I’ve got a project in the pipeline that I’ve got a problem with. It’s an elevated 12’x34′ deck on a narrow sloping yard. Deck height against the house is about 11 feet next to the house and 12 feet away from the house, which is the width of the deck it’s going to be about 17-18′. Problem I have is I’m running out of ideas for a surface to work from. I’m thinking of pinning a temp ledger onto the exposed foundation of the house and then erect a short section of shoring scaffolding beyond the deck width and leveling it out with the ledger then lay out some joists and create a temporary deck to work off of which will also protect the planter box full of native plants which the owner wants to preserve. Any other ideas?
I haven’t been visiting here much because I’ve been depressed and out of work like many of you all too, but I’ve got this one in the pipeline and was looking for ideas.
Thanks
BjR
Edited 5/26/2009 9:34 pm ET by BjR
Replies
I think I'd remove the plants with the old deck, and set my staging up in between the new outside supports and the house, with the scaffolding at a height where I could comfortably stand while working with the joists at chest level. You'll have to move the staging a couple of times if you only have one tower.
k
BjR,
First - if you would reduce the size of the image it'd be easier to get a feel for your problem. If I understand it, 12' out from the house the deck height is 17+'.
Pinning a ledger to the foundation is probably a good start. Consider standing your posts and bracing as necessary, then use them to fasten a temp rim of sorts to. You could use planks from temp ledger to temp rim, just slide them along as you roll joist.
I would set the foundation ledger at about 6 or 7 feet and level out to temp rim, your deck would construct at waist level. Sounds doable. And comfortable.
Sig #2: Never argue with an idiot. They will drag you to their level and beat you with experience.
Is that a TV sticking out the side of the house?
I'd rent some pipe scaffold and scaffold the whole length.
Here's a couple resized pic's.
Sorry about that i thought the first one was resized.
BjR
View ImageIntimidation is the sincerest form of battery
Ok - I got it, sticking with my thought re the rim on new posts ......... and then pump jacks at the house to the level of the temp post rim .... bingo, a platform.Sig #1: If two people are exactly alike, then one of them isn't necessary.
Sig #2: Never argue with an idiot. They will drag you to their level and beat you with experience.
I see now that my idea won't work, was thinking the foundation wall was higher.
So, next! :) , ummmm ...
I'm still thinking about the part of my idea using the erected and braced posts to put a temp rim (ledger) on, but getting back to the house for the other end .... - I'll think about it some more, gotta run for now .... have a couple early fires to put out.
Sig #2: Never argue with an idiot. They will drag you to their level and beat you with experience.
You mention the deck you are going to build will be approx 12ft X 34ft. The pics of the existing deck seem to be approx 12ft. X12 ft; so I take it you are going to extend the new deck pretty much the length of the house?
If so, that flower bed is gonna give you trouble when it comes time to dig the other post hole locations. It's gonna be in your way, or at the very least get trampled on when digging, so best thing to do is to tell the homeowner you can't save his flower bed. Have the home owner transplant the flowers to another location before you start the job; if he is really that serious about keeping them.
If it was me, I'd set up some pipe scaffolding to run lengthwise from house to deck post. Errect two (sets) scaffold high...this gives you up to a 10 foot working platform height; and/or any height in-between that you feel comfortable with. Position the 8 ft long scaffold set-up directly centered between the 12 foot deck width. This would put you within 2ft (arm's length) working distance for working on either the ledger board side or the rim joist side.
Errect another set of pipe scaffold in the same fashion as the first about 8 - 10 feet away from the first set. Set up planks to connect to both pipe scaffolding "towers". You now have a working platform that will enable you to work on all deck components from house to post for at least the first 18 -20 ft of deck length. ( each scaffold platform at the top is 4 ft wide plus the 10-12 ft span apart =18/20ft).
You can set up another pipe scaffold tower farther "downstream" and again connect with planking in-between to extend the total working length to approx 34ft. Thus with 6 sets total of pipe scaffolding, plus some planking, you got the whole job covered.
I personally would rather work off of pipe scaffolding that was "independent" of relying on deck posts. Most times when I build decks, I set the posts in the holes and cross brace them, but I don't backfill the post holes until the deck framework is all in place and squared-up. Therefore, If I was to tie-in a makeshift scaffold to the new posts, those posts would have to be really braced-off right, or backfilled first; before proceeding with the frame building.
Davo
I've come to the same conclusion that scaffolding is the way to go and I have a scaffolding sub coming out to take a look tomorrow and give me a number for giving me a working height platform . And yes the existing deck and stairs is coming off and the new deck will be just about the length of the house. The planter box is a problem and the outside posts will be just outside of the planter. And no the HO is not interested in transplanting the plants. I've already beat that horse with him. What I think I'll do is after the platform is erected I'll bag the underside of the platform as best as I can and direct the tarps to slope away from the planter towards the rockery retaining wall.
Good ideas all. Thanks
BjR
This is off the subject, but it looks to me that the existing deck posts are made from 4x4s? Being that they are approx 17 ft tall, I would opt for something beefier, say at least a 4x6...perferably a 6x6 post. That's not to say a 4x4 would not work, but IMHO a bigger post would look better, seem more sturdier in a viewer's eyes, and actually would be stronger...especially against racking/twisting motions.
Although I've worked on 50 ft tall water cooling towers, made up entirely of vertical running 4x4 posts bolted together in 10 ft joints, I really like to rely on beefier support posts.
I never use anything smaller than a 4X6 on decks up to 8ft high, and always use 6x6s on decks higher than that. Most times, nomatter what, I use 6x6s. I guess I just like em.
Just my 2 cents.
Good luck on your build. Hope you get "called back" to work soon or find a better job. I know all too well about work lay-offs. I've been laid off for 5 months now. Not too promising for us steelworkers.
Davo
The final design will be spec'd by the engineer so I don't have to take on the liability for design/failures due to design anyways. If the drawings say a 4x4 will be fine I'll do that.
BjR
sheet of ply on the ground and a 12ft step ladder.
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa