Replies

1. 
   jet | Jul 31, 2002 07:57pm | #1

   You will have to move the header up to 86"+frame thickness+shim room about 1/2 to 1".   To do this you will have to gain access to the rough framing inside the wall. either from the inside or the outside of the house. Depending on the siding you have on the house will determine the best course of action. If you have brick or stone than you will have to cut to fit the new door frame.  Requiring special saws and tools best left to a pro. I sure would not mess with brick or stone walls. I've opened walls for doors before but shy away from masonry walls.

      Than it is a matter of copying the support frame for the header ie: double or triple studs on each end.   DO NOT just add to extend the stud height to support the new header.

2. 
   Piffin | Aug 01, 2002 04:06am | #2

   The long and short of it is that if you can't afford a new door, you can't afford to rebuld the wall to accomadate this one unless it is a non load bearing wall and you have a carpenter friend

   Excellence is its own reward!
1. 
   surfhatcher | Aug 01, 2002 04:15am | #3

   The rough frame for this non bearing wall has been reframed to accept a 36'' by 86'' door.  Is it feasible to alter my 36'' X 80'' door to a 36'' X 86'' size as the smaller sized door is an antique stain glass craftsman door that is perfect for our remodelled ext. and interior design?

1. 
   Piffin | Aug 01, 2002 05:07am | #4

   OK, if they already re-framed it when you remodeled, all you have to do is change out the jamb, trim it, hang the door, and install the locksets.

   Much easier.Excellence is its own reward!

2. 
   silver77 | Aug 01, 2002 07:28am | #5

   Hey SURFHATCHER,

   It's feasible if I read you correctly.

   1.Your existing door needs a 4" d.f. extension on top that when you're done, looks like it belongs there. Slightly bevelling the mating edges might help or in some way make the add-on work with the door's design. You could use biscuits to help with the glue-up if you're getting my drift here.

   2.The existing frame needs to be renoed to overall door size(86") plus 1/8" top margin and 1/4 +/-  bottom margin. If possible, duplicate the profile of the jambs on similar material and biscuit  the correct size pieces to top of dissassembled existing jambs. If you have room in the R.O., you could add 1/4" ply gussets to back of jambs to stiffen add-ons. Reassemble and you're there.

   That's the plan...the rest is finesse and depends on your inclination, motivation and style.

   I've done similar alterations. It's not that hard. Door first and jambs to fit. Be careful with your measuring and when you're done, check you're R.O. You can always tweek that if you need to... Hope this helps....

   Silver    

1. 
   Piffin | Aug 01, 2002 07:47am | #7

   Thanks for waking me up silver. I didn't realize that this was to be the SAME door, just bigger. I thought they had found a DF stained glass door at a garage sale and wanted to fit it into the house 'cause it perfectly fit the style if not the size.

   Now let me wake you up. Adding four inches will only make it 84", not the 86" they want. If it were me, I would add more like 2.5" at the top and 3.5" at the bottom to get the size.

   There would still be problems with the door, even tho' the fir is a somewhat stable wood, it can change with the seasons and since wood grows tangenitally instead of longitudinally, not having the stiles run the whole length but having the added rails run to the edge could cause adjustment difficulties. I would seal the wood well and use dowels with epoxy for the joinery or dado a large T&G or half lap joint.

   Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   bobl | Aug 01, 2002 03:22pm | #8

   Is 6" too small for a matching transom ?bobl          Volo Non Voleo      Joe's cheat sheet

3. 
   RalphWicklund | Aug 01, 2002 07:41am | #6

   I think what he is asking is if he can increase the size of his old door, adding six inches to the overall height of the door slab itself.

   Aside from the fact that the value of the door, if it is truly an antique, will hit zero, a scab on the bottom of the door will look just that - a scab.

   However, the door extension could be disguised with the addition of a full width brass kick plate on both sides, covering the scabbed on piece, as long as the new piece was securely fastened. Jointed, dowelled and glued with a couple of long lags for insurance might work. The new joint would only be visible on the edges of the door. The kick plates, screwed to both sides, would also add a small measure of stiffness.

   Yep. You can do it. Have at it.

4. 
   AmySwin | Aug 01, 2002 11:09pm | #9

   SH,

   I think you will devalue the door by trying to 'add on' to its height. Why isn't modification of the RO a consideration? You don't have to move the header to make it shorter, just crib up a 2x6 to have something to attach the jamb to. You can cover this work with trim worthy of your beautiful door. Just a thought to approach this a different way.

   Now, where is my board stretcher, I know I had one somewhere...

1. 
   jet | Aug 02, 2002 12:17am | #10

   "Now, where is my board stretcher, I know I had one somewhere..."

    Right next to the sky hook, beside the jug of elbow grease.