Replies

1. 
   DanH | Dec 07, 2014 03:18pm | #1

   Probably your best bet, if the framing is suitable, is to install a "retrofit" fan box:

   View Image

   The strut the box attaches to can be installed through the hole you cut for the box, and it unscrews as you twist it to jam itself between the joists.

   Gives reasonably secure mounting without having to be right up against a joist and without having to tear out the ceiling.

1. 
   gfretwell | Dec 07, 2014 09:35pm | #2

   That fan box will be troubling with K&T. You need 2 holes with chase nipples and a slot gut between the holes. If you live in a place with a lot of K&T I would suggest talking to a guy at a real supply house to see what he has.

1. 
   DanH | Dec 07, 2014 11:07pm | #3

   Depends on how the K&T is

   Depends on how the K&T is run.  I assumed that pigtails were run to the box, so you just need to sleeve them as they enter the box.

1. 
   Load | Dec 08, 2014 11:15am | #4

   Lathe

   There is no box.  Just some old fashion mounting plate with a hole in the middle to accept what I think would be a shaft coming from the old light fixture, not the one I removed but one that would have been used when the house was built.  There are two wires that come out of the plate that were attached to the fixture that I removed.  So What do you mean by sleeving.  Is it possible to use the strut box and run the N/T thru that box and mount new fixture.  Will some pics help

   Thanks

1. 
   DanH | Dec 08, 2014 07:01pm | #5

   Pics would help, if you can get enough detail.  There about 50 different ways it might have been done.

2. 
   Load | Dec 09, 2014 09:03am | #6

   Pics

   Hope this helps to show what I have.  The two  capped wires live and used on jerry rigged light

   
3. 
   gfretwell | Dec 09, 2014 12:34pm | #7

   What thread size is that hub threaded for?

   You should be able to get a nipple that will thread into a regular hickey and hang your light from that. If neceassary you can provide additional support for the hickey.

4. 
   Load | Dec 09, 2014 04:16pm | #8

   Thread

   wish it were that easy.  I am back to being stumped once again.  I thought the idea of screwing on a new nimple is gone external theads and an odd size does not match up to new fix threads.  The orignal was just screwed into the lathe.  Any other ideas.  no problems with wires they are sheethed.   

5. 
   calvin | Dec 09, 2014 06:14pm | #9

   Load

   It looks like the wire available could limit what you do.

   In the past we have installed a new shallow (not a pancake, but might be possible) box, taped up the wires where they pass into the box, wire nutted new pigtails so we can make up the connections easier and mouted the multi bracket and light.

   You'll need to remove what you have for the new box installation and deal with what's left to work with.  The hanger bar is one possible, strategic blocking if you can do is another.

   the wire connections need to be made up in an approved electrical box.  What you have now isn't.  Choices are limited to do it properly.

    There are nipple adapters which will take you to that old nipple, a GOOD supplier of parts (Toledo, Ohio has a good long time electrical supply) will carry it.  There's both inside and outside threads.  Knob and tube can be very brittle and should be dealt with carefully.  The insulation around the wire easily can fall off.  As you mess with it you'll have to make the decision to proceed or not.

   re-wire should not be dismissed.  Cost more now, sleep better at night.

   best of luck.

6. 
   Load | Dec 09, 2014 07:04pm | #10

   Reply

   Thanks Calvin   This was gonning to my choice.  Maybe have to open hole a little more to get at more wire and install a plastic box and add more wire.  Looked at the existing wire and there seems to be extra sleeving on it.  Know to well about N/T insulatyon being brittle.   Can I leave the box loose inside the ceiling as I see no way to secure it.  Anything else to look out for.  Like I said there were four wood screws into the lathe before

   Thanks to everybody that donated

7. 
   DanH | Dec 09, 2014 08:27pm | #12

   By wiggling the wires can you get any sort of clue as to how long they are and how much slack there may be up there?

8. 
   DanH | Dec 09, 2014 08:23pm | #11

   Never mind -- at first glance that circle seemed like a plate, but I gather that it's just the "ghost" of the old fixture.

   But the ideal thing would be to fish new romex in from somewhere.

2. 
   deadnuts | Dec 09, 2014 10:46pm | #13

   response should be gaged to the task

   HOw heavy is the new chandelier vs. the old fixture that was installed previously?

1. 
   Load | Dec 10, 2014 06:47am | #14

   Lathe

   The new one is somewhat heaver  not much though,   Running new wire to going to be hard not sure as I have a power to the light

1. 
   calvin | Dec 10, 2014 07:42am | #15

   Load

   Take caution, a switched neutral was not unheard of in those old wire runs.

1. 
   Load | Dec 11, 2014 10:11am | #16

   caution

   While I opened up the ceiling with a small hole, I discovered I have no play in wires.  So I have decided to go with a fan junction box and off set it closer to the way the wires run.  That way no new wire will be have to be added elminating a box and any pigtails, and use existing wire to power new fixture.  Thanks for all the help and I learned a few things.  Will let everybody know how it turns out

3. 
   Load | Dec 15, 2014 09:25pm | #17

   Project Completed

   Finshed my light project.  My final solution was going with the joist pole and box combo.  After insuring that wire would be protected, I had to modifie the box by drilling new holes on side of box.  Used all orignal wire so I feel a little safer..  Thanks for all the help.  For those that are pros do not know how you do it.

1. 
   calvin | Dec 15, 2014 09:47pm | #18

   Good to hear!

   Thanks for returning with the good news.