Replies

1. 
   Dave_Richeson | Dec 19, 2000 11:29pm | #1

   *
   Ron, it sound like a bad breaker. Replace it.

   Dave

1. 
   Kyle_Bartlett | Dec 20, 2000 03:01am | #2

   *Posted by Fryed Always use the coorect brand circut breaker. I suspect its buzzing because of a bad connection.

1. 
   Rein_Taul | Dec 20, 2000 03:20am | #3

   *Get some stoves or clocks on that circuit fast!Seriously, can you tell if the buzzing is the breaker switch or the contact with the panel?I have seen those breakers a little loose on the contact bar after a bad install. This can happen with a wire as heavy as 8ga, especially if the electrician didn't do a good job of stuffing them in the panel.

1. 
   The_Tennis_Court_Builder_...on_t | Dec 20, 2000 04:46am | #4

   *What's 80% of 40? You should have a 50 amp circuit for a 37 amp constant draw...and you would have if I did it.Oh well amateur land....aj

1. 
   SamD_ | Dec 20, 2000 06:34am | #5

   *AJ, At least Ron flipped the breaker...... But how come a licensed electrician did this? Sam

2. 
   Phill_Giles | Dec 20, 2000 07:42am | #6

   *There may be more to this: per my catalog here (and assuming that we're talking about 'plug-in' breakers), Cutler-Hammer breakers only fit C-H and Commander load centres. For Siemen's boxes, I only see Siemen's and Square D with the same "type". These catalog listing are infamous for errors of ommision and therefore your breaker/box combination may be entirely valid; but, that would make me nervous enough to double-check it.

3. 
   Al_Hargis | Dec 20, 2000 02:02pm | #7

   *Ron, I agree with Jack, the breaker should be a 2 pole 50 amp breaker. As to the warmth of the breaker, most plug-in breakers are thermal breakers. This means that they heat as their load increases and when max. load occurs, max. temperature is also reached and the breaker will trip or open to disconnect the circuit. Many breakers will fit into other manufacturers panels, but I do agree that matching panel and breaker type within the same manufacturer will always be right.

4. 
   Art_B | Dec 20, 2000 02:57pm | #8

   *AJ and Al are right. You should have a 50 A breaker. Also, if your #8 wire is type TW, you need to change it to THW or better to be safe at the 50 A protection level of the breaker (look up the temperature capabilities of wire insulation in the code or wire mfg catalog). Your voltage is likely 240V for 8KW (look at your nameplate), so you really only have 33.3 A if you are serviced with only 220 which is still over the 20% required derating for a 40A breaker. At 220 V, you would only have a 6720W or so heater, assuming NiChrome or Tophet wire in the heater coils. Based on this thread and a couple of 208/240 and stove threads, I don't think I'll ever let anyone else in my house with anything electrical.

5. 
   RonK_ | Dec 20, 2000 05:21pm | #9

   *Thank you for the responses.I guess I will have to kick the elctrician's butt.It was a licensed electrician used by my, remodeler contractor, neighbour.When I was a builder, for 20 yrs, I had a brilliant electrician who did the job like it was his own home.I sure miss those times, wrestling a desk these days instead of 2 x 4's.

6. 
   calvin_ | Dec 21, 2000 01:27am | #10

   *Ron, this will cure you. Push that desk out in the snow. And have a Merry Christmas.

2. 
   RonK_ | Dec 21, 2000 01:27am | #11

   *
   My electrician installed a double pole 40 amp breaker for the furnace in the shop. The breaker is now buzzing and is warmer than all the others.

   The furnace is 8000watts so at 220V it should draw about 37 amps. The wire is about 20ft of #8. The Panel is Siemens but the breaker is Cutler Hammer. I suspect this incompatibility is the cause of the buzzing. I have switched it off before my wife yells at me for burning the house down.

   I would appreciate some third party input from the electricians on this board.

   Thanks for your input and enjoy the Holidays.

   Ron.