I’m planning to install engineered wood flooring over concrete in my apartment in Charlestown, MA. The concrete is at-grade, and there are no obvious moisture problems when I look under the carpet.
- Should I install a sub-floor (i.e. tongue-and-grooved plywood) over a moisture barrier first, or is gluing down flooring right to the concrete the best way to go?
- What is the best material to use for a moisture barrier, and do I need one if I glue down?
Replies
The only bit of advice I can offer is find someway to soften the floor. My parents have engineered hardwood on slab in houston.
Its murder on the feet.
Can't suggest how, just an observation.
Tape down a piece of plastic (vapor barrier) to the concrete floor. Leave for a day and then check for any moisture between the plastic and floor. If any, you'll need a vapor barrier. Otherwise glue the material to the floor, but whatever you do, do NOT let the glue sit on the finished surface of the wood for any amount of time. The glue and finish will probable be eurathane and will bond together ruining the finish. A costly learned mistake.
Thanks Dave - what you're saying sounds like what I read on the Harris Tarkett website. I get the feeling putting a plywood subfloor over the concrete would be a waste of time and money.
One other question - I've heard people suggest some sort of padding between the concrete and engineered wood, to make it easier on the feet. Is it worth it? Or will the layer of adhesive help with that?
Read the directions.
Go here: http://www.edelweissflooring.com, and check out the Sika AcouBond installation method. It uses a 3mm or 5mm thick (your choice) foam pad punched with obround slots, through which you apply their urethane glue using a special tip on a caulk gun. The glued-down wood flooring is bonded to the concrete, can "float" and the pad makes for a resilient feel. I am using it in a spec house.
Interesting. Thanks for the tip.
Are you using the product because you’ve found hardwood glued right to concrete objectionable? I didn’t see prices on the website, but it looks expensive. I’m going to check out the elastic adhesives though – looks like they could be a cost-effective compromise.
I am using it because my wood floor is on a slab with hydronic heat in it. I want the elastic bond to allow the wood to move more freely when we move into and out of the heating season. The package of mat and adhesive is probably worth up to $2 psf, which may be as much as twice as much as doing a plywood underlay. In your case you may just want to glue down the flooring to the slab with an appropriate adhesive that goes down with a notched trowel.
Mark.. they do make a 2x2 t+g plywood underlayment(composit) with a dimpled rubber bottom , you dont nail it , just define the perimeters with p-t. and lay down and lock together itm works form carpet, wood ect unfortunatly I dont have the name in front of me but Ill go thru my files and give it you in a couple of days
a mistake in my billing? why, your right , it should be more!