or ceiling with a pump for the mud. A 12 inch float box and a mud pump can float an entire room in  several minutes.

   I dont have any plaster here to work on at all but if I did I would certainly try the Dmix. Since you do I would definately try it .

   Tim

    

2. 
   BillHartmann | Dec 01, 2005 06:39pm | #7

   Maybe your mix is not what I need.Here let me give you some more details.But first a little background. I have been doing some work with a painter including removing paper from DW and repainting. I have had to patch some DW where the DW paper came off. I have been following her directions and just skim coating the torn areas and then sanding it back. It works SORTA, but I don't like it. Keep getting edges of bits of paper that come up when I mud it. And on the last job I had areas where semi torn paper started wrinkling under the mud. But as it dried then flatted back out. But you need to over mud it and sand, sand, AND SAND. I hate it. But after priming and touching up some areas and 2 coats of paint it look OK.My background in DW work is limited. My other experience was a basement finish. But that was mosting new work MUCH, MUCH easier.Now for the details of this job.They are plaster walls, very good condition, except for the a bunch of holes in one wall where toggle bolts had been for some shelving and on one wall I have a cutout for some plumbing work. I am going to patch the cutout with DW tape and hot mud. Likewise hot mud for the toggle bolt holes. This is also my first time working with hot mud, I go 45 min Easy Sand.The rest of the walls are all papered and many coats of paint. I have tried getting some of the paper off and where it is attached it is ATTACHED WELL and where it is not it comes off in chunks.But with all of the paint you don't really have any "paper" left that will get wet soft. Tried that to get off more.So I have smooth walls with irgullar bits of paint/paper showing that I want to cover.Will your mix cover those edges are does it need to be skimmed coated first. Or is more of a supper primer that can just hide the difference in texture and absorbancy between DW and mud. If so I might just straight to D-mix as I think that it has more body.Also one coat of the paint has a light sand texture in it. If I just skim over the patched and papered areas that there will be a noticable difference where the sand is and isn't.My partner on this project and I are trying to flip a house. She is the RE agent and does not think will be a problem, but I think that it will look like ####.This is a relatively low cost house and I am also looking at it as a place to experiment with different process. Not looking for a class 5 finish, just some that is "acceptable". To give you an idea it is a small 60 YO house with wood floors with "character" and orginal wood windows that at least the bottom sash open after much prying scraping and chisling. New vanity and tile in the bathroom.

3. 
   Mooney | Dec 02, 2005 04:43am | #8

   The paper you were having so much trouble with,.. Mud/pva primer.

   The sand on the plaster ,..  dead meat you are.

   I would do the patch and finish with easy sand like you .

   Then I would match the sand in joint compound and spray blend it with a hopper.

   Then mud pva primer over the new sand should look like its been painted a bunch hopefully to match all that paint thats on the wall already. That would be my plan of attack. Or you could shoot regualar hot mud and sand mixed.

   Tim

    

2. 
   Mooney | Dec 01, 2005 06:21am | #4

   First lets get us both on the same page .

   I dont ever trowel that mix. but you dont want to anyway.

   What you said was a papered plaster wall not a drywalled wall. Theres a little difference . If its plaster its better in this case and we can move on. If its not we need to address it.

   You say also that some of the paper has come off or is comming off . This is lifting paint up too the way Im understanding it thats on top of the paper. So Im ready to take off ;

   Any loose paper and paint needs to be adressed at this time . Ive been most successful by cutting the loose paper away at a point where it looks tight to the wall. Of course the paint peeling, lifting or bubbleing is the same .

   When you get everything with in reason taken off that is loose , it needs two coats of oil primer . Sorry. That will soak into the paper edges and glue it in tight. If not , water will only lift it again that it would get from the paint  and mud. So it has to be adressed now or you will just get more of the same you are looking at. One coat of primer has not neen enough for me so Ive had to use two coats to stop the water it will get.

   The oil primer will raise some boogers and they will need to be sanded  off. The walls needs to be smoothly passable for  a trowel or knife.

   The voids needs to be filled with hot mud as less time as you can stand working with becuse we dont want that wall setting there drawing water for a long period of time like over night . If you dont have any quicker than 90 minute,  hot water will cut that in half. Warm water might be the best compromise. The mud it self generates heat to "go off" .

   Once you are satisfied with the finish you can begin rolling the mixture of mud and pva . You need a good mud bit and a little time to whip it up to smooth cream or it will be lumpy. For what you are doing I would go a box of mud which is 4 gallons to 1 gallon of pva . You can add water if you arent hiding anything but that mix will hids a bunch if you dont add any water .

   Roll a wall for about 16 ft with 1 1/2 nap lambs wool roller. Put all on the wall you can get on it . Runs are just fine as you are putting it on . After you get that 16 ft look and see if the water is disapating where you started . It will start to get dull instead of looking wet. Nows the time to roll it over called back rolling . That will catch all the runds and heavy overlaps plus smooth the wall. After that dries it should be semi smooth but will be hiding a lot because of millage.

   If you want some texture to it then roll it out so you dont back roll it and use a rough roller and not a lambs wool as those provide a slick coat.

   Tim