Two-stud corners permit better insulation. Use Simpson’s clip for handling the sheetrock fastening.
Where interior walls tee to exterior, flatwise 2x4s on 24 centers permit better insulation.
Here is the question. Would either or these or both be allowed by your local AHJ?
The most common way to make your own parging mix is to use either Type S mortar for block or Type N for brick and add a concrete bonding additive.
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IRC leaves it up to the BI really. Mine has no problem with 2 studs and anything to support the DW.
here's thread started a while ago sim to yours 118313.1
What about single top plates, moving windows in stud bays to minimize headers, etc? A couple of things come to mind. The first being whether such modifications really significantly improve the performance of the building envelope, and at what expense? The second being are there simple modifications to the design of the house or other components that would be more effective?
I doubt that it would be very difficult to get a much larger increase in insulating value by, for example, reducing very minimally the size of non-south facing windows or incorporating a vestibule into the front entry of the house.
To actually answer your question: Both the corners you show would be fine by our code and its local enforcers.
Of course they would. Structurally they are just fine. Personally, I do the 3 stud corner ... better solid support for GWB ... better would be 3/4" CDX plywood ripped to say 5+". You get good insulation w/ little sacrifice.
Personally there are lots of other areas for framing savings. Framing can end up being a high percentage of wall area if you don't make efforts to control it. One is headers over windows. I used no headers over non bearing wall windows. I insulated bearing wall window headers rather than solid headers. Multiple windows rather than one large one helps minimize header size (or eliminate them if they are say 24" windows. Place joists and trusses on wall studs will eliminate double top plates.
It all adds up. Framers throw framing around like it's candy and it's often not necessary. Save the framing for the necessary stuff like cabinets, towel bars, handrails, etc. FRAME WISELY, don't waste.
>>One is headers over windows. I used no headers over non bearing wall windows.
I'm going to run that by my BI.
The house I'm building has a truss roof and only three doors on the gable ends. I'll have to look at my door and window schedule to be sure, but I believe the archy calls out structural headers over each of them. Might save a few $$ on lumber there and add to the insulation a little.
I'll just throw this out for giggles.
When I had the load calcs. done on this house, I had it figure with 2x4 framing in the walls and with 2x6 framing. The energy saving between the two was less than 6% a year. I have not figure the savings on 2x6 @ 2'oc vs. 2x4 @ 16" oc, so can't comment on that.
Maybe someone can give some hard number on that.
The archy was maybe being lazy ... or just extra conservative. I did have my BO comment that the header needs to support the weight of the wall above ... but that thought didn't really hold much water. Not much wall above most doors/windows.
Another option is to let in a single 2x6 on edge for short spans (I think the limit is 3 ft). No cripple stud required and more room for insulation.
2x6 on 16 oc is simply not a reasonable option. Why even bother? 24 oc and you can just about break even on material not to mention the labor for fewer pieces.
An R-19 wall loses 42% less energy than an R-11 wall ... just through the insulation. If you switch to 24 oc, the framing factor also drops. Employ more of the 'advanced framing' techniques discussed in this post and you gain even more (while saving in materials and labor). Not sure how much more you pay for R-19 over R-11, but I bet it ain't much. Labor is the same. I paid $1/sqft to insulate my house w/ R-21 batts (ceilings included). Really doesn't matter as the absolute cost compared to the whole house is probably a couple three hundred dollars; a fraction of 1 percent of the cost of a house. Seems a no brainer with all the benefits and few detriments. You do lose 2" of floor space, but most houses have excessive floor space (IMO) (including the one I just finished).
I'm a bit amazed at the fact that we are still having discussions like this. I used advanced framing techniques back in 1980 on a house. Why would anyone consider at least the minimum. If people worry about Sheetrock support, it is easy to switch to 5/8 drywall for more 'durability'.
My particular design may be the issue when comparing 2x4 and 2x6 construction. The majority of my insulation is in the 2" of rigid foam on the exterior. Air barriers and air sealing, plus the very minimum of ceiling pentrations, i.e. no can lights, Are also contributing factors to the predicted performance.
I have read most the threads on advanced framing techniques and appreciate you additional comments.
Thanks.
Advanced framing techniques?
I know my BI would understand, but for the ones in the outside towns, not so sure.
Both are ok here.
Other people have mentioned the headers over windows. Most of what I build is 2x6 walls, so I sandwich something between the two header boards - usually have some spare EPS or something similar on the jobsite to use between (actually usually on the outside) of the headers.
Jamie
all those things are allowed here, i dont do them, just hard to break the old school ways i was taught.
Woods favorite carpenter
OK in Iron County Utah, don't know yet about here in New Mexico.
Single top plate stacked on 2x6s @ 24" OK too.
OSB scraps make good DW backing, Piffins Simpson stock gets no more of my $ than necessary.
Joe H