Well my old Black & Decker circular saw is starting to sound a little different. I’ve had it for years and bought it for $30 second hand. I figured it’s just as well to start looking for a new one now instead of when the old saw gives out.
I can get a Dewalt DW368 for $100 on sale and I like that saw because I used a co-worker’s last year. I even looked at Makita’s website to see what fatures their saws had and I see they have a number of models at a wide range of prices. Some are just plain ole saws while the higher priced models had stuff L.E.D. lights and elctric brakes.
What I’d like to know is have any of you guys ever used the electric brake feature as the reason for buying a circular saw? A Makita model #5007MG (w/electric brake) sells for $179 (not on sale) up here in Canada while a lot of the other brands’ saws without elctric brakes sell for a lot less.
Have any of you guys used the higher end saws by Makita and what do you think of ’em now that you’ve ‘gave ’em the test”?
Should I get a lower priced saw without the brake or a higher priced one with a brake?
Thanks guys
Paul
Replies
I've always regretted buying a brakeless saw, and I'm actually hoping my old Makita will bite the dust on an upcoming Hardi job (sorry, bad pun). It always freaks me out when I toss the saw to the ground with the blade still going +-2000rpm; blade guards have been known to stick. My next saw will have a brake.
Scott.
If you have or are getting an EZ guide, get the brake for sure.
I wish I had one, even for non-ez guide stuff, my cordless stops so quick and one hung blade guard w/out a brake can really hurt your day.
I'd go for it.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
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Guys I forgot to add a couple points to my initial post.
I can get the Dewalt DW368 (without brake) for $100 (not including shipping) via mail order.
I can get the same saw with a case for $160 locally.
or I can get a high end Makita (with electric brake) via mail order for $179, including a case.
What do you think I should do?
It's your call, man. But between the two limited examples you give, it sounds like a brake can be had for $19 of difference. That's chump change considering how long you are likely to use the tool.Scott.
It's worth it. Set that sucker down with a hung up guard ( small shim, or hunk of scrap lodged in it) on a good floor or driveway..you may be buying a floor, a blade, a few toes, a cord...all sorts of costs that exceed that first expense.
I call it insurance.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
The two saws with cases are only $19 difference.Even at $100 vs $179, by the time you factor in the effect on income taxes, the difference will be something like, what, $63? I wished I had had a brake on my circ saw when I was standing cutting up scraps for firewood just after sundown and let the saw swing back a little as I reached for the next piece. The cord got into the still spinning blade and made quite a light show for a couple seconds.BruceT
I have the Porter Cable 325 Mag with brake (got it for the EZ guide) and like it a lot. Would like to get the Mak with mag shoe because it will cut 2x on an EZ base, a lot of the others are just a hair shy in cutting depth on that base.
https://www.heavydutytools.net/Scripts/prodList.asp?idCategory=40
Just saw this:
http://tinyurl.com/mak-saw-ebay
Edit: sorry but these ae the non brake models I believe.
Edited 3/4/2009 6:56 pm ET by rasconc
Edited 3/4/2009 7:03 pm ET by rasconc
Edited 3/4/2009 7:16 pm ET by rasconc
I have the dewalt with the brake and I love it. I don't know if my guard still works, I think it's had the same shim in it for about 3 years now.LOL
dug
I can't believe ya'll are setting a saw down with the blade spinning. There are at least ten ways to stop that blade before it leaves the work....
Habits are easy to create and hard to brake...pardon the pun....I've worked over 30 years with an open blade and haven't never even come close to having an accident. One thing I ALWAYS do is stop the blade before the saw leaves my hand. It's a very simple and safe habit.
Just do it!
I forgot to mention that I would not use a saw with a brake because I often use the trigger to adjust the blade speed when I'm using the saw for some various "alternative" things I do with it like "shaving, shaping, carving, etc."
"One thing I ALWAYS do is stop the blade before the saw leaves my hand. "Do you grab it with thumb and first finger or whole hand? :)BruceT
I usually notice the electric brake wears out in a year.
I like stopping blade in the cut or wait.
ANDYSZ2WHY DO I HAVE TO EXPLAIN TO FRIENDS AND FAMILY THAT BEING A SOLE PROPRIETOR IS A REAL JOB?
REMODELER/PUNCHOUT SPECIALIST
Fingers are often used.
This thread is scaring me.
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Paulcc, if you’re in doubt, then get a saw with a brake.
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I mostly use a Skil77 (or a Mag77). No brake. I find that if you de-trigger near the end of the cut, then the saw is (nearly) stopped when you push out of the cut.
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But I would never rely on the proper function of the blade guard (or the brake if I had one). If I must put the saw down while it is still spinning then I always visually check that the guard is in place.
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Jim x 3
I have a makita with a brake and it is the saw I reach for. Brakes are good.
My blade left one does not have a brake, because I didn't want to spend the extra $15 or whatever at the time. Big mistake. My blade right for the EZ system has a brake, and I certainly would not get another without a brake.
Get a saw with a brake. It may pay for itself in spades if it helps prevent an accident.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
I bought 3 little makitas with brakes as i worried about my guys.
I use a 60s worm drive but hide it if any of the guys were around.
It takes as long to stop as the song "in the gaddadavida"
I used to have a 16" Comet radial arm saw and I swear that you could cut a dozen boards with AFTER you shut it off. Makes the worm drives seem safe.
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
I have a dewalt dw364 with a break but after using it for a while the break did'nt always work. I don't know why breaks on saws stop working but it seems to be a fairly common occurence.
My other circular saw that I use more often has no break and I really wish it did. I wouldn't get another saw without one.
Waiting a few seconds for the blade to stop spinning does'nt sound like a big deal but it starts to get annoying really fast.
For more than a few years,
the only saw I would use was a Dewalt 364K. Back then (93 - 98) it was heavy, and expensive. Maybe $150.
But in my opinion it was the best saw I've used to date.
Framing six days a week all year long I averaged about 18 months per saw. The brake never quit on me, i just felt like it was time for a new one. The old when went in the truck box as a back up.
The brake is worth the price. You can still use the trigger to control saw speed. And i NEVER had a brake fail.
The front of the saw shoe on the 364 can be brittle, but the brake never failed for me.