FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

Easy to build wall jacks

user-197434 | Posted in General Discussion on September 25, 2006 06:09am

Greetings,

I’ve been lurking around here for sometime, so i thought I would contribute. Did a search to see if anybody built there own wall jacks. Found a lot of people using the Proctors and a few of you using the qual-craft. I wish I had the money for the Proctors or Tranzporters but I don’t, so I built my own. I was sitting on the can (where I do all my great thinking) and was looking at the PDF parts diagram for the Tranzporter’s and thought the same principle could be done with 2×4’s and crank style winches. This is how I did it.

What you need. 2, 12′ 2×4’s, 1/2″ osb or plywood spacer, 3″ wire sheath or pulley, strap hinge, and crank style winch with cable.

Nail your 2×4’s together with your 1/2″ plywood spacer in the middle ( sort of like a header) the plywood spacer roughly needs to be the same thickness as the wire sheath/ pulley at the top. Install the wire sheath at the top in between the 2×4’s with a big bolt. I must stress that this part doesn’t have to turn like a pulley. The cable just needs something smooth to glide over. A sheath works great. Mount a strap hinge on the bottom. Install the crank on the pole and run the cable over the sheath at the top. I put an L bracket on the end of the cable for hooking under the top plate. Here are a few pics.

Vester

 

 

Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. Mark | Sep 25, 2006 06:18am | #1

    Hey shed!  I actually "invented"  wall jacks  back when I built my first house by myself.  Of course I then discovered that Proctor  had already been marketing them for many years ,  thus dashing my hopes of  patents and millions of $$$ in residuals...ha ha

    Funny thing is,  mine were almost identical to yours.  I used double 2x4s, boat winches with 1/4" steel cables, and hinges.  I think the whole mess cost me less than $75 for the pair.   They've stood up many walls for me in the ensuing years.

    " If I were a carpenter"
  2. moltenmetal | Sep 25, 2006 04:17pm | #2

    Hey- you stole my invention!  Only I used UniStrut instead of 2x4s because I had it at hand and had a use for it when I was done.

  3. oldfred | Sep 25, 2006 04:34pm | #3

    Nice job!

    What size boat winch did you use?   

    I made a rig to lift and float my boat lift and ruined a winch that was too light for the job.   (They seem to be rated for pulling rather thatn lifting.)   Ended up using cheapo come-a-longs, but would like to replace with the winches.

    1. JohnSprung | Sep 25, 2006 07:55pm | #5

      Come-alongs would work slower and lift more weight than the winches.  But they'd have the advantage that you can use them for a lot of other purposes. 

       

      -- J.S.

       

      1. oldfred | Sep 25, 2006 08:38pm | #7

        Agreed.   I'd prefer the winches in both uses - your jacks and my lift.    

        Do you have any idea what the lift capacity is on your winches?   They come in several sizes.

        1. JohnSprung | Sep 25, 2006 09:36pm | #8

          Actually, I have the come-alongs, not winches.  They come in 1 and 2 ton versions, Maasdam is the make.  

           

          -- J.S.

           

          1. oldfred | Sep 25, 2006 10:08pm | #9

            Oops, sorry!   I'm hard-of-reading sometimes.  It's shed builder who has the winches.   I'll try to pay attention.

            If you use the come-a-longs for wall jacks, will the drums hold enough cable for lifting walls or is there some intermediate step involved?

            I do have a Maasdam  come-a-long that uses a 1/2" rope and feeds it through so any length rope can be used.  Do you think that would be safe to use on a wall jack?

            thanks  for your replies,

             oldfred

          2. moltenmetal | Sep 25, 2006 11:06pm | #10

            The cable type come-alongs I have are of limited "throw"- they don't spool enough wire rope to do the job of lifting a wall.  Plus they're a PITA to spool out cable to use the things in the first place.  Proper chain-type come-alongs are still too spendy, but it's only a matter of time 'till the Chinese are mass producing these like the cheap chainfall hoists.  You can now get a chainfall for about 1/4 the price you could about ten years ago.

            If you use a couple jacks, the worries about a single cable failure are reduced somewhat.  And unlike when you're pushing a wall up manually, you're never underneath the lift.  In the unlikely event that it does come down on you, it doesn't come down on "you".  That's worth something to me! 

            I hinged mine on the winch side of my "post" rather than the back side as you've shown in your pics.  Worked better with the UniStrut I was using, plus it gives you good access to screw the strap hinge into the joist. 

          3. user-197434 | Sep 25, 2006 11:31pm | #11

            UniStrut!!  Now we're talking. Never thought of that. It's probably a little bit lighter than the nailed together 2x4's.

            The winches that I used are rated at 1400lbs each. I tested them on the short gambrel wall (16'wx 9't) in the picture. It was fully sheathed with overhangs and facia on. But it lifted it like nothing. The only problem with the winches is, of course, the handle will eventually hit the top plate. I just left my handle loose and kept winching it in half turns. A little bit tedious, but it works, then once the top plate clears the handle it's smooth sailing from there.

            My dad suggested that I can remedy that problem with some socket wrenches and sockets that fit the bolts of the crank.

            The best thing I loved about this setup was the price. $130.00 for everything. Could be a lot cheaper if I ordered the winches but I was in a hurry to try it out so I bought mine at the local Tractor Supply. They were $40.00 a piece. Northern tool has the same winch for around $15-$20.

            Vester 

            Edited 9/25/2006 4:33 pm ET by shed builder

          4. junkhound | Sep 26, 2006 01:14am | #12

            Anybody use hinged vertical 8 ft 4x4, cable from wall to top of 4x4 to truck or tractor on the ground?

  4. User avater
    intrepidcat | Sep 25, 2006 06:38pm | #4

    Looks like a good subject for an FHB article.

     

     

     

     

    "It's always better to have regrets for things you've done than for things you wish you had done..........."

  5. Lansdown | Sep 25, 2006 07:58pm | #6

    How do you plumb and level your windows if you install them while the wall is flat. Or are they just tacked in there and plumbed up later.

    1. blue_eyed_devil | Sep 26, 2006 03:37am | #13

      How do you plumb and level your windows if you install them while the wall is flat. Or are they just tacked in there and plumbed up later

      Windows are installed parallel to the top plate, then squared up by measuring the diagonals. If your deck is level, the window will be level. If your windows are square, and the top is level, the sides will be plumb.

      blue 

      1. Lansdown | Sep 26, 2006 03:49am | #14

        Alot of ifs.

        1. blue_eyed_devil | Sep 26, 2006 05:52am | #15

          Alot of ifs.

          Not really. The main criteria for windows to function properly is that they be hung square. They could be out of level by 1/2" and they still will function perfectly if they are square.

          That said, I've can say that I've hung thousands of windows using the method that I described and I cannot remember one window that wasn't level. It's simple facts: the decks are level, the top plate is parallel, and we set the tops of the window paralell to the top plate. How could the window be anything but level?

          Please note that we never frame on unlevel slabs as many in here do. All our frames are on poured walls or block and if the decks aren't level , we level them with shims. If I had to work off wavy slabs, I'd either figure a way to create a perfectly level top plate, or I'd retire.

          blue 

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

FHB Summit 2025 — Design, Build, Business

Join some of the most experienced and recognized building professionals for two days of presentations, panel discussions, networking, and more.

Featured Video

A Modern California Home Wrapped in Rockwool Insulation for Energy Efficiency and Fire Resistance

The designer and builder of the 2018 Fine Homebuilding House detail why they chose mineral-wool batts and high-density boards for all of their insulation needs.

Related Stories

  • Podcast Episode 686: Brick Steps, Ground-Source Heat Pumps, and Greenhouses in Nova Scotia
  • FHB Podcast Segment: Efficient HVAC for a New Build
  • Affordable Scans, Accurate Plans
  • FHB Summit 2025 — Design, Build, Business

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work
  • Issue 328 - Dec/Jan 2024
    • How a Pro Replaces Columns
    • Passive House 3.0
    • Tool Test: Compact Line Lasers
  • Issue 327 - November 2024
    • Repairing Damaged Walls and Ceilings
    • Plumbing Protection
    • Talking Shop

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data