Short version of the story…..
If I sell my old home (ca. 1944), all I have to do is disclose that there may be lead paint in it. BUT… I’m trying to get it ready as a rental. It’s in a Maryland area that requires several inspections, including one by the Maryland Department of the Environment that’s basically a lead survey(and that’s an annual certification).
I got a few of the lead test kits at the Orange Box, most of the test swabs showed nothing. But the exterior doors and jambs lit up like a Christmas tree.
Windows were swapped out a year ago with vinyl double-hungs, and most of the interior has been painted since then.
What paint would be best to seal or encapsulate the doors and the jambs behind the bronze weatherstrip? Will it last? Is this likely to be an expensive recurring problem?
It’s a pretty well-built home in a desirable area, I’d like to hold on to it, but can’t afford to sink a ton of money into it.
Replies
Self-serving bump
Hate to say it, ut strip it and be done with it.
I am on a site now, that is being totally de-leaded, it really isn't THAT bad to doa few doors and Jambs..heat gun and a day of scraping. Reprime with Oil and be done.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"If you want something you've never had, do something you've never done"
There are a number of encapsulants available, and most good paint stores should be able to recommend one. Most are quite thick and may hide detail when applied to trim.
The main problem with lead paint is not the intact paint on surfaces (except surfaces like window stool, where a child might chew), but dust from friction surfaces. Friction surfaces include door and window jambs, where opening and closing the door or window will create dust. Encapsulants are not recommended for these surfaces. So if the problem is with the doors, windows or sash, the best bet is to remove the lead paint (or install jamb liners in the window jambs).